Monday, December 9, 2013

Classic Seafood Paella

An icon of Spain's cultural identity, paella done right is a truly spectactular dish: a thin blanket of saffron-scented  rice with a crackly, crunchy bottom crust (or socarrat), studded with fresh seafood.



  • 1/4 tsp. crumbled saffron threads




  • One 8-oz. bottle clam juice




  • 1 small yellow onion (4 oz.)




  • 1 very large or 2 small ripe tomatoes (12 oz. total)




  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 8 medium cloves garlic, 4 finely chopped, 4 peeled but whole




  • 1/2 tsp. sweet or hot pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • Kosher salt




  • 12 large (31 to 40 per lb.) shrimp, peeled with tail segment left intact and deveined (reserve the shells)




  • 1 lb. mussels, rinsed well




  • 1-3/4 cups Spanish bomba rice




  • 12 all-natural (dry-packed) sea scallops, side muscles removed




  • 1 medium lemon, sliced or cut in wedges




Make the saffron-clam broth

In a small saucepan set over medium-low heat, toast the saffron until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Off the heat, use the back of a small spoon to crush the saffron as finely as possible. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.



Make the sofrito

Halve and peel the onion. Grate the onion halves on the largest holes of a box grater to get about 1/3 cup of onion purée. Cut the tomato in half horizontally (not through the stem). Grate the tomato halves on the box grater all the way down to the skin to get about 1-1/4 cups juicy tomato pulp.


Set a 16-inch paella pan over medium-low heat. Add 1/4 cup of the oil and when it’s hot, add the grated onion. Cook the onion in the center of the pan, stirring occasionally, until it softens and darkens slightly, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato pulp, chopped and whole garlic, pimentón, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Gently cook the mixture in the center of the pan, stirring frequently, until it’s deep, dark red and very thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, being careful not to let it burn. If it starts to stick, deglaze by adding a little water and scraping the pan.



Make the shrimp-mussel broth

While the sofrito cooks, put the shrimp shells in a 4-quart saucepan. Stir over medium-high heat until they’re dry and pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil. Pick through the mussels to find the smallest twelve. Remove the beards if present, and reserve the mussels in the refrigerator. Add the remaining mussels to the boiling water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the broth into a 2-quart liquid measure, discarding the shells and mussels. Add the saffron-clam broth and 1-1/2 tsp. salt to the shrimp-mussel broth. Measure out 5-1/4 cups of the broth, reserving the remainder.



Make the paella

When the sofrito is done, add the rice to the paella pan and cook briefly over medium heat, stirring constantly to combine it with the sofrito, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the rice evenly in the pan. Increase the heat to high and slowly pour in the 5-1/4 cups broth—try not to disturb the rice so it stays in an even layer. From this point on, do not stir the rice. Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer, repositioning the pan as needed so it bubbles all the way to the edges (the bubbles at the edge will be much smaller than the bubbles at the center). Simmer vigorously until the rice appears at the level of the broth, about 8 minutes.


Arrange the reserved mussels in the pan, distributing them evenly. Lower the heat so the broth maintains a more moderate simmer, and after another 5 minutes, arrange the shrimp in the pan, pushing them into the rice. Continue simmering until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender but still firm(taste a few grains below the top layer), about 5 minutes more. The rice needs to simmer for roughly 18 minutes total. If at any point the broth seems to be evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat slightly, cover loosely with sheets of foil, or add a little more broth or water, 1/4 cup at a time as needed. Also, if the mussels or shrimp are still undercooked by the time the rice is done, cover loosely with foil for a few minutes to trap the heat and finish the cooking.


While the paella cooks, lightly season the scallops with salt. Heat the remaining 2 tsp. oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and cook until nicely browned on both sides and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.


When the rice is done, arrange the scallops on top of the paella. Check for any caramelized rice sticking to the pan by using a spoon to feel for resistance on the bottom of the pan. Check in several areas, especially in the center of the pan. If there is none, increase the heat to medium high and carefully cook, moving the pan around, until you hear a good deal of crackling and feel resistance, 1 to 2 minutes; if you smell burning, immediately remove the pan from the heat.


Remove the pan from the heat, cover with a clean dishtowel, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Arrange the lemon wedges around the perimeter of the pan.


Fennel, Pepper, and Saffron Stew with Garlic Toast

A generous handful of chickpeas and a sprinkling of Manchego cheese make this Spanish-inspired vegetarian stew hearty and satisfying.



  • 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for the bread




  • 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)




  • 1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (4 cups)




  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)




  • 1 small red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed and discarded; flesh thinly sliced lengthwise (1-1/2 cups)




  • 3 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 2 medium cloves garlic (1 minced, 1 whole)




  • 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño




  • One 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed




  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme




  • 1/8  tsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)




  • 2 pinches saffron




  • 1 bay leaf




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 4 baguette slices, 3/4 inch thick




  • 1/2 cup grated Manchego cheese




Heat the oil in a 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add 3-1/2 cups of water, the chickpeas, thyme, pimentón, saffron, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened slightly, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.


Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Broil, flipping once, until both sides are golden-brown, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oven and rub each slice with the whole clove of garlic.


Divide the stew among four wide, shallow bowls, and sprinkle with the Manchego. Serve each with a garlic toast.


Salt Cod and Crab Fritters

You can prepare the fritters ahead and then fry them when you’re ready to eat. Save the potato skins for Potato Skin Curls with Fresh Herbs.



  • 8 oz. dried salt cod




  • 1 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces




  • Kosher salt




  • 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 1 medium yellow onion, minced




  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro




  • 1 tsp. hot pepper sauce; more to taste




  • 1 large egg, separated




  • 8 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, drained well and picked over




  • Vegetable oil, for frying




The day before you plan to serve the fritters, rinse the salt cod well under cool running water to remove any surface salt. Put it in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times.


Bring a 4-quart saucepan filled with enough water to accommodate the cod (about 3 quarts) to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the soaked cod, and simmer gently until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain well and let cool. Remove and discard any bits of skin, bone, or spongy ends.


Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 Tbs. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl, and mash well. Set aside.


In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the mashed potatoes.


Pulse the cooked cod in a food processor until finely shredded. Add the cod to the potatoes, along with the cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well and season to taste with salt and more hot pepper sauce. Stir in the egg yolk and then gently fold in the crab. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold it into the cod mixture.


Pinch off walnut-size pieces of the cod mixture, roll them into balls, and set aside on a tray. (The recipe may be prepared up to this point 2 hours ahead; keep refrigerated.)


Heat 1-1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F on a deep fat/candy thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches of 4 or 5 until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt while still sizzling. Serve warm or at room temperature.


Spanish-Style Grilled Pepper Potato Salad

Grilled sweet bell peppers and lots of fresh garlic make this otherwise typical potato salad extraordinary.



  • 3 red, yellow, or orange bell peppers (or a mix), quartered lengthwise, stemmed, and seeded




  • Olive oil, for brushing




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 2 lb. red or yellow baby potatoes, halved (or quartered if large)




  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise




  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • 1 Tbs. minced garlic




Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the pepper quarters with oil and season with salt and pepper.


Put the potatoes in a 4-quart pot with 1 tsp. kosher salt and enough cool water to cover. Boil over high heat, partially covered, until just tender, about 8 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.


Meanwhile, grill the peppers skin-side down until grill marks form on one side, about 5 minutes. Flip the peppers and continue to grill until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes more. Let the peppers cool slightly, then cut into bite-size pieces and add to the potatoes.


In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, parsley, and garlic. Add to the potato mixture and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.


Mixed Green Salad with Olives, Serrano Ham, and Sherry Vinaigrette

The flavors of Spain--Serrano ham, sherry vinegar, manchego cheese--give this salad its character.



  • 9 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 2 Tbs. finely grated manchego




  • 1/4 tsp. paprika




  • 1/2 loaf rustic sourdough bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 4 cups)




  • 1-1/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar




  • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 5 oz. (5 cups) mixed baby greens




  • 3/4 cup pitted and halved medium green olives (such as manzanilla or picholine)




  • 12 very thin slices of Iberico or Serrano ham,  torn into bite-size pieces




Heat the oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl combine 6 Tbs. of the oil, the manchego, and paprika. Toss the bread cubes with the flavored oil. Arrange the bread on a baking sheet and bake in the center of the oven until crisp and golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool completely.


In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, mustard, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Gradually whisk in the remaining 3 Tbs. of oil.


In a large bowl, toss the greens with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Add the olives and croutons and toss. Divide the salad among the serving plates, top each with 3 torn slices of ham, and serve.


Caramelized Onion and Sherry Vinaigrette

Caramelized sweet onions are puréed to make a rich, flavorful base for this vinaigrette.



  • 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil




  • 1 small Vidalia or other sweet onion (about 10 oz.), thinly sliced




  • Kosher salt




  • 2 tsp. granulated sugar




  • 1/4 cup dry sherry




  • 2 Tbs. sherry vinegar




  • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard




  • 2 Tbs. chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes




  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme




  • Freshly ground black pepper




Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and 3/4 tsp. salt, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring, until starting to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the sugar and cook, stirring, until completely softened and golden-brown, 10 to 13 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat, add the sherry, and carefully return the pan to the stove. Raise the heat to medium high and cook, stirring, until the sherry has almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Transfer the onions to a cutting board, let cool for a couple of minutes, and then chop.


In a blender, purée about 1/4 cup of the onions with the vinegar and mustard. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil; the mixture will thicken. Transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in the remaining onions, sundried tomatoes, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste.


Manchego and Marcona Almond Pesto

Rich sheep’s milk cheese pairs well with roasted almonds. In this Spanish twist, the two come together with peppery arugula and lemon zest to make a bright tasting pesto that is perfect for linguine with shrimp, baked fish, or roasted cherry tomatoes and olives tossed with penne. For breakfast, try spreading this pesto on toast and topping it with a soft-boiled egg.



  • 3 oz. arugula (about 2 cups, packed)




  • 1 Tbs. lemon zest




  • 2 Tbs. lemon juice




  • 1/2 cup roasted Marcona almonds




  • 1/4 lb. Manchego, grated (1-1/2 cups)




  • 2 small garlic cloves




  • Sea salt, to taste




  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil




Tip:
Marcona almonds are available at many grocery and specialty food stores. If you can’t find them, substitute toasted almonds, preferably skinless.


Place everything but the olive oil in a food processor or blender and combine until roughly chopped. Then, with the blade running, slowly add the olive oil until the mixture is well combined. For a rough pesto, use a mortar and pestle.




DiBruno Bros. House of Cheese Cookbook