Food: December 2013

Monday, December 9, 2013

Classic Seafood Paella

An icon of Spain's cultural identity, paella done right is a truly spectactular dish: a thin blanket of saffron-scented rice with a crackly, crunchy bottom crust (or socarrat), studded with fresh seafood.

1/4 tsp. crumbled saffron threads

One 8-oz. bottle clam juice

1 small yellow onion (4 oz.)

1 very large or 2 small ripe tomatoes (12 oz. total)

1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

8 medium cloves garlic, 4 finely chopped, 4 peeled but whole

1/2 tsp. sweet or hot pimentón (smoked paprika)

Kosher salt

12 large (31 to 40 per lb.) shrimp, peeled with tail segment left intact and deveined (reserve the shells)

1 lb. mussels, rinsed well

1-3/4 cups Spanish bomba rice

12 all-natural (dry-packed) sea scallops, side muscles removed

1 medium lemon, sliced or cut in wedges

Make the saffron-clam broth

In a small saucepan set over medium-low heat, toast the saffron until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds. Off the heat, use the back of a small spoon to crush the saffron as finely as possible. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside to infuse.

Make the sofrito

Halve and peel the onion. Grate the onion halves on the largest holes of a box grater to get about 1/3 cup of onion purée. Cut the tomato in half horizontally (not through the stem). Grate the tomato halves on the box grater all the way down to the skin to get about 1-1/4 cups juicy tomato pulp.

Set a 16-inch paella pan over medium-low heat. Add 1/4 cup of the oil and when it’s hot, add the grated onion. Cook the onion in the center of the pan, stirring occasionally, until it softens and darkens slightly, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato pulp, chopped and whole garlic, pimentón, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Gently cook the mixture in the center of the pan, stirring frequently, until it’s deep, dark red and very thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed, being careful not to let it burn. If it starts to stick, deglaze by adding a little water and scraping the pan.

Make the shrimp-mussel broth

While the sofrito cooks, put the shrimp shells in a 4-quart saucepan. Stir over medium-high heat until they’re dry and pink, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 5 cups water and bring to a boil. Pick through the mussels to find the smallest twelve. Remove the beards if present, and reserve the mussels in the refrigerator. Add the remaining mussels to the boiling water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the broth into a 2-quart liquid measure, discarding the shells and mussels. Add the saffron-clam broth and 1-1/2 tsp. salt to the shrimp-mussel broth. Measure out 5-1/4 cups of the broth, reserving the remainder.

Make the paella

When the sofrito is done, add the rice to the paella pan and cook briefly over medium heat, stirring constantly to combine it with the sofrito, 1 to 2 minutes. Spread the rice evenly in the pan. Increase the heat to high and slowly pour in the 5-1/4 cups broth—try not to disturb the rice so it stays in an even layer. From this point on, do not stir the rice. Bring to a boil and then adjust the heat to maintain a vigorous simmer, repositioning the pan as needed so it bubbles all the way to the edges (the bubbles at the edge will be much smaller than the bubbles at the center). Simmer vigorously until the rice appears at the level of the broth, about 8 minutes.

Arrange the reserved mussels in the pan, distributing them evenly. Lower the heat so the broth maintains a more moderate simmer, and after another 5 minutes, arrange the shrimp in the pan, pushing them into the rice. Continue simmering until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender but still firm(taste a few grains below the top layer), about 5 minutes more. The rice needs to simmer for roughly 18 minutes total. If at any point the broth seems to be evaporating too quickly, reduce the heat slightly, cover loosely with sheets of foil, or add a little more broth or water, 1/4 cup at a time as needed. Also, if the mussels or shrimp are still undercooked by the time the rice is done, cover loosely with foil for a few minutes to trap the heat and finish the cooking.

While the paella cooks, lightly season the scallops with salt. Heat the remaining 2 tsp. oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallops and cook until nicely browned on both sides and just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

When the rice is done, arrange the scallops on top of the paella. Check for any caramelized rice sticking to the pan by using a spoon to feel for resistance on the bottom of the pan. Check in several areas, especially in the center of the pan. If there is none, increase the heat to medium high and carefully cook, moving the pan around, until you hear a good deal of crackling and feel resistance, 1 to 2 minutes; if you smell burning, immediately remove the pan from the heat.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover with a clean dishtowel, and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Arrange the lemon wedges around the perimeter of the pan.

Fennel, Pepper, and Saffron Stew with Garlic Toast

A generous handful of chickpeas and a sprinkling of Manchego cheese make this Spanish-inspired vegetarian stew hearty and satisfying.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for the bread

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)

1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (4 cups)

1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)

1 small red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed and discarded; flesh thinly sliced lengthwise (1-1/2 cups)

3 Tbs. tomato paste

2 medium cloves garlic (1 minced, 1 whole)

1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño

One 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1/8 tsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)

2 pinches saffron

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 baguette slices, 3/4 inch thick

1/2 cup grated Manchego cheese

Heat the oil in a 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add 3-1/2 cups of water, the chickpeas, thyme, pimentón, saffron, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened slightly, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Broil, flipping once, until both sides are golden-brown, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oven and rub each slice with the whole clove of garlic.

Divide the stew among four wide, shallow bowls, and sprinkle with the Manchego. Serve each with a garlic toast.

Salt Cod and Crab Fritters

You can prepare the fritters ahead and then fry them when you’re ready to eat. Save the potato skins for Potato Skin Curls with Fresh Herbs.

8 oz. dried salt cod

1 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes (3 or 4), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, minced

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

3 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro

1 tsp. hot pepper sauce; more to taste

1 large egg, separated

8 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, drained well and picked over

Vegetable oil, for frying

The day before you plan to serve the fritters, rinse the salt cod well under cool running water to remove any surface salt. Put it in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water several times.

Bring a 4-quart saucepan filled with enough water to accommodate the cod (about 3 quarts) to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the soaked cod, and simmer gently until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain well and let cool. Remove and discard any bits of skin, bone, or spongy ends.

Meanwhile, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add 1 Tbs. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer until tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain, transfer to a bowl, and mash well. Set aside.

In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 4 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add to the mashed potatoes.

Pulse the cooked cod in a food processor until finely shredded. Add the cod to the potatoes, along with the cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well and season to taste with salt and more hot pepper sauce. Stir in the egg yolk and then gently fold in the crab. In a small bowl, whisk the egg white to soft peaks and gently fold it into the cod mixture.

Pinch off walnut-size pieces of the cod mixture, roll them into balls, and set aside on a tray. (The recipe may be prepared up to this point 2 hours ahead; keep refrigerated.)

Heat 1-1/2 inches of vegetable oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F on a deep fat/candy thermometer. Fry the fritters in batches of 4 or 5 until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt while still sizzling. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Spanish-Style Grilled Pepper Potato Salad

Grilled sweet bell peppers and lots of fresh garlic make this otherwise typical potato salad extraordinary.

3 red, yellow, or orange bell peppers (or a mix), quartered lengthwise, stemmed, and seeded

Olive oil, for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 lb. red or yellow baby potatoes, halved (or quartered if large)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 Tbs. minced garlic

Prepare a medium-high (425°F to 450°F) gas or charcoal grill fire. Brush the pepper quarters with oil and season with salt and pepper.

Put the potatoes in a 4-quart pot with 1 tsp. kosher salt and enough cool water to cover. Boil over high heat, partially covered, until just tender, about 8 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.

Meanwhile, grill the peppers skin-side down until grill marks form on one side, about 5 minutes. Flip the peppers and continue to grill until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes more. Let the peppers cool slightly, then cut into bite-size pieces and add to the potatoes.

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, parsley, and garlic. Add to the potato mixture and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Mixed Green Salad with Olives, Serrano Ham, and Sherry Vinaigrette

The flavors of Spain--Serrano ham, sherry vinegar, manchego cheese--give this salad its character.

9 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. finely grated manchego

1/4 tsp. paprika

1/2 loaf rustic sourdough bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1-1/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 oz. (5 cups) mixed baby greens

3/4 cup pitted and halved medium green olives (such as manzanilla or picholine)

12 very thin slices of Iberico or Serrano ham, torn into bite-size pieces

Heat the oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl combine 6 Tbs. of the oil, the manchego, and paprika. Toss the bread cubes with the flavored oil. Arrange the bread on a baking sheet and bake in the center of the oven until crisp and golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool completely.

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, mustard, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Gradually whisk in the remaining 3 Tbs. of oil.

In a large bowl, toss the greens with enough vinaigrette to lightly coat. Add the olives and croutons and toss. Divide the salad among the serving plates, top each with 3 torn slices of ham, and serve.

Caramelized Onion and Sherry Vinaigrette

Caramelized sweet onions are puréed to make a rich, flavorful base for this vinaigrette.

1/2 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 small Vidalia or other sweet onion (about 10 oz.), thinly sliced

Kosher salt

2 tsp. granulated sugar

1/4 cup dry sherry

2 Tbs. sherry vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

2 Tbs. chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and 3/4 tsp. salt, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring, until starting to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the sugar and cook, stirring, until completely softened and golden-brown, 10 to 13 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat, add the sherry, and carefully return the pan to the stove. Raise the heat to medium high and cook, stirring, until the sherry has almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Transfer the onions to a cutting board, let cool for a couple of minutes, and then chop.

In a blender, purée about 1/4 cup of the onions with the vinegar and mustard. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil; the mixture will thicken. Transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in the remaining onions, sundried tomatoes, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste.

Manchego and Marcona Almond Pesto

Rich sheep’s milk cheese pairs well with roasted almonds. In this Spanish twist, the two come together with peppery arugula and lemon zest to make a bright tasting pesto that is perfect for linguine with shrimp, baked fish, or roasted cherry tomatoes and olives tossed with penne. For breakfast, try spreading this pesto on toast and topping it with a soft-boiled egg.

3 oz. arugula (about 2 cups, packed)

1 Tbs. lemon zest

2 Tbs. lemon juice

1/2 cup roasted Marcona almonds

1/4 lb. Manchego, grated (1-1/2 cups)

2 small garlic cloves

Sea salt, to taste

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Tip:

Marcona almonds are available at many grocery and specialty food stores. If you can’t find them, substitute toasted almonds, preferably skinless.

Place everything but the olive oil in a food processor or blender and combine until roughly chopped. Then, with the blade running, slowly add the olive oil until the mixture is well combined. For a rough pesto, use a mortar and pestle.

Halibut and Mussel Stew with Fennel, Peppers, and Saffron

This seafood stew, brimming with some of Spain's most celebrated flavors, is easily adaptable to serve meat-lovers and vegetarians alike: see the variation below to serve one vegetarian, or check out the completely meatless version of the stew.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more for the bread

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)

1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds removed, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (4 cups)

1 medium carrot, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise (3/4 cup)

1 small red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed and discarded; flesh thinly sliced lengthwise (1-1/2 cups)

3 Tbs. tomato paste

2 medium cloves garlic (1 minced, 1 whole)

1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Albariño

One 15.5-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1/8 tsp. pimentón (smoked paprika)

2 pinches saffron

1 bay leaf

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 baguette slices, 3/4 inch thick

11 oz. skinless halibut fillets or other firm white fish, cut into 1-inch chunks

13 mussels, scrubbed and debearded

Heat the oil in a 5-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add 3-1/2 cups of water, the chickpeas, thyme, pimentón, saffron, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened slightly, about 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Broil, flipping once, until both sides are golden-brown, about 4 minutes total. Remove from the oven and rub each slice with the whole clove of garlic.

Gently stir the halibut and mussels into the stew, cover, and simmer until all the mussels have opened and the fish is cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open. Ladle into wide, shallow bowls and serve with the garlic toasts.

Steamed Mussels with Chorizo, Smoked Paprika, and Garlicky Croutons

Just 30 minutes to a delicious dinner that could work on a weeknight or even a casual dinner party. The chorizo and mussels cook together, creating a briny, smoky broth that begs to be sopped up with garlic toast. Add a salad and you’re done.

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

6 cloves garlic, 2 minced and 4 thinly sliced

1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

Kosher salt

3/4 tsp. smoked sweet paprika

1 cup seeded and diced fresh tomato or one 14-1/2-oz. can diced tomatoes, drained

1 cup dry white wine

6 oz. Spanish-style chorizo, cut into

3/8-inch pieces (1-1/4 cups)

3 sprigs fresh thyme

4 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 baguette, cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine 3 Tbs. of the olive oil and the minced garlic in a small bowl and set aside.

Position an oven rack about 4 inches from the broiler element and heat the broiler on high.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 Tbs. olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sliced garlic and cook until the edges of the onion begin to brown, about 1 minute. Stir in the smoked paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, wine, chorizo, and thyme and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Stir in the mussels, coating them with the sauce mixture. Cover and cook, stirring 2 or 3 times, until the mussels have opened, 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, arrange the baguette slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and brush them with the garlic oil, dividing the bits of garlic evenly among the slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and then broil, rotating the baking sheet as needed, until evenly browned and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.

Discard any mussels that have not opened. Serve the mussels with the sauce and the croutons.

Asparagus Fries with Smoked Paprika Aïoli

Serve these surprising and delicious “fries” as an appetizer or with your favorite burger.

For the aïoli

4 large cloves garlic, unpeeled

2/3 cup mayonnaise

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. smoked paprika

1 tsp. fresh lemon juice, more to taste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the asparagus fries

3 cups vegetable oil

2 large eggs, beaten

1 medium lime, juiced

3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup panko

1 lb. thick asparagus spears, trimmed, peeled, and halved crosswise

Make the aïoli

Put the garlic in a small saucepan, add cold water to cover by least 1/2 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as the water boils, drain and repeat the process once more. Rinse the garlic with cold water to cool and then peel and mince the cloves.

In a medium bowl, whisk the poached garlic with the mayonnaise, olive oil, smoked paprika, and lemon juice until smooth. Add more lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to meld the flavors.

Make the asparagus fries

In a 3-quart saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, heat the oil over medium-high heat to 375°F.

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with the lime juice and 2 Tbs. water.

Put the flour on a small plate and season generously with salt and pepper. Put the panko on another small plate. Dredge the asparagus in the flour and shake off any excess. Dip the asparagus in the egg mixture and then the panko to coat. Working in batches, fry the asparagus until golden-brown, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain briefly. Sprinkle with salt and serve with the smoked paprika aïoli.

Cauliflower Soup with Marcona Almond and Piquillo Pepper Relish

If you can find it, use orange cauliflower; it won’t change the soup’s flavor but will give it a lovely golden color.

Kosher salt

1-3/4 lb. (6 to 7 cups) cauliflower florets (from 1 medium head)

4 Tbs. unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup Marcona or regular almonds (roasted and salted), finely chopped

1/4 cup jarred piquillo peppers or roasted red peppers, rinsed, seeded, and finely diced

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh mint

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Bring 6 cups water to a boil in a 4-quart pot over high heat. Add 1 tsp. salt, then add the cauliflower and boil until very tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain the cauliflower in a colander set over a large bowl to catch the cooking liquid and let the cauliflower cool slightly.

Working in 2 batches, purée each batch of cauliflower with 2 cups of the cooking liquid and 2 Tbs. of the butter in a blender until very smooth. Season to taste with salt. (The soup can be made up to 4 hours ahead.)

In a small bowl, combine the almonds, peppers, oil, mint, garlic, and pepper flakes Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The relish can be made up to 1 hour ahead.)

When ready to serve, gently reheat the soup over medium-low heat. Garnish each serving with a spoonful of the almond relish.

Spanish Olive Oil Tortas with Orange-Blossom Water and Aniseed

Those Spanish tortas de aceite—crisp, orange-anise-flavored olive oil crackers handmade in Seville—have become a common sight in many upscale grocery stores. The tortas come individually wrapped in wax paper in sets of six, and are pretty pricey (not to mention addictive). If you want to supply your habit in a thriftier manner, this recipe yields rich, flaky tortas similar those at the grocery store, but they aren’t nearly as greasy or expensive.

7 Tbs. warm (120°F) water

6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish

2 tsp. active dry yeast

Zest of 1 organic orange (about 1 Tbs.)

1-1/2 tsp. orange-blossom water

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling

1/2 tsp. fine sea salt

6 Tbs. sugar

2 tsp. aniseed

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper. In a small bowl, whisk together the warm water, olive oil, yeast, orange zest, and orange-blossom water.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the olive oil mixture and mix using the dough hook attachment on medium speed for 2 minutes or knead on a lightly floured surface for 5 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rise and relax in a warm place for 30 minutes.

Divide the dough into four equal-size balls. Dust a work surface and a rolling pin (a dowel-type tapered rolling pin works best) with flour and divide one ball of dough into six equal-size balls about the size of an unshelled walnut. Roll out the balls into 3-1/2- to 4-inch rounds, picking up the dough and rotating it a quarter turn after each stroke so that the dough does not stick and the cracker will be an even round(ish) shape. If the dough springs back as you roll, let it rest and start rolling out a second small ball of dough. (As the first ball rests, the gluten will relax and it will be easier to work with.) Transfer the rounds to the prepared baking sheets and repeat with the remaining dough balls (you will need to bake the crackers in batches).

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and aniseed. Sprinkle a scant 1 tsp. of the sugar mixture over each cracker and tamp down lightly with the bottom of a measuring cup. Prick the crackers all over with a fork or comb and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets once from top to bottom and from back to front. Cool the crackers on racks and store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Sautéed Spinach with White Beans and Pine Nuts

This side dish is a fine partner for roast pork or fish. For a simple vegetarian meal for two, serve a larger portion topped with a poached or fried egg. If you can’t find small white beans, you can use cannellini beans.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for garnish

2 Tbs. pine nuts

1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced

One 15.5-oz. can small white beans, rinsed and drained

1 lb. fresh spinach, trimmed and washed

Kosher salt

1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil (about 15 leaves), thinly sliced

1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, pine nuts, and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the pine nuts are golden and the garlic is fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the beans and cook until heated through, about 1 minute.

Add the spinach and 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, turning with tongs, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the basil, lemon zest, and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.

Lamb Shoulder Chops with Smoky Red Pepper-Shallot Butter

Lamb shoulder stands up well to the Spanish-influenced spice rub of garlic, oregano, cumin, and smoked paprika in this recipe. Serve with crusty bread to sop up the buttery sauce.

2 medium cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

Kosher salt

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano

1-1/2 tsp. cumin seed, toasted and coarsely ground

1/2 plus 1/8 tsp. sweet or hot pimentón (smoked paprika)

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

4 (3/4- to 1-inch-thick) lamb shoulder blade or arm chops (about 2 lb. total)

2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened

1-1/2 Tbs. finely chopped shallot

1-1/2 Tbs. chopped piquillo pepper (or roasted red pepper)

1 Tbs. sherry vinegar, warmed slightly

Combine the garlic and 1 tsp. salt in a small mortar and grind to a smooth paste with the pestle. Add the oregano, cumin, and 1/2 tsp. of the pimentón; work with the pestle to combine. Stir in the olive oil to make a smooth paste. Pat the lamb chops dry and rub the paste evenly over all of them. Let sit at room temperature for about an hour.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the butter, shallot, piquillo pepper, vinegar, and the remaining 1/8 tsp. pimentón. Season to taste with salt and set aside.

Heat two 10- to 12-inch heavy-duty skillets over medium-high heat. Arrange two chops in each skillet and cook until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip and sear on the second side for another minute. Lower the heat to medium and continue to cook the chops until the internal temperature registers 125°F for medium rare, 4 to 6 minutes more. (If you nick the thick part of a chop to peek inside, it should be rosy but not bloody.) For medium doneness, cook to 135°F, 6 to 8 minutes more.

Transfer the chops to a large platter or 4 dinner plates and immediately smear each with some of the butter. The heat of the chops should melt just enough of the butter to lightly sauce the meat. Let the chops rest for 3 to 5 minutes before serving.

Grilled Watermelon Gazpacho with Lime Crema

Watermelon, grilled to enhance its sweetness, balances the smoky-spicy kick of chipotle powder in this refreshing summer soup.

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp. chipotle chile powder

3 lb. watermelon (about 1/8 of 1 large melon), sliced 3/4-inch thick

Kosher salt

1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped

3/4 cup chopped English cucumber, peeled

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 Tbs. chopped shallot

1/2 medium serrano chile, seeded and chopped

3-1/2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1/4 cup crème fraîche

Prepare a high charcoal or gas grill fire. In a small bowl, combine 1 Tbs. of the oil with the chipotle powder. Brush the watermelon slices with the chipotle oil and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt. Grill the watermelon until nicely charred on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, remove the rind, seed if necessary, and coarsely chop the flesh.

In a blender, combine the watermelon flesh, tomato, cucumber, cilantro, shallot, serrano chile, and the remaining 1 Tbs. olive oil. Blend until almost smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in 1-1/2 Tbs. of the lime juice, the red wine vinegar, and season to taste with salt. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, about 4 hours.

When ready to serve, combine the crème fraîche with the remaining 2 Tbs. lime juice in a small bowl. Taste the soup and correct the seasoning, if necessary. Ladle the soup into cups and garnish with a drizzle of the lime-crème fraîche mixture.

Jícama Slaw with Carrots and Red Peppers

Jícama is a crisp, juicy, slightly sweet tuber that looks like a squashed softball with rough, brown skin. After the jícama is peeled, the raw flesh is great in salads, salsas, and slaws, like this crunchy, tangy version. It’s just the thing to cool your mouth when you’ve been eating spicy tacos.

1 medium jícama (about 2 lb.)

4 medium carrots

1/2 medium red bell pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

1 tsp. celery seed

Sea salt

Cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)

With a chef's knife, cut the skin and roots off the jícama. Using a mandoline or the knife, cut the jícama into thin 1-inch-long matchsticks. Peel and grate the carrots. Core and thinly slice the pepper; cut the slices into 1-inch-long pieces. In a medium serving bowl, toss the jícama, pepper, and carrots with the olive oil, lime juice, celery seed, and salt to taste. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

Before serving, retoss the slaw, as the dressing will have settled on the bottom of the bowl.

Skirt Steak Tacos with Spicy Sour Cream

Ground chipotle chiles add a fiery kick to the creamy sauce for these tacos, and you can find it right in the supermarket spice section. Add bowls of fresh shredded lettuce, ripe tomatoes, and buttery avocado and let everyone dress their own tacos.

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 tsp. ground chipotle chile

Kosher salt

1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp. ground cumin

Freshly ground pepper

1 lb. skirt steak (3/4 inch thick)

Eight 6-inch flour or corn tortillas

1/4 small head iceberg lettuce, shredded (2 cups)

2 medium ripe tomatoes (8 oz. each), cored and chopped (2 cups)

1 medium ripe avocado, pitted, peeled, and sliced 1/4 inch thick

1/3 cup chopped red onion

Prepare a medium-hot charcoal or gas grill fire. Combine the sour cream, chipotle, and 1/4 tsp. salt in a small bowl. Set aside at room temperature to let the flavors meld.

In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, cumin, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Rub this mixture on all sides of the steak. Grill the steak, covered, flipping once, until medium rare, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the steak to a large plate to rest for at least 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, warm the tortillas on the grill for about 30 seconds per side. Slice the steak across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Fill each tortilla with some of the steak, lettuce, tomato, avocado, and onion. Drizzle with the sauce and serve.

Chiles Rellenos

Fried in a fluffy batter and served with a roasted tomato sauce, these stuffed poblano chiles are a Mexican classic. The filling is based on Cuban picadillo, a blend of ground beef, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and raisins.

For the filling

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (6 medium cloves)

1 medium white or yellow onion, finely chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, finely chopped

1-1/4
lb. ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped (about 2-1/4 cups) or one
28-oz. can whole plum tomatoes, drained and finely chopped

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican

1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon

Kosher salt

1 lb. 80% lean ground beef or ground turkey

1/2 cup slivered almonds

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup lower-salt chicken or beef broth

For the sauce

1 medium yellow onion, quartered lengthwise

2 lb. ripe tomatoes, cored and halved horizontally

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 tsp. finely chopped garlic (4 medium cloves)

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican

Kosher salt

For the chiles

8 large poblano chiles

4 cups vegetable oil

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) all-purpose flour

Kosher salt

5 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

Make the filling

In a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the onion and cook until pale golden, about 5 minutes.

Add the green pepper and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, and 2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the meat and stir, breaking up any lumps. Add the almonds and raisins and stir occasionally until the meat is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Make the sauce

Position a rack 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Put the onion and tomatoes cut side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and broil, turning the onion once or twice, until charred and softened, about 8 minutes.

Pull off the tomato skins with tongs. Blend the tomatoes and onion to a coarse purée in a blender or food processor.

Heat the oil in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Stir in the tomato purée, cumin, oregano, and 2 tsp. salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate and pool, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and keep warm.

Roast the chiles

Wrap the chile stems in foil to keep them from charring and falling off.

For a gas stove, arrange the chiles over a lit burner (you can fit two to three per burner). For an electric stove, arrange all chiles on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and position it 4 inches below a hot broiler. As each side blackens and blisters, turn the chiles with tongs until they’re blistered all over.

Immediately put the chiles in a large bowl, cover, and let steam for 15 minutes. Remove the skin with your fingers or a paper towel. (It’s OK if you can’t remove all of it.)

Remove the foil from the stems, and slit the chiles lengthwise, starting about 1/2 inch from the stem and ending about 1/2 inch from the point. Remove the seed core, being careful not to damage the stem.

Stuff and fry the chiles

Video:
Watch Shelley Wiseman stuff and fry the chiles.

Spoon about 1/2 cup of the filling into each chile and then press the cut edges together. (If the chiles tear, press the torn edges together.) Arrange the chiles on a tray or baking sheet.

Position a rack in the center of the oven, put a paper-towel-lined large rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 200°F.

Clip a deep-fry or probe thermometer to an 11- or 12-inch straight-sided sauté pan or cast-iron skillet. Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat to 350°F.

Meanwhile, mix the flour and 2 tsp. salt in a shallow bowl. In a wide bowl, beat the egg whites and 1/2 tsp. salt with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft peaks form. On low speed, add the yolks one at a time, and beat just until they’re fully incorporated.

Working in batches of 2 or 3, hold a chile by the stem, lightly dredge it in the flour, and then dip it in the egg batter, using a silicone spatula to coat all sides. Lower the chile gently into the hot oil. Fry until one side is golden, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon and tongs, carefully turn the chiles and fry until the other side is golden, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to the paper-towel-lined baking sheet in the oven to stay warm while you finish the remaining chiles.

Serve the chiles on a pool of the sauce.

Tropical Mango Sorbet

Papaya and pineapple juice build on the clean, sweet flavor of mango in this sorbet, while a splash of coconut milk smoothes its texture. If papayas aren’t readily available or in season, just add another mango.

4 mangos (about 3 lb.), pitted and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 4 cups)

1 medium papaya (about 3/4 lb.), cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1-1/2 cups)

1 cup pineapple juice

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup coconut milk

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

Working in batches if necessary, purée all of the ingredients in a blender until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until cold (about 2 hours). Freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the sorbet to an airtight container and freeze overnight to finish setting. Take the sorbet out of the freezer and let it soften for about 5 minutes before serving. It will keep in the freezer for about two weeks.

Boozy Berry-Topped Tres Leches Cake

This take on the classic Mexican tres leches cake is generously topped with tequila-spiked whipped cream and sweet, juicy summer berries.

For the cake:

Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

1-1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. kosher salt

5 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup whole milk

3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

For the soaking liquid:

1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk

1 12-oz. can evaporated milk

1/2 cup heavy cream

Pinch kosher salt

For the topping:

2-1/2 cups heavy cream

3 Tbs. gin or tequila

2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2 cups raspberries

2 cups sliced strawberries

1 tsp. finely grated lemon or lime zest

Bake the cake:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch Pyrex baking dish or a nonreactive metal pan. Line the bottom of the baking dish or pan with parchment and lightly butter the parchment.

Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl and set aside.

Separate the eggs, putting the whites in a medium bowl and the yolks in a large bowl. With an electric mixer, beat the yolks with 3/4 cup of the sugar on medium speed until the mixture is pale and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the milk and vanilla and beat until combined, 1 minute more.

Clean and dry the beaters and then beat the egg whites, gradually increasing the speed to high, until they reach soft peaks, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a stream, continuing to beat on high, until you reach firm but not dry peaks, 1 to 2 minutes more. Whisk a third of the dry ingredients into the yolk mixture until thoroughly combined. Gently fold in a third of the egg whites with a rubber spatula. Fold in the remaining dry ingredients and egg whites, alternately, in two more batches each, until fully incorporated.

Pour the batter into the prepared dish or pan and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan on a rack for 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto the rack, remove the parchment, and let cool completely.

Return the cake to the baking dish or pan (the cake will soak up more of the liquid if returned to the pan it was baked in), or invert it onto a rimmed platter.

Soak the cake:

In a 2-quart saucepan, stir together the condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, and salt until the condensed milk is well blended. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring to avoid scorching, until it begins to bubble around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof 4-cup measuring cup.

With a toothpick, prick the cake to the bottom in 1/2-inch intervals. Pour the soaking liquid slowly over the cake, starting at the edges and pausing to let it soak in before adding more. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the cake is well chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Top the cake:

In a large bowl, beat the heavy cream with an electric mixer on medium speed. When it begins to thicken, slowly add the gin or tequila, sugar and vanilla and continue to beat just until it holds firm peaks, 3 to 4 minutes (be careful not to over-beat). Spread the whipped cream all over the top of the cake. In a medium bowl, toss the raspberries, strawberries, and lemon or lime zest. Spoon the berries over the whipped cream and serve.

Jícama, Radish, and Pickled Shallot Salad with Feta

Bright, zesty, and refreshing, this crunchy salad can be served over tacos, alongside black beans and rice, or eaten all on its own.

2 small shallots, cut in half crosswise and then thinly sliced lengthwise

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

Kosher salt

5 medium radishes, trimmed, quartered lengthwise and then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices

1 medium jícama (about 1 lb), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus 1 Tbs. cilantro leaves

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. honey

1/4 tsp. finely grated lime zest

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of cayenne

2 Tbs. grapeseed oil

1/2 cup crumbled feta

In a small bowl, combine the shallots with the red wine vinegar and 1/4 tsp. salt; let sit until the shallots have mellowed and turned a light pink, about 15 minutes. Strain the shallots and discard the liquid.

In a medium bowl, toss the shallots, radishes, jícama, cilantro, and a pinch of salt.

In a small bowl, whisk the lime juice, honey, lime zest, 1/4 tsp. salt, a few grinds of black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. Gradually whisk in the grapeseed oil.

Toss the dressing with the vegetables. Fold in the feta and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Tex-Mex Grilled Shrimp Tacos

Soy sauce, pineapple juice, and lime juice may sound like an unusual combination, but it’s actually a very common Tex-Mex fajita marinade. These tacos are excellent dressed with sliced avocado and tangy tomatillo salsa.

For the shrimp

48 extra-jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per lb.; about 2-1/2 lb. total), peeled and deveined

3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for the grill

Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup pineapple juice

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1 medium lime

To serve the tacos

15 6-inch fresh corn tortillas, preferably homemade

Toppings of your choice, such as: sliced avocado, tomatillo salsa, shredded iceberg lettuce, crumbled queso fresco, chopped ripe tomatoes, lime wedges

Grill the shrimp

Soak sixteen 12-inch wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare a high charcoal or gas grill fire.

Spear 6 of the shrimp through their head and tail ends with one of the skewers; then spear the same six shrimp with another skewer about a third of the way from their back sides. Repeat with the remaining shrimp and skewers. Brush the shrimp with the olive oil and then season with 2 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper.

In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, pineapple juice, and garlic. Finely grate the zest from the lime and add the zest to the soy sauce mixture; juice the lime and add the juice and the juiced peels. Set aside 3 Tbs. of the mixture in another small bowl.

Oil the grill grates. Put the shrimp on the grill in a single layer. Cook, covered, turning once and brushing a few times with the larger amount of soy sauce mixture, until just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes.

To serve

Brush the shrimp with the reserved soy sauce mixture, remove the shrimp from the skewers, and serve with the tortillas, letting guests assemble their own tacos with the toppings of their choice.

Guacamole with Roasted Chile, Cumin, and Feta

Rather than the expected jalapeño, this recipe uses roasted poblano or New Mexico chile for a more rounded flavor. A pinch of cumin, crumbled feta, and crisp slivered radishes flatter the avocado as well.

1 small fresh green New Mexico or poblano chile

1 medium lime

3 medium firm-ripe avocados (6 to 7 oz. each), pitted and peeled

3 medium scallions, white and light-green parts only, chopped

5 Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro

1/4 tsp. ground cumin, preferably freshly ground

Kosher salt

1/2 cup medium-diced fresh tomato

2 radishes, slivered (about 2 Tbs.)

1 Tbs. crumbled feta

Store bought or homemade corn tortilla chips, for serving

On a gas stove, turn a burner to high and set the chile directly over the flame, turning it with tongs, until completely charred, 5 to 8 minutes. Alternatively, on an electric stove, heat the broiler on high and char the chile on a baking sheet placed directly under the broiler. Put the chile in a bowl, cover, and set aside to steam and loosen the skin. When cool enough to handle, peel, seed, and finely chop.

Finely grate the zest from the lime and then squeeze the juice. Put the avocado in a bowl and coarsely mash with a potato masher. Stir in the lime zest and 2 Tbs. of the lime juice along with the scallions, cilantro, cumin, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Season to taste with salt and lime juice, and then fold in the chile and tomato.

Heap the guacamole into a bowl and garnish it with the radishes and feta. Serve with tortilla chips.

Tequila-Grapefruit Cocktails

This cocktail is a riff on the classic combination of tequila and grapefruit soda known as a Paloma. Here, fresh grapefruit juice and grapefruit-infused tequila add bright, citrusy flavor to the drink, while elderflower liqueur adds a touch of sweetness.

4 fl. oz. (1/2 cup) grapefruit-infused silver (blanco) tequila (see note below), preferably Partida (or Don Julio Blanco or El Mejor)

2 fl. oz. (1/4 cup) fresh grapefruit juice

1-1/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) St-Germain elderflower liqueur

1 fl. oz. (2 Tbs.) fresh lime juice

Club soda

Grapefruit twists or lime wedges, for garnish

Put the tequila, grapefruit juice, St-Germain, and lime juice in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Cover and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Strain into 2 double old fashioned glasses filled with fresh ice, and top with a splash of club soda. Garnish with a twist or a wedge of lime.

Note: To make the grapefruit-infused tequila, shave the zest from 2 grapefruits with a vegetable peeler. Add the zest to a 750-ml bottle of silver tequila (pour off enough tequila to make room for the zest). Chill in the refrigerator for at least 3 days and up to 2 weeks. Remove the zest after 2 weeks. The tequila will keep indefinitely once the zest is removed.

Avocado Frozen Yogurt

Rich, creamy, and the prettiest pale green, this frozen treat is a surprisingly delicious showcase for avocados.

2 cups whole milk

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

4 large egg yolks

1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

1 Tbs. loosely packed finely grated lemon zest

1/2 Tbs. loosely packed finely grated lime zest

2 medium firm-ripe avocados (6 to 7 oz. each), pitted, peeled, and cut into large chunks

2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbs. fresh lime juice

In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the milk and sugar over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it just comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. Stir in the vanilla.

Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl with several inches of ice water. Put a smaller metal bowl in the ice water and set a fine strainer on top.

In a medium bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks. Pour about 1/2 cup of the milk mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from curdling. Pour the egg mixture into the saucepan with the milk mixture and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard thickens slightly, enough to coat the back of the spoon, 4 to 8 minutes. Immediately pour the mixture through the strainer into the small bowl. Stir in the yogurt and zests and cool the custard completely by stirring it over the ice bath.

In a blender or food processor, purée the avocado with the lemon and lime juices and about 1 cup of the cooled custard until smooth. Fold the avocado mixture back into the custard. The mixture should be thick, creamy, and pale green. Freeze the custard in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the frozen yogurt to an airtight container and freeze until solid, at least 4 hours.

Cafe Con Tres Leches Cake (Coffee Tres Leches Cake)

This coffee-spiked dessert tastes like a delicious cross between classic Mexican tres leches cake and tiramisu.

For the cake:

Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan

4-1/2 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour

1-1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. kosher salt

5 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup whole milk

3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

For the soaking liquid:

1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup evaporated milk

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup strong brewed coffee

Pinch kosher salt

For the topping:

1 tsp. instant coffee

2-1/2 cups heavy cream

2 Tbs. confectioners’ sugar

1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Chocolate curls or toasted slivered almonds, for garnish

Bake the cake:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter the bottom and sides of a 9x13-inch Pyrex baking dish or a nonreactive metal pan. Line the bottom of the baking dish or pan with parchment and lightly butter the parchment.

Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl and set aside.

Return the cake to the baking dish or pan (the cake will soak up more of the liquid if returned to the pan it was baked in), or invert it onto a rimmed platter.

Soak the cake:

In a 2 quart saucepan, stir together the condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, coffee, and salt until the condensed milk is well blended. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring to avoid scorching, until it begins to bubble around the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into a heatproof 4 cup measuring cup.

Top the cake:

In a large bowl, stir the instant coffee into 2 Tbs. of the heavy cream until dissolved. Add the remaining cream and beat with an electric mixer on medium speed. When it begins to thicken, slowly add the sugar and vanilla and continue to beat just until it holds firm peaks, 3 to 4 minutes (be careful not to overbeat). Spread the whipped cream all over the top of the cake, sprinkle the chocolate curls or almonds over the top, and serve.

Margarita

Margaritas are often made with an orange liqueur like Cointreau, which can make them very sweet. In this version, though, freshly squeezed lime juice—never bottled—has plenty of citrus flavor, and agave syrup sweetens and complements the agave flavors in the tequila. A salted rim is not necessary, but many people like it because it takes the burn out of the alcohol.

1 lime wheel, with a slit cut at the center

Kosher salt (optional)

1-1/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) 100% agave tequila blanco (silver), such as Patrón or Milagro

1-1/2 fl. oz. (3 Tbs.) fresh lime juice

3/4 fl. oz. (1-1/2 Tbs.) light agave nectar

For a salted rim (optional), run the slit of the lime wheel around the rim of a chilled rocks glass (or a chilled martini glass if you prefer no ice) to moisten, then dip the rim into a small dish of kosher salt.

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the tequila, lime juice, agave nectar, and 3/4 fl. oz (1-1/2 Tbs.) water. Put the lid on the shaker and make sure it has a good seal.

Shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker is frosty, 10 to 15 seconds. Strain into the prepared glass over fresh ice (if desired). Garnish with the lime wheel and serve.

Tequila-Champagne Sangria

This spiked white sangria is one of several served at El Real Tex-Mex Café in Houston. The sparkling wine and soda give it a gentle effervescence, rather than a fierce fizz.

3 medium navel oranges, sliced into thin rounds

4 medium lemons, sliced into thin rounds

4 medium limes, sliced into thin rounds

6 large fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup light agave nectar (or simple syrup)

3 fl. oz. (6 Tbs.) plata (silver) tequila

1 750-ml bottle dry white wine, chilled

1 750-ml bottle sparkling wine, chilled

2 cups lemon-lime soda

Put the oranges, lemons, limes, and mint in a large plastic container. Pour the agave nectar over the fruit. Add the tequila and mix gently. Add the white wine, cover, and let the mixture marinate in the refrigerator for a few hours.

Put the fruit mixture in a large drink dispenser or divide among 2 large pitchers. Top off with the sparkling wine and the lemon-lime soda.

Tostadas with Mashed Black Beans

When we have a pozole party, we always serve whole tostadas spread thick with refried beans along with the pozole. When frying the tortillas for the tostadas, cook them a little darker than you think is good; it’s important for the tortilla to cook through to its core or it won’t stay crisp. Plus, the toasty flavor that results is more authentic.

1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed

1 Tbs. mild olive oil

1/2 tsp. onion powder

1/4 tsp. garlic powder

1/4 tsp. ground chipotle

1/4 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican

6 good-quality corn tortillas

Safflower or other light vegetable oil

Mexican crema or sour cream (optional)

In a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat, combine the beans, olive oil, onion and garlic powders, chipotle, oregano, and 1/4 cup water. Cook, mashing with a potato masher, until the beans are hot, well mashed, and thickened to a spreadable consistency, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

Stack the tortillas 3 at a time and prick through the stack in several places with a fork to prevent the tortillas from puffing up as they fry. Add enough oil to an 8- to 9 inch skillet to measure 1/2 inch deep (about 1 cup) and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add a tortilla and cook, flipping 3 to 4 times with tongs and gently holding the tortilla under the oil until it’s crisped and golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes total. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining tortillas, adding more oil as necessary.

Serve the tostadas slightly warm or at room temperature, each spread with some of the beans and drizzled with a little crema or a dollop of sour cream, if you like.

Chilled Poblano Soup

This soup should have a little kick to it, but you have to be careful with poblanos because they can sometimes pack a wallop. To be sure you don’t overdo the heat, reserve the ribs from the peppers and add them back only if you want more heat.Read the article "Chill Out" for tips on giving your soup great flavor and smooth texture.

1-3/4 lb. poblano chiles (5 to 8, depending on size)

3 Tbs. olive oil

2 medium white onions, chopped (about 3 cups)

6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped (3 Tbs.)

Kosher salt

3 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup vegetable oil

2 6-inch corn tortillas

Roast the poblanos over a gas burner, a hot grill fire, or on a foil-lined baking sheet under the broiler, turning with tongs, until blackened or blistered all over, 6 to 10 minutes. Immediately put them in a bowl, cover, and let steam for 15 minutes. Once cooled, peel the skin, then split open, remove the stems, seeds, and ribs (reserve the ribs), and coarsely chop.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the poblanos and 2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the chicken broth, bring to a simmer, and cook for 3 minutes.

In a blender, purée about one-third of the soup until very smooth, about 2 minutes.

Set a medium-mesh strainer over a large bowl and force the purée through it with a silicone spatula. Repeat with the rest of the soup in 2 more batches. Taste, and if you would like more heat, reblend a cup of the purée with the reserved poblano ribs to taste, then stir it back into the purée. Stir in the cream and the remaining 1 cup chicken broth, thinning with additional chicken broth, if necessary. Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.

Heat the vegetable oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat until shimmering hot. Stack the tortillas on top of each other and cut in half. Stack the halves and cut crosswise into very thin strips. Working in 2 batches, fry the tortilla strips, turning them with a slotted spoon, until golden, about 1-1/2 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper towels to drain and sprinkle with salt.

Just before serving, season the soup to taste with additional salt, if needed. Serve garnished with the tortilla strips.