Butternut Squash Lasagne with Goat Cheese, Sage, and Breadcrumbs

The combination of sweet-and-savory roasted squash, tangy goat cheese, and fresh herbs brings big flavor to this lasagne, while the tender pasta keeps things light.

• 
  
  1 large butternut squash (about 3 lb.), halved lengthwise and seeded 
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, unpeeled
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh thyme plus 2 tsp. chopped leaves  
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. unsalted butter  
  
  


• 
  
  2 sprigs fresh sage plus 1 tsp. chopped leaves 
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/8 oz. (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour 
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups whole milk 
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 cups crumbled fresh goat cheese (4 oz.) 
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano (2 oz.) 
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup coarse dry breadcrumbs or panko 
  
  


• 
  
  1 recipe Fresh Pasta for Lasagne
  
  

Roast the squash and garlic

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 425°F.

Put the squash cut side up on a large, heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet. Put 1 garlic clove and 1 sprig of thyme in each cavity. Drizzle each half with 1 tsp. of the oil and then season each with 1/4 tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper. Roast until the squash is browned in spots and very tender when pierced with a skewer, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. 

Discard the thyme sprigs. Peel the garlic and put in a large bowl. Scoop the squash flesh from the skins and add it to the garlic. Mash with a fork until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.

Make a goat cheese and sage sauce

Melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the sage sprigs and cook until the butter is fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Discard the sage. Add the flour and whisk until smooth and golden, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook, whisking occasionally, until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Stir in the goat cheese, 1/2 cup of the pecorino, the nutmeg, 1 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Set aside 1-1/2 cups of the sauce and mix the rest with the mashed squash. 

Season the breadcrumbs

Melt the remaining 1 Tbs. butter in a small skillet over medium heat. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs, chopped sage, chopped thyme, a pinch of salt, and few grinds of pepper. Add the melted butter and mix well. 

Assemble and bake the lasagne

Spread 1/2 cup of the reserved cheese sauce over the bottom of a 9x13x3-inch baking dish. Cover the sauce with a slightly overlapping layer of cooked noodles, cutting them as needed to fill any gaps. Spread 1 cup of the squash mixture evenly over the noodles. Add another layer of noodles and repeat the layers as instructed above, to make a total of 4 squash layers and 5 pasta layers. Spread the remaining 1 cup cheese sauce evenly over the top. Sprinkle with the breadcrumb mixture and the remaining 1/2 cup pecorino.

Cover the baking dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Remove the foil
and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool
for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Bacon and Cheddar Macaroni & Cheese

When looking for inspiration for my macaroni and cheeses, I turned to stuffed potatoes and omelets, believing that what works well with eggs and potatoes would be delicious with pasta, too. Boy, was I right! Bacon, Cheddar cheese, sour cream, and scallions are classic additions to stuffed potatoes, and with pasta they’re perfection.

• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for salting the pasta water
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb.fusilli (corkscrew) or other pasta
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. bacon, diced
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups firmly packed shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (about 1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sour cream, for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, (white and green parts), for garnish
  
  

Bring a medium (6- to 8-quart) pot of water to a boil. Salt it generously (it should taste like the sea). Stir in the pasta and cook according to the package directions. Drain (but don’t rinse, or you’ll rinse away starches that will help thicken the sauce) and return to the empty pot.

Meanwhile, place a large (12- to 14-inch) sauté pan over high heat for several minutes. When hot, add the bacon and sauté until browned and crispy (lower the heat to medium-high if necessary to prevent scorching), about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and, using a slotted spoon or spatula, remove the bacon from the pan and drain on paper towels.

Pour off the fat from the pan (into a metal can or heatproof cup, not down the drain or you’ll potentially clog your pipes) and return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the heavy cream and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat to medium and continue to simmer until the cream is reduced slightly, about 3 minutes.

Add the Cheddar cheese and bacon. Stir well and cook over medium-high heat, stirring now and then, until the cheese has melted and the mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper.

Stir the sauce into the cooked and drained pasta in the pot. Place over medium heat and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes to thicken the sauce and allow the pasta to absorb the flavors, stirring now and then.

Serve in individual bowls topped with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of sliced scallions.

Creole Ham, Sausage, and Shrimp Jambalaya

Since Gonzales, a small Cajun town between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, Louisiana, proclaims itself "The Jambalaya Capital of the World" and sponsors a major festival and cooking competition every June, don't even suggest to any of the locals that this legendary rice dish is considered by many to be a hallmark of Creole cookery. What matters is that the name itself derives from the French jambon, and that some form of ham continues to be the main ingredient of jambalaya even when crawfish or shrimp, poultry, or even game is added to the elaborate dish. Cajuns will tell you that no jambalaya is authentic unless it contains tasso, a highly seasoned local ham rarely found outside Louisiana. Nor are you likely to encounter any jambalaya in the region that doesn't also boast a spicy, smoked pork sausage such as andouille or kielbasa. The best I can determine is that my jambalaya would be classified as Creole by virtue of the fact that it has no tomatoes.   

• 
  
  2 oz. salt pork, cut into pieces
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium onions
  
  


• 
  
  2 celery ribs, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 small green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 garlic cloves, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. cooked ham, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. spicy smoked sausage links, cut into 1/2-inch slices
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 1/2 cups uncooked long-grain rice
  
  


• 
  
  5 cups water
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh shrimp, shelled and deveined
  
  


• 
  
  Tabasco sauce
  
  

In a heavy 8-quart pot or casserole, cook the salt pork over low heat till all the fat is rendered, add the onions, celery, bell pepper, and garlic, and stir till the vegetables soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the ham, sausage, salt, pepper, thyme, cayenne, and bay leaves and continue stirring for about 10 minutes longer. Add the rice, and water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes. Add the shrimp, stir well, increase the heat to moderate, and stir with a forl till the rice begins to dry out and is fluffy, about 15 minutes.

Serve the jambalaya with Tabasco on the side. 

Learn more about James Villas' cookbook Pig: King of the Southern Table by reading Nadia Arumugam's book review from the June/July 2010 issue of Fine Cooking.

Creole-Style Shrimp Jambalaya

A creole-style (red) jambalaya always includes tomatoes. I like using tomato paste instead of canned or fresh tomatoes because it adds deeper flavor and gives the finished dish a rich hue. The shrimp are cooked for a long time, which may seem odd, but this method yields a flavorful jambalaya with tender—never mushy—shrimp. If you can find head-on shrimp, this is the place to use them; just remove and discard the heads at the point in the recipe where you peel and devein the shrimp.

• 
  
  6 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup), trimmings reserved
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. large (31 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, preferably wild-caught
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 dried bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. ground allspice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of ground cloves
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups long-grain white rice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Hot sauce, preferably Crystal (optional)
  
  

In a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan, combine the scallion trimmings, celery trimmings, and onion trimmings with 5-1/2 cups of water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the shrimp, let the water return to a boil, and cook until pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a sieve set over a large glass measuring cup, reserving the stock. You will need 4-1/2 cups of stock, so add water if necessary. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp. Discard the shells and trimmings.

Melt the butter in a 5- to 6-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven (or other heavy-duty pot) over medium-high heat. Add the celery, onion, and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the ham and the reserved shrimp and cook, stirring often, until any excess moisture evaporates and the ham and vegetables begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until a shade darker, about 3 minutes. Stir in the bay leaf, thyme, cayenne, chili powder, allspice, cloves, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Stir in the rice. Add the reserved stock and bring to a boil. Cover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, undisturbed, just until the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Check the rice for doneness in several places.

Remove the pot from the heat. Sprinkle the paprika over the jambalaya and, using a fork, gently fluff the scallions and paprika into the jambalaya. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes to let the flavors meld. Serve with hot sauce, if you like.

Shrimp and Pineapple Stir-Fry with Coconut Rice

The bright, tropical flavors of this dish make it seem like you fussed, but the prep work can be speeded up by buying peeled shrimp and pineapple. Cooking the rice in coconut milk adds just the right amount of sweetness.

• 
  
  1-1/3 cups jasmine rice
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup golden rum
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup fresh lime juice (from 3 medium limes); more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. cornstarch
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/4 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), preferably wild, peeled and deveined
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  4-1/3-inch-thick rounds peeled, cored pineapple, each cut into 8 wedges
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
  
  

In a microwave-safe 8- to 10-cup bowl, combine the rice, coconut milk, and 3/4 tsp. salt with 2 cups water. Microwave on high power, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Let stand in the closed microwave until all the water is absorbed, at least 5 and up to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the rum, lime juice, cornstarch, 1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper until the cornstarch dissolves.

Pat the shrimp dry and season with 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Heat the oil in a wok or a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and stir-fry until partially cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the pineapple and continue to stir-fry until heated through, about 1 minute. Whisk the sauce, add it to the skillet, and stir until the shrimp are just opaque in the center and coated with the thickened sauce, about 1 minute. Stir in the mint and remove the wok from the heat.

Fluff the rice with a fork, spoon it onto 4 dinner plates, top with the stir-fry, and serve.

Macaroni and Four Cheeses

This creamy, crumb-topped macaroni-and-cheese gets its bright golden color and a big nutritional boost from puréed winter squash. Don’t tell and no one will ever know. They’ll just thank you for making their  favorite cheesy comfort meal.

• 
  
  Cooking spray
  
  


• 
  
  1 16-oz. box elbow macaroni
  
  


• 
  
  2 10-oz. packages frozen puréed winter squash
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups lowfat milk
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/3 cups grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese (4 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese (2 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup part-skim ricotta cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. dry mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. cayenne pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. plain dry bread crumbs
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. olive oil
  
  

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Coat a 9 x 13-in. baking dish with cooking spray. Cook the macaroni according the package directions. Drain and transfer to the prepared baking dish.

Meanwhile, place the frozen squash and milk in a large saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally and breaking up the squash with a spoon until it is defrosted. Turn the heat up to medium and cook until the mixture is almost simmering, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheddar, Jack cheese, ricotta, salt, mustard, and cayenne. Pour this mixture over the macaroni and stir to combine.

Combine the bread crumbs, Parmigiano, and oil in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the top of the macaroni and cheese. Bake until the cheeses are bubbling around the edges, about 20 minutes, then broil for 3 minutes so the top is crisp and nicely browned.

Greek Macaroni & Cheese

This is one of my lighter versions of mac and cheese (lighter, not low calorie!) because it uses no cream. But if its popularity among our guests is any indication, your family will love it!

• 
  
  2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 3/4 lb.), cut into 2 by 1/2-inch strips
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for salting the pasta water
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (about 2 large cloves)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium tomatoes, diced (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. farfalle (bow-tie) pasta
  
  


• 
  
  5 packed cups fresh spinach leaves (about 8 oz. or 2 bunches), washed and stems trimmed
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano leaves, or 1 tsp.dried oregano
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups dry white wine, such as Chardonnay
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups crumbled feta cheese (about 7 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pitted Kalamata or other black olives
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish
  
  

Arrange the chicken strips in a single layer on a plate or baking sheet (this makes it easier to season and dredge them). Sprinkle evenly with 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. black pepper. Place the flour in a shallow bowl, and dredge the chicken in flour on both sides.

Place a large (12- to 14-inch) sauté pan over high heat for a couple of minutes. When hot, add the olive oil, swirl the pan to coat, and add the chicken strips in a single layer. Cook in batches if needed. Cook until slightly browned, about 1 minute. Turn the pieces or stir them so they brown evenly, about 1-1/2 minutes more.

Reduce the heat to medium-high. Push the chicken strips to the side of the pan as they continue to cook, and add the garlic. Cook just until fragrant, about 1 minute, but do not let it brown or it will taste bitter.

Add the tomatoes, season with 1/4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. black pepper, and cook until they start to give off their juices, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a medium (6- to 8-quart) pot of water to a boil. Salt it generously (it should taste like the sea). Stir in the pasta and cook according to the package directions. Drain (but don’t rinse, or you’ll rinse away starches that will help thicken the sauce) and return to the empty pot.

Add the spinach, oregano, remaining 1/2 tsp. salt, and remaining 1/4 tsp. black pepper to the pan with the tomatoes. Stir until the spinach has wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the wine to the pan, stirring to scrape up any browned bits, and cook over medium-high heat until reduced slightly and the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes.

Add the feta and olives to the pan, stirring well to incorporate. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, a tablespoon at a time, until the sauce has thickened slightly. (Careful! Your pan can’t be too hot or the butter and sauce will separate and look oily. If that happens, take the sauce off the heat and add more feta to help the sauce bind together.)

Stir the sauce into the cooked and drained pasta in the pot. Place over medium heat and simmer for 2 minutes to thicken the sauce and allow the pasta to absorb the flavors, stirring now and then.

Serve in individual bowls topped with Parmesan cheese.

Creamy Rotini with Zucchini, Tomato, and Red Pepper

The season’s most plentiful vegetables come together in this satisfying pasta dish. To make it even heartier, try adding diced grilled chicken.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small white onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  4 ripe Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano finely grated with a rasp (3/4 cup); more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. rotini, or other short corkscrew pasta
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, zucchini, bell pepper, garlic, 2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are barely tender, about 7 minutes. Pour in the heavy cream and simmer until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 7 minutes. Stir in the cheese, basil, and lemon zest.

Meanwhile, boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente.

Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Pour in the sauce and toss until the pasta is evenly coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with additional cheese, and serve.

Spaghetti with Abruzzese Lamb Ragu

Lamb ragù is a specialty of Abruzzo where farmers have raised sheep for centuries, letting them graze in mountain pastures during the spring and summer, and herding them south to the milder climate of Puglia for the winter. The Abruzzesi love adding chile pepper—fresh, dried, or preserved in oil—to their ragùs, and some is always set out for passing at the table. This ragù is traditionally served with maccheroni alla chitarra, a squarecut noodle similar to thick spaghetti.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg of lamb, cut into 6 or 8 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 small red onion, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh herbs, such as rosemary and sage
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry red or white wine, such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo or Orvieto
  
  


• 
  
  6 cups canned diced tomatoes, with their juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 1/2 lb. thick spaghetti or maccheroni alla chitarra
   
  
  


• 
  
  Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano shavings for serving (optional)
   
  
  


• 
  
  Minced fresh hot chile or crushed red pepper flakes, for serving
  
  

Tip:

You can make this sauce with either red or white wine; consdier using red during the colder months for a heartier flavor.

Make the ragu

Heat the oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Season the lamb on both sides with salt and pepper and sear the meat on one side until well browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn and sear the other side until browned, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the lamb to a deep platter.

Reduce the heat to medium low and add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic, and herbs. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Return the lamb and its juice to the pot, raise the heat to medium high, and pour in the wine. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes and then add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium low or low to maintain a gentle simmer. Cover partially and let the sauce simmer until the lamb is forktender, about 2-1/2 hours. Using tongs, transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it cool for a few minutes. Meanwhile, if the sauce seems thin, let it continue simmering until thickened to a saucy consistency. If it seems too thick, add a splash of water.

Shred the lamb with two forks and return it to the pot. Simmer gently until the meat is heated through. Season to taste with salt.

Cook the pasta and serve

When ready to serve, bring a large pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente—you want it to still have some bite because it will continue to cook a bit while you’re tossing it with the ragù. Reserve about 1 cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta. Return it to the pot and toss it with some of the ragù, adding a little cooking water if it seems dry. Serve the pasta with more ragù spooned over the top. Garnish with sahved Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, if you like, and serve with minced chiles or red pepper flakes on the side.  

Macaroni and Cheese with Cayenne

Ground cayenne gives a little spicy kick to this otherwise-very-classic mac and cheese.Make it Your Own:Use the Macaroni and Cheese Recipe Maker to create a recipe with the pasta, cheeses, spices, herbs, meats, and vegetables you love.

For the Topping:

• 
  
  1 small garlic clove, mashed into a paste or pressed (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups coarse, fresh breadcrumbs, lightly toasted
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)
  
  

For the Macaroni

• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. finely grated Gruyère
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. finely grated fontina
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. ground cayenne
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. pipette pasta
  
  

Make the Topping:

If using the garlic, stir it into the butter. Put the breadcrumbs in a medium bowl and drizzle the butter over the crumbs. Add a pinch of salt and the Parmigiano-Reggiano (if using). With your hands, toss well to combine. Set aside.

Make the Macaroni:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Melt the butter in a heavy-duty 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Whisk in the flour and continue to whisk over low heat for 3 minutes—the butter and flour should gently bubble and froth without coloring. Slowly add the milk, while whisking constantly. Be sure to whisk around the edges of the pan to get all the lumps. Whisk until the sauce is smooth and has the consistency of heavy cream, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and bring the sauce to a simmer, whisking constantly. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Turn off the heat and gently whisk in the Gruyère, fontina, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and cayenne. Season to taste with salt. Keep warm.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pipette pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 1 minute less than indicated on the package. Drain well and return to the pot.

Add the cheese sauce to the pasta and gently stir to combine. Transfer the pasta mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish and evenly scatter the reserved breadcrumbs on top. Bake at 350°F until the top is golden, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Green Garlic and Olive Oil

In this riff on the classic spaghetti aglio e olio (spaghetti with garlic and olive oil), green garlic replaces the traditional pungent cloves and lends a more delicate garlic flavor.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. green garlic, green parts cut into 3-inch julienne strands, white parts thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  2 T bs. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring 3 quarts of well-salted water to a boil in a large pot over high heat.


Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over low heat. Add the green garlic and 2 big pinches of salt; stir to coat. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.


Boil the spaghetti until just al dente, about 1 minute less than package timing. Set aside about 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain the pasta.


Return the sauté pan to low heat. Add the spaghetti and 1/4 cup of the cooking water; toss well. Add the Parmigiano and 2 Tbs. of the water; toss again. Season to taste with salt and pepper, adding the remaining water if the pasta seems dry. Serve in heated pasta bowls, sprinkled with additional Parmigiano.

Hearty Bacon-Kale Macaroni and Cheese

Mac and cheese, the ultimate winter comfort-food dish, is made even more rib-sticking with the addition of smoky bacon and hearty greens. Make it Your Own:Use the Macaroni and Cheese Recipe Maker to create a recipe with the pasta, cheeses, spices, herbs, meats, and vegetables you love.

For the Topping:

• 
  
  1 small garlic clove, mashed into a paste or pressed (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups coarse, fresh breadcrumbs, lightly toasted
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)
  
  

For the Macaroni:

• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. finely grated Cantal
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. finely grated fontina
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. mostaccioli pasta
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups sautéed, drained and chopped kale
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup diced, cooked bacon
  
  

Make the Topping:

If using the garlic, stir it into the butter. Put the breadcrumbs in a medium bowl and drizzle the butter over the crumbs. Add a pinch of salt and the Parmigiano-Reggiano  (if using). With your hands, toss well to combine. Set aside.

Make the Macaroni:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Melt the butter in a heavy-duty 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Whisk in the flour and continue to whisk over low heat for 3 minutes—the butter and flour should gently bubble and froth without coloring. Slowly add the milk, while whisking constantly. Be sure to whisk around the edges of the pan to get all the lumps. Whisk until the sauce is smooth and has the consistency of heavy cream, about 6 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and bring the sauce to a simmer, whisking constantly. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Turn off the heat and gently whisk in the Cantal, fontina, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Season to taste with salt. Keep warm.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the mostaccioli and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 1 minute less than indicated on the package. Drain well and return to the pot.

Add the cheese sauce, kale, and bacon to the pasta and gently stir to combine. Transfer the pasta mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish and evenly scatter the reserved breadcrumbs on top. Bake at 350°F until the top is golden, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

Spring Risotto with Ramps, Asparagus, and Morels

Ramps, or wild leeks, are one of the fleeting pleasures of early spring. Their pungent, almost spicy garlicky-onion flavor mellows a bit with cooking, and this creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle to show them off, paired with two other spring vegetable stars, morels and asparagus.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup trimmed and roughly chopped ramps
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups asparagus pieces (1 inch)
  
  


• 
  
  7 cups homemade or reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups chopped onion
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups short-grain risotto rice, such as arborio or carnaroli
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry white wine
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dried morels, soaked in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes and cut into 1/4-inch slices (strain and reserve the soaking liquid)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  


• 
  
  2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In a medium sauté pan, heat the butter until foaming, then add the ramps and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and sauté another 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

Bring the broth almost to a boil in a large pot. Reduce the heat to very low; the broth should stay hot but not simmer.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least 10 inches wide or in a similar-sized Dutch oven. Add the onion and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook slowly, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is completely gone and the onion is soft and glistening but not browned, another 5 to 10 minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. Toasted rice should still be white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it.

Pour in the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir the mushrooms and their soaking liquid into the rice, and cook, stirring, until the liquid is mostly absorbed.

Ladle in 1-1/2 to 2 cups broth to barely cover the rice and stir constantly. Add another 1/2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is dry enough that your stirring spoon leaves a trail showing the bottom of the pot, ladle in another cup of broth, again stirring until it’s all absorbed. Continue adding broth in 1-cup increments, always stirring, until the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually 12 to 16 minutes after the first addition of liquid.

When the risotto is a few minutes away from al dente, stir in the sautéed ramps and asparagus.

After you’ve added 5 cups of liquid, (16 to 20 minutes from the first liquid addition), taste the rice to determine if it’s al dente and pleasantly creamy. If it is, remove it immediately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorporating more broth. Gently stir in the cheese and parsley and serve immediately.

Spaghetti and Meatballs

Plenty of oregano and a touch of fennel makes these tender meatballs super flavorful. This recipe uses a higher proportion of pork than beef or veal in the meatballs because it gives the best texture, but meatloaf mix—equal parts beef, veal, and pork—is an easy-to-find substitute.

For the sauce

• 
  
  1/2 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 26- to 28-oz. containers diced tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the meatballs

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. 80% lean ground beef
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarse fresh white breadcrumbs
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 1-1/2 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground fennel seed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the pasta

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  

Make the sauce

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano, and bay leaf. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft, 6 to 10 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until darkened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer over low heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce has reduced by about a third, 40 to 60 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and season to taste with salt. Keep warm, covered. (The sauce can also be refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for 1 month.)

Make the meatballs

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Coat the bottom and sides of an 8x8-inch baking dish with the olive oil. Set aside.

Combine the ground meats, breadcrumbs, ricotta, eggs, parsley, oregano, fennel seed, red pepper flakes, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix gently but thoroughly with your hands.

Divide the meat into 16 golf-ball-size portions using a 2-oz., 2-inch-diameter ice cream scoop or your hands; roll with wet hands to make them round. Arrange the balls snugly in the baking dish.

Bake the meatballs until they register about 90°F on an instant-read thermometer and are firm to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes. (If you’ve made the tomato sauce ahead, heat it while the meatballs are cooking.)

Remove the meatballs from the oven and drain excess fat, if there is any, from the pan. Ladle half of the sauce over them, return them to the oven, and continue to bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into one reads 165°F, about 15 minutes. (The meatballs can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 2 weeks.)

Cook the pasta

Bring a large covered pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil.

Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes less than package timing for al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the pasta water and drain.

Return the pasta to the pot and mix with the remaining sauce. Add 1 cup pasta water to thin the sauce and cook over medium heat until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more pasta water if necessary, and season to taste with salt.

Transfer the spaghetti to a large heated serving bowl. Top with the meatballs and their sauce and serve.

Wild Mushroom and Arugula Risotto

Make a comfort meal of a classically comforting dish. This creamy risotto gets its deep flavor from chicken broth, dry sherry, peppery arugula, and wild mushrooms. Bulk dried mushrooms typically include more exotic types like oyster, shiitake, and morel. 

• 
  
  1-1/2 cups (1 oz.) dried mushrooms, rehydrated and chopped, plus 3/4 cup soaking liquid
  
  


• 
  
  5 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry sherry
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. baby arugula (4 cups, loosely packed)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup sliced chives 
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the mushroom soaking liquid with the chicken broth in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Meanwhile, in a large (4-quart) pot, melt 2 Tbs. butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sprinkle with 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook the onion, stirring, until it softens and turns a light brown, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Add the sherry; raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring, until it almost completely reduces, about 1 minute.

Reduce the heat to medium; add 3/4 cup of the broth to the rice, and cook, stirring often, until the rice absorbs the broth, 2 to 3 minutes. Add another 3/4 cup of broth and cook until absorbed. Continue adding broth in this manner until the rice is creamy and tender, about 20 minutes total—you may or may not need all of the broth. Stir in the arugula, Parmigiano, all but a couple tablespoons of the chives, and the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and continue stirring until the arugula is just wilted, about 1 minute. Serve immediately in individual bowls, sprinkled with a few grinds of black pepper and the remaining chives.

Pork Ragout and Soft Polenta

If you made the Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder over the weekend, this hearty and satisfying ragout is the perfect way to enjoy it again. The soft polenta makes this recipe comfort on a plate—the perfect meal for a chilly winter night. 

• 
  
  2 cups whole milk; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup yellow stone-ground cornmeal
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for sprinkling
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium ribs celery, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice
  
  


• 
  
  Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  3 canned tomatoes, drained and cut into medium dice
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups leftover shredded Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder 
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Combine the milk with 2 cups water in a medium heavy-duty saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat (watch carefully to prevent a boilover). Add 1-1/2 tsp. salt and whisk in the cornmeal in a fine stream. Continue to whisk until the polenta begins to thicken, 1 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat so that the polenta slowly bubbles and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, until tender and no longer gritty, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the cornmeal. If the polenta becomes too thick in the process, add milk, a little at a time, to maintain a soft consistency. When the polenta is done, stir in the Parmigiano and 1/2 Tbs. of the butter and season to taste with salt. Keep warm until serving. (The polenta will thicken as it sits. If necessary, add a splash of milk to thin it just before serving.)

Heat the oil in a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrots, celery, onion, pepper flakes, and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until tender and starting to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring, for another minute. Add the pork and chicken broth. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until the broth has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon the polenta into shallow bowls and then spoon the ragout on the top and to one side, with the broth pooling around the polenta. (Make sure each portion gets a fair share of broth.) Sprinkle each portion with parsley and Parmigiano and serve immediately.

Spicy Penne Tossed with Chicken, Broccoli and Chopped Olives

Kalamata olives enhance any dish with their salty, rich flavor. Here, they add a twist to a basic chicken and broccoli pasta. For a vegetarian option, omit the chicken and add red and green peppers, garbanzo beans, or any other legume or vegetable of your choice when the pasta and pasta water is added to the skillet.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 cloves garlic, smashed
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. (about 1 large) boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into thin strips
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. penne
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. broccoli florets, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup freshly grated Pecorino-Romano
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, heat the oil and garlic in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring gently so the cloves don’t break up, until they become light brown in places and very fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rosemary and red pepper flakes and cook until they start to sizzle, about 15 seconds. Add the chicken, sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring often, until the chicken loses its raw color, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the olives.

Add the penne to the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, until just barely al dente, 1 to 2 minutes less than the package instructions. Add the broccoli and cook until it turns bright green and the pasta is tender, about 1 minute. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta water, and then drain the pasta and broccoli. Discard the garlic from the olive mixture. Add the pasta and the pasta water to the skillet and cook uncovered over medium-high heat, stirring, until the pasta absorbs most of the liquid, about 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and half of the Pecorino. Serve sprinkled with the remaining Pecorino.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

If you’d like to make this pasta for four people, double the recipe, but transfer the pasta back into the pot used for cooking it and then toss it with the eggs and cheese.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. fatty pancetta or guanciale, sliced 1/4 inch thick and cut into 1-1/2 x 1/2-inch rectangles
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup diced red onion
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs, chilled
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. imported dried spaghetti (I like Setaro brand; avaiable online)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup lightly packed, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

In a 10-inch skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or guanciale and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the meat is browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium low.) Add the onion and continue to cook until it’s soft and golden and the meat is crisp, about 5 minutes more.

Remove the pan from the heat and carefully spoon off all but about 2 Tbs. of the fat. Add 1 Tbs. water to the pan and scrape any brown bits from the bottom.

Beat the eggs in a small bowl until smooth and set aside.

Cook the spaghetti in the boiling water according to package directions until it’s just shy of al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking water and drain the spaghetti. Transfer the spaghetti to the skillet, set it over medium heat, and toss with tongs to coat the spaghetti with the fat and finish cooking to al dente, about 1 minute. If the pasta is too dry or starts to stick to the bottom of the pan, add 1 or 2 tsp. of the pasta water. You want the bottom of the pan to be just barely wet. If the pan is too dry, the eggs will scramble when you add them.

Remove the skillet from the heat and pour the eggs over the pasta, tossing quickly and continuously until the eggs thicken and turn to the consistency of a thin custard, 30 seconds to 1 minute. (Tossing constantly is important, as it prevents the eggs from scrambling.)

The sauce should be smooth and creamy, and it should cling to the pasta. Add a little more pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Stir in the Parmigiano and season to taste with salt and pepper (you may not need additional salt, as both guanciale and pancetta can be very salty). Serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta, and Hazelnuts

With every bite, this soothing pasta becomes more and more interesting as the heat from the crushed red pepper and the sweetness from the hazelnuts comes through. A sharp chef’s knife makes quick work of slicing Brussels sprouts.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced; some whole leaves are fine (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup coarsely chopped, toasted hazelnuts, preferably peeled
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper-towel-lined plate. Add the garlic to the skillet and cook, swirling the pan, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Remove and discard the garlic. Add the red pepper flakes, Brussels sprouts, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, tossing with tongs, until the sprouts are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in half of the Parmigiano and the lemon juice and remove from the heat.

Boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, drain the pasta, and then add it to the skillet along with 1/4 cup of the reserved water.

Cook over medium-high heat, tossing and adding more water as needed, until the Brussels sprouts are tender, about 1 minute. Stir in the pancetta and season generously with black pepper. Taste and season with additional salt and lemon juice, if you like. Serve topped with the hazelnuts and the remaining Parmigiano.

Caramelized Onion Risotto

Onions are often used in risotto, but not usually as the main ingredient. In this soothing dish, you get a bite of beautifully browned, sweet, soft caramelized onions in every forkful. Aged Gouda gives the risotto a slightly toasty butterscotch flavor, but the more traditional Parmigiano-Reggiano is also delicious.

• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. yellow onions (about 4 medium), halved through the root and thinly sliced lengthwise
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups arborio rice
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. finely grated aged Gouda or Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 cup on a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Heat the olive oil in a 5-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the onions and reduce the heat to medium. Cook without stirring until the bottom of the pot begins to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp. salt and stir with a wooden spatula. Continue to cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot frequently and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onions are well browned, 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 3-quart saucepan, combine the broth with 2 cups water and set over medium heat until steaming hot.

Transfer the onions to a small bowl, cover, and keep warm. Add about 1/2 cup of the broth mixture to the pot. Scrape the bottom of the pot with the wooden spatula until any stuck-on bits are released. Pour the liquid back into the broth mixture. Wipe out the pot.

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in the pot over medium heat. Add the rice and cook, stirring gently, until glossy and translucent around the edges, about 1 minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed, about 1 minute. Ladle enough broth over the rice to just cover (about 1/2 cup) and simmer, stirring often, until most of the broth has been absorbed (test by running a spoon through the rice; no broth should pool on the pot bottom). Continue to add the broth in this manner, stirring often, until the rice is tender but still has a bit of resistance when you bite into it, 20 to 30 minutes. (You may not need all of the broth.)

Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter, the cheese, and all but 1/3 cup of the onions. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately, topped with the remaining onions.