Caramel Soufflés with Ginger Crème Anglaise

Flavoring the pastry cream with a simple homemade caramel makes for a sophisticated departure from the usual chocolate soufflés. If you like, you can pair the soufflés with raspberry compote or blood orange sauce instead of the ginger crème anglaise.

For the ginger crème anglaise

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
  
  


• 
  
  1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large egg yolks
  
  

For the ramekins

• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  

For the caramel pastry cream

• 
  
  1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream, heated
  
  


• 
  
  4 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. cornstarch
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  

For the meringue

• 
  
  8 large egg whites, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (1/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar; more for dusting
  
  

Make the crème anglaise

In a 2-quart saucepan, heat the cream, sugar, vanilla bean seeds and pod, and ginger over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until simmering, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for up to 30 minutes; the longer it sits, the more intense the ginger flavor will be.

Whisk the yolks in a small bowl until smooth. Return the cream mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk a quarter of the cream into the yolks to warm them. Using a wooden spoon, stir the yolk mixture into the cream. Continue stirring over medium heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon and an instant-read thermometer registers 170°F to 175°F, about 2 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. If you want to serve it cold, cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until chilled, about 2 hours.

Prepare the ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to
375°F. Generously butter eight 6-oz. ramekins (3-1/2 inches in diameter
and about 2 inches deep). Coat the insides with sugar, tapping out any
excess.

Make the pastry cream

Sprinkle the brown sugar in an even layer on the bottom of a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, undisturbed, until partially melted, about 3 minutes. Whisk until the sugar melts and begins to darken, 1 to 2 minutes more; remove from the heat.

Carefully whisk in the heavy cream; the caramel will sputter and possibly harden. If it hardens, stir over low heat until melted again. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, milk, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk half of the hot caramel into the egg mixture, and then whisk the egg mixture into the pan of caramel. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles, about 4 minutes; it's OK if it's lumpy at this point. Continue simmering while whisking until smooth and very thick, about 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla . Transfer to a large bowl set in a larger bowl of ice water and whisk often until cooled to room temperature, about 10 minutes.

Make the meringue and assemble the soufflés

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl,
using a hand-held electric mixer), beat the egg whites on high speed
until foamy, about 30 seconds. With the motor running, add the cream of
tartar and continue beating until the bubbles become smaller and the
whites almost form soft peaks, 30 to 60 seconds more. With the motor
still running, add the confectioners’ sugar 1 Tbs. at a time and beat
until the whites hold a glossy, pointed, stiff peak when you remove the
beater, about 30 seconds more. If the peak droops, finish whisking them
to stiff peaks by hand to avoid overbeating.

Stir the pastry cream with a large silicone spatula to loosen it, then
stir in a third of the meringue until combined. Gently fold in another
third of the meringue by starting at the edge of the bowl and slowly
bringing the spatula up through the middle of the pastry cream and then
back to the edge of the bowl, rotating the bowl and repeating this
motion until the meringue is mostly incorporated. It's OK if there are a
few white streaks at this point. Add the remaining meringue and fold
until just combined, leaving no white streaks visible.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins and smooth
the tops with an offset spatula. Run your index finger around the edges
of the ramekins to create a shallow trench. Put the ramekins on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until
a skewer inserted in the center of a soufflé comes out with just the
tip still wet, 15 to 20 minutes. Dust the soufflés with confectioners’
sugar, if you like, and serve immediately with the sauce.

Braised Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic

Don’t let all the garlic in this recipe scare you. Braising the chicken and garlic together yields tender, juicy chicken and mellow, soft garlic cloves. Spreadable and quite sweet, the garlic is great squeezed out of its skin onto baguette slices for mopping up the aromatic sauce.

• 
  
  3-1/2- to 4-lb. chicken
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  One-half lemon
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. sweet Hungarian paprika
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  40 cloves unpeeled garlic, separated and any loose papery skins removed (about 2 large heads)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  Toasted baguette slices for serving
  
  

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Trim any excess fat from the cavity of the chicken. Pat the chicken very dry and season inside and out with 2 tsp. salt and 1 tsp. pepper. Squeeze the juice from the lemon half and set the juice aside. Put the juiced lemon half in the chicken’s cavity. Cross the chicken legs and tie them together; tuck the wings under the chicken. Using a small sieve, dust the breasts and legs with the paprika.

Heat the oil in a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven (large enough to fit the chicken snugly) over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, breast side down, and cook until the skin is browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook the back and sides until browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a plate and pour off and discard the oil left in the pot.

Return the pot to medium-high heat. Add the garlic and wine to the pot, stirring to deglaze the browned bits from the bottom. Return the chicken to the pot, setting it breast side up on top of the garlic. Add the herbs to the pot, pour the broth over the chicken, and bring to a boil. Cover and transfer the pot to the oven. Cook, basting the chicken every 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh registers 160°F, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Uncover and continue to cook the chicken until the thermometer registers 165° to 170°F in the thigh and the juices from the thigh run clear when the thermometer is removed, about 10 minutes more. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and the garlic cloves to a serving platter; cover both loosely with foil to keep warm.

Strain the braising liquid from the pot into a small saucepan; discard the herbs. Tilt the pan so the juices collect in one corner and spoon off and discard as much of the fat as possible. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Simmer until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and some of the reserved lemon juice.

Carve the chicken and transfer the pieces to the serving platter with the garlic. Serve with the sauce and the baguette slices.

Broiled Salmon with Ginger-Shiitake Glaze

Though most glazes are applied with a brush, this slightly chunky mixture of sautéed mushrooms and red peppers is spooned over the fish. The honey helps the crust brown, and a splash of vinegar and a spoonful of chili paste perk up the fish, while the vegetables add texture and color.

• 
  
  2 lbs. salmon fillet, skin on
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. canola oil, more for the baking sheet
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 small red bell pepper, finely diced (about 1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (white and green parts separated)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped ginger
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup honey
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. Asian chili sauce (like Sriracha)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cornstarch
  
  

Position an oven rack about 8 inches away from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high.

Oil a large, rimmed baking sheet. Set the salmon skin side down on the baking sheet, sprinkle with 1 Tbs. oil, the coriander, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper, and let sit at room temperature while you prepare the sauce.

In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat, cook the red pepper, scallion whites, and ginger in the remaining 2 Tbs. oil, stirring occasionally, until the red pepper and scallions start to soften and brown, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to medium high, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until they soften and start to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the honey, vinegar, soy sauce, chili sauce, and 1/4 cup water, and bring to a simmer. Whisk the cornstarch with 1 tsp. water and stir into the glaze. Return to a simmer and cook until the glaze thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Broil the salmon until it starts to brown and becomes almost firm to the touch, about 8 minutes. Momentarily transfer to the stovetop and spoon the glaze over the salmon. Return to the oven and broil for about 1 more minute so the glaze browns and the salmon almost completely cooks through (check by using a paring knife to flake a thicker part of the fillet). Sprinkle with the scallion greens, transfer to a large platter, and serve.

Roasted Garlic Paste

• 
  
  3 heads garlic
  
  


• 
  
  3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Remove the first layer of papery skin from the garlic. Slice off 14 inch from the pointy top. Place each head on a sheet of aluminum foil, cut side up. Drizzle with the oil and season with salt. Wrap each head in the foil and roast until the cloves are golden brown and soft, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and let cool. (You can also do this on the grill, cooking over indirect heat.) 

Remove the roasted cloves from their skins. The most efficient way to do this is to squeeze the whole head from the bottom. Using a fork, vigorously mix the garlic and oil together. Add a pinch of salt. (If your recipe calls just for a clove or two of roasted garlic, you can remove it from the skin using a small escargot-style fork.)

This will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Roasted Carrots & Shallots with Oil-Cured Olives & Gremolata

The sweet earthiness of the carrots pairs perfectly with the briny flavor of the olives and the vibrant gremolata of garlic, lemon zest, and parsley.

• 
  
  1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Zest of 1 medium lemon, finely chopped (1-1/2 to 2 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. medium carrots
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup 1/4-inch-thick-sliced shallot rounds (3 or 4 medium shallots)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup pitted and thinly sliced oil-cured olives
  
  

Tip:

To prep the lemon zest for the gremolata, peel it off in long strips with a vegetable peeler, cut away any of the white pith, and chop the zest finely.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425ºF.

Toss the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside (this is the gremolata).

Peel the carrots and slice in half lengthwise. If they’re big, slice each half lengthwise again into long quarters. Put the carrots on a large rimmed baking sheet and toss with the shallots, thyme, olive oil, salt, and several grinds of pepper. Arrange the carrots in a single layer.

Roast the carrots, tossing occasionally, until they are tender and ever so slightly browned, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and toss in the olives and the gremolata. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Stir-Fried Green Beans with Ginger and Black Bean Sauce

Though these delicate green beans are traditionally saved for fancy French preparations, they’re also perfect for a quick stir-fry. Jarred black bean sauce serves as a light base for the sauce while minced ginger and garlic impart a heady punch.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. Chinese black bean sauce (such as Lee Kum Kee brand) 
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3 tablespoons canola oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. haricots verts, trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium clove garlic, minced
  
  

In a small bowl, mix the soy sauce, black bean sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and sugar, and set aside.

Heat the canola oil in a large (12-inch) straight-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the beans, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, tossing occasionally, until most of the beans are browned, shrunken, and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and add the ginger and garlic; cook for about 45 seconds.

Add the soy sauce mixture to the pan, cook for another 30 seconds, until the beans are coated and the sauce is warmed through, and serve.

Quick Marinara with Toasted Garlic and Rosemary

There’s no need to open a jar of sauce when you can whisk this homemade creation together in the time it takes to cook a pot of pasta. This is a large batch, so use the extra as a base for stews, pizzas, and sautés. It will also keep in the freezer for at least three months.

• 
  
  Two 28-oz. cans plum tomatoes with their juices (6 cups) (preferably San Marzano)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. granulated sugar (optional)
  
  

Strain off and discard 1/2 cup of the tomatoes’ juices (this will give the sauce a thicker consistency).Heat the oil and garlic in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat until the garlic sizzles steadily and turns golden brown in places, about 3 minutes. Add the rosemary and red pepper flakes; reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their remaining juices, 1 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer, cover with the lid ajar, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, so the flavors meld and the sauce reduces slightly. Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a regular blender, purée the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with more salt, pepper, or red pepper flakes if needed. If too acidic, add the sugar. Serve immediately or let cool to room temperature and refrigerate for up to one week, or freeze in zip-top bags or airtight containers.

Pear Ginger Cake with Whipped Cream and Rum-Caramel Glaze

It’s a triple-decker stunner that features a soft, tender cake with fresh pears and homemade ginger folded into the batter, and a billowy whipped cream filling and frosting. All is topped with luscious rum-caramel glaze.

For the cake

• 
  
  12 oz. (1-1/2 cups) unsalted butter, softened; more for the pans
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. 2 oz. (4 cups) all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  4-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  6 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup whole milk, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. firm-ripe Anjou or Bartlett pears (about 2 small pears), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (1 cup) finely chopped Candied Ginger 
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. pure vanilla extract
  
  

For the caramel glaze

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. dark rum
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of kosher salt
  
  

For the whipped cream

• 
  
  6 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  7 oz. (2 cups) confectioners’ sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 oz. (1/2 cup) coarsely chopped Candied Ginger for garnish
  
  

Make the cake

Position racks in the bottom and top thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.


Butter three 9x2-inch round cake pans and line each with a parchment round. Butter the parchment.


In a large bowl, stir the flour, baking powder, and salt.


Using stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium high until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for 30 seconds after each addition.


On low speed, add the flour mixture to the butter mixture in three increments, alternating with the milk in two increments, starting and ending with the flour. Beat on low speed between each addition until just incorporated. The batter will be thick and fluffy. Stir in the pears, candied ginger, and vanilla.


Divide the batter evenly among the three prepared pans. Level the batter with a spatula. Set two pans on the top rack and the third on the lower rack. Stagger the pans on the oven racks so that no pan is directly over another. Bake, swapping and rotating the pans’ positions after 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool on racks for 30 minutes. Invert the cakes onto the racks, remove the parchment, and cool completely.

Make the caramel glaze

Fill a cup measure with water and put a pastry brush in it. In a heavy-duty 3-quart saucepan, stir the sugar, lemon juice, and 1/3 cup cold water. Brush down the sides of the pan to wash away any sugar crystals. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, occasionally brushing down the sides of the pan, until the mixture starts to color around the edges, 5 to 8 minutes. Gently swirl the pan once to even out the color and prevent the sugar from burning in isolated spots so that the sugar caramelizes evenly. Brush down the sides of the pan if the sugar threatens to burn. Continue to cook until the sugar turns medium amber, about 30 seconds more. (Once the mixture begins to color, it will darken very quickly so keep an eye on it.)


Reduce the heat to low and carefully stir in the butter. It will bubble up. Keep stirring until the bubbles settle down, then add the cream a couple of tablespoons at a time, stirring to combine after each addition. Continue stirring until the caramel is smooth, about 2 minutes.


Remove from the heat and stir in the rum and salt. Strain the caramel through a fine sieve into a heatproof measuring cup to remove any small pieces of sugar. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. You should have about 1-2/3 cups.

Make the whipped cream

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and a cold bowl, whip the cream on medium speed until it starts to thicken, about 2 minutes. Add the sugar, raise the speed to medium high, and continue to whip until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes more. Raise the speed to high until the cream forms stiff peaks and is very thick, about 30 seconds more.

Assemble the cake

Put a cake layer on a flat serving platter or a cake stand lined with strips of waxed paper to keep it clean while icing. Top the layer with 2 cups of the whipped cream, spreading it evenly with a metal cake spatula almost to the cake’s edge. Put the next cake layer over the filling and spread 2 more cups of the whipped cream over it. Top with the last cake layer and thickly coat the sides and top of the cake with the remaining whipped cream. Refrigerate the cake for 30 minutes.

Glaze the cake

Slowly pour the glaze over the top of the cake, making sure that it covers the top and drizzles down the sides (some of the whipped cream frosting should show through the drizzles on the sides).


Press the coarsely chopped candied ginger pieces in a 1-inch band around the base of the cake for decoration. Remove the waxed paper strips.


Refrigerate the cake for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours before serving.

Caramel Soufflés with Ginger Crème Anglaise

Flavoring the pastry cream with a simple homemade caramel makes for a sophisticated departure from the usual chocolate soufflés. If you like, you can pair the soufflés with raspberry compote or blood orange sauce instead of the ginger crème anglaise.

For the ginger crème anglaise

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
  
  


• 
  
  1 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 1/8 inch thick
  
  


• 
  
  4 large egg yolks
  
  

For the ramekins

• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  

For the caramel pastry cream

• 
  
  1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream, heated
  
  


• 
  
  4 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. cornstarch
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  

For the meringue

• 
  
  8 large egg whites, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (1/4 cup) confectioners’ sugar; more for dusting
  
  

Make the crème anglaise

In a 2-quart saucepan, heat the cream, sugar, vanilla bean seeds and pod, and ginger over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until simmering, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for up to 30 minutes; the longer it sits, the more intense the ginger flavor will be.

Whisk the yolks in a small bowl until smooth. Return the cream mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk a quarter of the cream into the yolks to warm them. Using a wooden spoon, stir the yolk mixture into the cream. Continue stirring over medium heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon and an instant-read thermometer registers 170°F to 175°F, about 2 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. If you want to serve it cold, cover and refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until chilled, about 2 hours.

Prepare the ramekins

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to
375°F. Generously butter eight 6-oz. ramekins (3-1/2 inches in diameter
and about 2 inches deep). Coat the insides with sugar, tapping out any
excess.

Make the pastry cream

Sprinkle the brown sugar in an even layer on the bottom of a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, undisturbed, until partially melted, about 3 minutes. Whisk until the sugar melts and begins to darken, 1 to 2 minutes more; remove from the heat.

Carefully whisk in the heavy cream; the caramel will sputter and possibly harden. If it hardens, stir over low heat until melted again. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, milk, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk half of the hot caramel into the egg mixture, and then whisk the egg mixture into the pan of caramel. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles, about 4 minutes; it's OK if it's lumpy at this point. Continue simmering while whisking until smooth and very thick, about 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla . Transfer to a large bowl set in a larger bowl of ice water and whisk often until cooled to room temperature, about 10 minutes.

Make the meringue and assemble the soufflés

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a large bowl,
using a hand-held electric mixer), beat the egg whites on high speed
until foamy, about 30 seconds. With the motor running, add the cream of
tartar and continue beating until the bubbles become smaller and the
whites almost form soft peaks, 30 to 60 seconds more. With the motor
still running, add the confectioners’ sugar 1 Tbs. at a time and beat
until the whites hold a glossy, pointed, stiff peak when you remove the
beater, about 30 seconds more. If the peak droops, finish whisking them
to stiff peaks by hand to avoid overbeating.

Stir the pastry cream with a large silicone spatula to loosen it, then
stir in a third of the meringue until combined. Gently fold in another
third of the meringue by starting at the edge of the bowl and slowly
bringing the spatula up through the middle of the pastry cream and then
back to the edge of the bowl, rotating the bowl and repeating this
motion until the meringue is mostly incorporated. It's OK if there are a
few white streaks at this point. Add the remaining meringue and fold
until just combined, leaving no white streaks visible.

Divide the soufflé mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins and smooth
the tops with an offset spatula. Run your index finger around the edges
of the ramekins to create a shallow trench. Put the ramekins on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake until
a skewer inserted in the center of a soufflé comes out with just the
tip still wet, 15 to 20 minutes. Dust the soufflés with confectioners’
sugar, if you like, and serve immediately with the sauce.

Garden Lettuces with Garlic Chapons

Chapons are large, rustic croutons that are made from the crust of bread rather than the crumb and then rubbed with garlic. They add a nice hint of garlic to a simple tossed green salad.

• 
  
  3/4 lb. crusty, country-style bread (I like an Italian bâtard or levain)
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more for brushing on the bread
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 clove garlic, peeled and halved
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium shallots, minced (about 1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  6 large handfuls mixed baby lettuce (about 1/2 lb.), washed and spun dry
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F.

Using a serrated knife, carve the crust off the bread into rustic, curved slabs that are about 1/4 inch thick. Save the rest of the bread for another use (such as making breadcrumbs). Brush the crusts on both sides with olive oil and season lightly with salt. Put the crusts on a baking sheet and bake until crisp and golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. When cool enough to handle, rub the crusts lightly with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Snap the crusts into bite-size pieces. Discard the garlic.

In a small bowl, combine the shallots and vinegar with a pinch of salt and let sit for at least 10 minutes and up to 2 hours.

When ready to serve, put the chapons and lettuce in a large mixing bowl and season with a generous pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Drizzle the lettuce with the 6 Tbs. olive oil. Scoop the shallots out of the vinegar and sprinkle them on the lettuce. Gently toss the salad, making sure that all of the lettuce is evenly dressed. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more olive oil, the remaining vinegar in the bowl (or more if necessary), salt, and pepper. Serve immediately on a chilled platter or individual plates, with the chapons tucked in among the lettuces.

Broiled Salmon with Ginger-Shiitake Glaze

Though most glazes are applied with a brush, this slightly chunky mixture of sautéed mushrooms and red peppers is spooned over the fish. The honey helps the crust brown, and a splash of vinegar and a spoonful of chili paste perk up the fish, while the vegetables add texture and color.

• 
  
  2 lbs. salmon fillet, skin on
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. canola oil, more for the baking sheet
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 small red bell pepper, finely diced (about 1/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (white and green parts separated)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped ginger
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup honey
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. reduced-sodium soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. Asian chili sauce (like Sriracha)
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. cornstarch
  
  

Position an oven rack about 8 inches away from the broiler element and heat the broiler to high.

Oil a large, rimmed baking sheet. Set the salmon skin side down on the baking sheet, sprinkle with 1 Tbs. oil, the coriander, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper, and let sit at room temperature while you prepare the sauce.

In a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat, cook the red pepper, scallion whites, and ginger in the remaining 2 Tbs. oil, stirring occasionally, until the red pepper and scallions start to soften and brown, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, raise the heat to medium high, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until they soften and start to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the honey, vinegar, soy sauce, chili sauce, and 1/4 cup water, and bring to a simmer. Whisk the cornstarch with 1 tsp. water and stir into the glaze. Return to a simmer and cook until the glaze thickens, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Broil the salmon until it starts to brown and becomes almost firm to the touch, about 8 minutes. Momentarily transfer to the stovetop and spoon the glaze over the salmon. Return to the oven and broil for about 1 more minute so the glaze browns and the salmon almost completely cooks through (check by using a paring knife to flake a thicker part of the fillet). Sprinkle with the scallion greens, transfer to a large platter, and serve.

Spaghetti with Creamy Braised Garlic and Leeks

Braising the garlic in this recipe takes away some of its punch, rendering it sweet and ultratender.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium leeks (light-green and white parts only), halved and sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces (10 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  10 medium cloves garlic, halved
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. grated Pecorino Romano (1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Heat the butter and oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add the leeks, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until the leeks begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and press a 12-inch round piece of parchment over the leek mixture to cover completely (see the Test Kitchen blog for more on this technique). Cover the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally (you will have to lift the parchment), until the leeks are very soft but not falling apart and the garlic is very soft, about 40 minutes.


Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.


Uncover the skillet and remove the parchment. Stir in the cream and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked pasta and toss. If necessary, add the reserved pasta water 1 Tbs. at a time to make a silky sauce that clings to the pasta.


Off the heat, stir in the cheese and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

Ginger Chicken Soup

• 
  
  1 1-inch piece fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, unpeeled
  
  


• 
  
  10 to 12 oz. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat (about 3 medium)
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups low-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. Asian chile paste, like sambal oelek or Sriracha
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. thinly sliced scallion (green tops only)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. mild vegetable oil, like canola or safflower oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup packed baby spinach (about 2 oz.)
  
  

Peel the ginger and slice it into four 1/4-inch coins. Using the flat side of a chef’s knife or a meat pounder, smash the coins. Smash the garlic and remove the skin.

In a medium saucepan, com­bine the ginger, garlic, chicken, broth, soy sauce, lemon juice, chile paste, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and gently simmer until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the chicken to a plate. Use a slotted spoon to remove the ginger and garlic and discard. Keep the broth warm.

Tip:

If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, mince the scallions and cilantro, transfer to a small bowl to combine with the oil, and scrape the mixture back onto a cutting board. Position the blade of a chef’s knife at a 30-degree angle to the board and repeatedly drag the blade over the cilantro mixture using a bit of pressure to mash it.

Finely chop the cilantro and scallion. Put them in a mortar, add a pinch of salt and 2 tsp. of the oil, and pound and mash with the pestle (see tip). Once the mixture begins to blend, add the remaining teaspoon of oil. Continue to grind the pestle into the cilantro mixture until it is aromatic and has the consistency of a paste.

Once the chicken is cool, slice it thinly and portion it into four soup bowls. Return the broth to a simmer and season with salt to taste. Add the spinach to the broth and continue to simmer until it’s wilted, 1 to 2 minutes more. Ladle the broth and spinach evenly over each portion of chicken and then top each with a dollop of the cilantro paste.