Apricot Hamantaschen

These filled pastries, tri-cornered to mimic Haman’s hat and served during Purim celebrations, are commonly filled with prunes or poppy seeds, but apricot filling is the author's favorite.

• 
  
  4 cups dried apricots
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  4 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly grated orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)
  
  

Place the apricots in a medium bowl. Add boiling water to cover and set aside to soak for 1 hour.

Whisk together the flour and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk together 2 of the eggs, 1 cup of the sugar, and the lemon zest and orange zest in a large bowl, whisking until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is creamy and foamy. Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture, stirring together with a wooden spoon until combined and a dough forms. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Drain the apricots in a colander, stirring to eliminate the surface water, and then blot dry on paper towels. Transfer them to a chopping board or bowl and finely chop. Mix the apricots, walnuts if using, and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a medium bowl, stirring until well combined.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray two baking sheets with nonstick cooking spray. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured board to 1/4-inch thickness. Cut out 3-inch circles (use a biscuit cutter). Place a generous spoonful of filling in the center of each circle, then fold up three sides so the cookie looks like a 3-cornered hat, pinching the dough edges together but leaving the center open as shown in the photo. Gather the dough scraps and reroll; cut and fill in the same way. Arrange the cookies on the prepared baking sheets.

Mix the remaining 2 eggs with 6 Tbs. cool water, whisking until combined. Lightly brush the cookies with the egg wash, which will give them a nice color. Bake until the pastry is golden brown—20 to 25 minutes. Transfer the cookies from the baking sheets to wire racks to cool.

Matzo Candy with Caramel, Chocolate, and Halva

I ate so much matzo when I lived on a kibbutz in Israel that I wasn’t sure I could ever eat it again—and to be honest, unless it’s loaded with butter and salt, who would want to eat this stuff in the first place. But in this recipe, the smooth, velvety texture of the halva combined with the saltiness of the cracker is the way to eat matzo going forward in life. Big statement, I know.

• 
  
  Olive oil spray
  
  


• 
  
  1 (11-ounce) box unsalted matzo crackers (11 crackers)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup light corn syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. baking soda
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 lb. (1 cup) halva candy
  
  

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Spray 3 baking sheets with olive oil spray.

Lay the matzo out in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets.

Put the butter, brown sugar, corn syrup, and salt in a small saucepan set over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the butter melts. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the mixture is bubbling rapidly, 3 minutes. Add the baking soda, turn off the heat, and stir. The caramel mixture will be thick and bubbly.

Spread the caramel over the top of the matzo crackers, covering their entire surface. Put the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the baking sheets from the oven and immediately sprinkle the chopped chocolate over the caramel-covered matzo. Using a rubber spatula or the back of a spoon, spread the chocolate pieces so that they melt and coat the caramel matzo evenly. Then, while the chocolate is still warm, sprinkle with the halva. Let the matzo cool in the refrigerator for 1 hour or longer.

Break the cooled matzo into smaller pieces, and serve.

Rugelach

These buttery, flaky cookies feature a jewel-like filling of jam and a dusting of chopped pistachios.

For the dough:

• 
  
  10-1/2 oz. (2-1/3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. (1 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 10 pieces
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. cold cream cheese, cut into 10 pieces
  
  

Tip:

For the best results, measure your flour by weight instead of volume. (1 cup of all-purpose flour equals 4-1/2 oz.) If you don’t have a scale, be sure to use the proper technique when filling your measuring cups.

For the filling:

• 
  
  6 Tbs. raspberry or apricot jam
  
  

For the topping:

• 
  
  1 large egg
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. water
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped salted pistachios (1-1/4 oz.)
  
  

Make the dough:

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a large (11-cup or larger) food processor. Pulse briefly to blend the ingredients. Scatter the butter and cream cheese pieces over the dry ingredients. Pulse until the dough begins to come together in large (about 1-inch) clumps.

Divide the dough into four pieces and on a lightly floured surface, knead each until smooth. Shape each into a flat 6x3-inch rectangle and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until well chilled, about 1-1/2 hours. (The dough may be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 1 month before proceeding with the recipe.)

Shape and fill the cookies:

Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll the dough on a piece of lightly floured plastic wrap into a rectangle slightly larger than 5 x13 inches (if refrigerated overnight, let sit at room temperature until pliable enough to roll). Dust with additional flour as needed. Using a sharp knife, trim off the ragged edges to make a 5x13-inch rectangle. Position the dough with one long edge facing you. Using a metal spatula (offset is best), spread evenly with 1-1/2 Tbs. of the jam. Using the plastic wrap as an aid, roll up the dough jelly roll-style beginning with one long side. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. Repeat with remaining dough and jam.

Top and bake the cookies:

Tip:

Make a half-batch of dough if your food processor is small.

Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat the oven to 350ºF. Line two cookie sheets with parchment or nonstick baking liners. In a small bowl, mix the egg and water with a fork until blended.

Unwrap one roll and set on a cutting board. Using a serrated knife and a ruler, cut the roll into 1-1/4-inch-wide pieces. Arrange cookies seam side down 1 inch apart on the cookie sheets. Repeat with the remaining rolls. Lightly brush the tops with the egg mixture (you won’t need it all) and sprinkle with the chopped pistachios. Bake until the rugelach are golden brown, 28 to 30 minutes, swapping the cookie sheets’ positions about halfway through. Let cool on the sheets for about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.

Red-Wine-Braised Brisket with Cremini, Carrots, and Thyme

To get a jump start on this recipe, you can season the brisket up to 1 day ahead.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. sweet paprika
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  8-1/2 to 9 lb. beef brisket (whole brisket or flat and/or point halves), untrimmed of fat
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  6 large yellow onions, diced (about 12 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 15-oz. can tomato purée
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine
  
  


• 
  
  4 large sprigs fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  8 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. cremini or white button mushrooms, quartered if large, halved if small (3 cups)
  
  

In a small bowl, combine the paprika, 1 Tbs. salt, and 1 Tbs. pepper. Rub the mixture all over the brisket. Let rest at room temperature for two hours or cover and refrigerate overnight (bring the meat to room temperature before cooking).

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and pale gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the onions to a large heavy-duty roasting pan and spread them in an even layer. Set the brisket fat side up on the onions (it’s okay if the pieces overlap), cover tightly with heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil), and braise in the oven for 1 hour. As the brisket cooks, it will give off quite a bit of liquid.

Pour the tomato purée and wine around the brisket and add the thyme sprigs. Cover and continue to braise the meat for 2-1/2 hours.

Add the carrots and mushrooms and continue to braise, covered, until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour more.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board and trim the fat. If using a whole brisket or a point half, separate the two layers of meat and trim the fat. With a slotted spoon, move the vegetables to a serving bowl.

Skim the excess fat from the pan juices, strain 2 cups of the juices, and bring to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced to about 1 cup; the sauce should be rich and flavorful. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Slice as much brisket across the grain as you need for the meal and serve with the vegetables and reduced sauce. Wrap the leftover brisket, vegetables, and juices separately. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for 3 to 4 days, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
  
  


• 
  
  4
  stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
  
  


• 
  
  8 large eggs, preferably organic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Brisket and Root Vegetable Salad with Creamy Horseradish Dressing

A delicious destination for leftover brisket, this salad is best with meat from the flat end of the brisket, because it holds its shape better than brisket point. Leave the brisket in long slices or cut it into wide strips, and be sure it’s at room temperature so it won’t be too dense.

• 
  
  4 small golden or red beets (about 2-1/2 inches wide)
  
  


• 
  
  8 small red potatoes (about 2-1/2 inches wide)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup drained prepared horseradish
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. distilled white vinegar; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 medium tart apple, peeled, cored, and minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. minced white onion (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium bulb fennel, cored and very thinly sliced or shaved with a mandoline or vegetable peeler (about 2-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  16 thin slices leftover brisket, at room temperature
  
  

Cut the tails and leaves from the beets but leave about 1 inch of the stems attached. Wash well and put them in a 2-quart saucepan with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until tender when pierced with a skewer, 30 to 35 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, slip off the peels. Slice the beets 1/4 inch thick.

While the beets cook, put the potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan with enough water to cover and 1 Tbs. salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water to cool. When cool enough to handle, peel and slice 1/4 inch thick.

In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream, horseradish, and vinegar. Mix in the apple and onion, if using. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and vinegar.

In a medium bowl, toss the fennel and parsley with 2 Tbs. of the horseradish dressing, the olive oil, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a pinch of pepper.

Arrange the brisket, potatoes, and beets on 4 large plates. Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle with some of the dressing. Pile the fennel on top and serve the remaining dressing on the side.

Slow-Cooker Braised Apricot Chicken with Carrots

This flavorful stew is delicious served over couscous or brown rice pilaf with fresh cilantro or parsley. Feel free to use oil for the butter.

• 
  
  Zest of 1 lemon (yellow part only)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄3- by 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  30 whole dried apricots (preferably with sulfur, for a pretty color)
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup plus 1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 tsp. ground cinnamon
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 tsp. ground coriander
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄8 tsp. ground ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄8 tsp. ground cardamom
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄8 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  20 grinds black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2-1⁄2 lb. bone-in, skinless chicken thighs (about 8 thighs)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2-1⁄4 cups finely chopped white onions (about 2 small)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 Tbs. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup apricot nectar, such as Looza
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup fresh-squeezed, strained lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup low-sodium chicken stock
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup toasted pine nuts, for garnish (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, or mint leaves, for garnish (optional)
  
  

Tip:

To adapt a slow-cooker recipe to a conventional oven, follow these guidelines: add more liquid, to accommodate for greater evaporation; bring the dish to a boil over high heat in a Dutch oven, then cover the pot and put in a 350°F oven. Plan on the dish taking roughly half the time to cook in the oven as it would in the slow cooker.

Place the lemon peel on a piece of cheesecloth, form into a “purse,” and secure with kitchen twine. Add it to the slow cooker, along with the carrots and apricots. Place the flour and all of the spices in a large bowl and mix well. Add the chicken and coat well, shaking off the excess and reserving any remaining flour.

Heat 1 Tbs. of oil and the butter in a 10-inch sauté pan over medium high heat. When the butter is melted, brown the chicken in two batches, about 11 minutes total; add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil if the pan becomes dry. Transfer the chicken to the slow cooker.

Add the onions and garlic to the hot pan, and cook until the onions are softened, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and reserved flour and whisk well until the flour disappears, about a minute. Add the nectar, lemon juice, and stock; bring to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then pour the sauce over the chicken in the slow cooker. Submerge the chicken.

Cover and cook on low until the chicken is cooked through and the carrots are tender, 5 to 6 hours. Serve, garnishing each portion with nuts and herbs, if desired.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. Daniel Leader's grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that he remembers with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since he enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach him how to make it. When he finally got around to coming up with his own babka recipe, he tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Babka is often made with cream cheese, but Daniel likes mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 
  
  2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  

Tip:

Best-quality European chocolate, such as Callebaut, is essential for this babka.

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.

Cheese Blintzes with Macerated Strawberries

The light, eggy blintz is as much a part of traditional Jewish cooking as the crêpe is to the French. For this rendition, fresh strawberries steeped in orange juice are served over the cheese-filled crêpes, but you could also top with blueberries or caramelized apple slices.

For the crêpes

• 
  
  2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  4 large eggs, beaten
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. melted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. salt
  
  

For the macerated strawberries

• 
  
  1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh orange juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. sugar
  
  

For the farmer cheese filling

• 
  
  1 large egg
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. farmer cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  
  

For cooking and assembly

• 
  
  2 Tbs. butter, more for the pan
  
  

Make the batter

Put the flour, eggs, milk, butter, and salt in a blender and blend on high speed until smooth, pausing once or twice to scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Macerate the strawberries

In a large bowl, combine the strawberries, orange juice, and sugar, and stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Make the cheese filling

In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg with a whisk. Add the cheese and whisk to combine. Add the sugar, flour, and lemon zest and whisk to combine.

Cook the crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with an 8-inch base or a 10-inch nonstick frying pan with an 8-inch base over medium-high heat until it’s hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle. Using a folded paper towel, grease the pan with about 1 tsp. butter. The butter should sizzle upon contact but not instantly turn brown. If it does, reduce the heat as necessary.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan while simultaneously lifting the pan from the heat and tilting and turning it in all directions so the batter spreads evenly across the bottom in a thin circle. If the crêpe has any holes in it, quickly add a few drops of batter to fill them in.

Cook until the edges begin to dry and lift from the sides of the pan and the bottom is nicely browned (lift up an edge with a small silicone spatula or butter knife), about 1 minute. Use the spatula and your fingers to flip the crêpe over. Cook until the second side is browned, about 15 seconds more.

Slide the crêpe from the pan onto a large plate or cooling rack. Repeat
with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat and spreading more butter
in the pan every two or three crêpes, or whenever the pan begins to look
a bit dry. You can stack the crêpes on the plate as they’re done; they
won’t stick. The crêpes will soften as they cool. (Your first crêpes may
not turn out perfectly but will still be delicious!)

Assemble the crêpes

Choose the 12 best-looking crêpes (save any remaining for another use). Spoon a heaping Tbs. of the filling into the center of each crêpe. Fold one long edge in over the filling, followed by the two short edges, and finally, the second long edge (like a burrito). Arrange the blintzes seam side down on a large plate or baking sheet. (The blintzes can be prepared several hours ahead up to this point. Keep refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to heat and serve.)

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Arrange half of the blintzes in the pan seam side up in a single layer and cook until light brown on the bottom, 2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until light brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray. Repeat with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and blintzes. To serve, arrange two blintzes on each of six plates and top with the strawberries.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
  
  


• 
  
  4
  stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
  
  


• 
  
  8 large eggs, preferably organic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Chocolate Babka

This is the ultimate in yeasted coffee cakes. Eastern European in origin, it's made with a yeasted dough enriched with butter and eggs. The dough is left to rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next morning, it's rolled out, slathered with more butter, and dusted with sugar, chocolate, and nuts. The adorned dough is rolled into a log, cut into spirals, and fitted, free-form, into a tube or Bundt pan. After baking, those spirals give the babka its delicious nooks and crannies filled with melting chocolate and crunchy nuts, which make for an amazing breakfast cake.

For the sponge:

• 
  
  1 package active dry yeast
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup Kamut flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup millet flour
  
  

For the dough:

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

To finish the babka:

• 
  
  Butter and sugar for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pecan halves
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

Make the sponge:

Pour the yeast into the bowl of a standing mixer. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat to a temperature that is warm to the touch, about 100°F, and pour it over the yeast. Stir together with a spoon to combine. Add the honey, Kamut flour, and millet flour and stir again. Add the all-purpose flour to the top of the sticky dough, then the salt. Do not stir. Let the sponge sit for approximately 30 minutes, until the flour begins to crack and the sponge seeps upward.

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

After 30 minutes, crack the eggs and add them to the sponge. Put the bowl onto the mixer with the hook attachment and mix on low until the flour is incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Watch the dough to see if it’s sticking to the sides. If it is, add additional allpurpose flour, 1 Tbs. at a time—it may take as much as 1/2 cup until the dough is pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Once the dough has formed a cohesive mass and is pulling away from the sides, turn the mixer to medium and set a 5-minute timer. The dough will be moister than many bread doughs and will mostly cohere around the hook, occasionally letting off a tail of dough. Listen for the slapping noises as the dough goes around and around, releasing and incorporating the tail of dough. Halfway through the mixing time, stop the mixer and scrape the dough thoroughly from the hook. Mix the dough for 5 minutes more, making sure to set a timer.

After 10 minutes the dough should be a supple, elastic mass. Add the butter 1 Tbs. at a time and mix on medium speed, waiting to add the next piece until the first one is fully incorporated. The dough will come apart and back together again as the butter is incorporated into the dough. Once all the butter is added, the dough should be shiny and soft.

For the first rise, scrape the dough into a buttered bowl, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and leave to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. The dough is ready when a floured finger stuck into it leaves an impression. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough into itself and gather it back into a ball. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Finish the babka:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rub a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with butter, then lightly dust it with sugar. Toast the pecans in the pan until golden, about 15 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt.

Dust a work surface with flour. Remove the challah dough from the refrigerator, flour the top, and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll into a rectangle about 10 inches by 16 inches.

Rub the softened butter evenly over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the sugar mix over the butter, then break up the pecans a bit and sprinkle them on top of the sugar. Sprinkle the chocolate last. Starting at the 16-inch length, roll the dough into a tight log. Cut the log into 13 pieces, each about 1-1/4 inches thick.

Place the pieces in the pan in a haphazard way, so that as the dough proofs the odd-shaped spaces are filled in. Here is one way: Create the bottom layer by laying 4 circles at the bottom of the pan with the spirals facing up. Set a circle upright in between each of those circles. For the top layer, set 3 circles in areas that will create empty pockets. Slice the last 2 circles in half and fit them into the gaps that remain. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The babka should be a beautiful golden-brown on top and have risen to the top or slightly over the top of the pan. Let it cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before placing a rack on top of the pan and turning the pan upside down to get the babka out of its pan and onto the rack to cool.

Chocolate Babka

This is the ultimate in yeasted coffee cakes. Eastern European in origin, it's made with a yeasted dough enriched with butter and eggs. The dough is left to rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next morning, it's rolled out, slathered with more butter, and dusted with sugar, chocolate, and nuts. The adorned dough is rolled into a log, cut into spirals, and fitted, free-form, into a tube or Bundt pan. After baking, those spirals give the babka its delicious nooks and crannies filled with melting chocolate and crunchy nuts, which make for an amazing breakfast cake.

For the sponge:

• 
  
  1 package active dry yeast
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup Kamut flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup millet flour
  
  

For the dough:

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

To finish the babka:

• 
  
  Butter and sugar for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pecan halves
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

Make the sponge:

Pour the yeast into the bowl of a standing mixer. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat to a temperature that is warm to the touch, about 100°F, and pour it over the yeast. Stir together with a spoon to combine. Add the honey, Kamut flour, and millet flour and stir again. Add the all-purpose flour to the top of the sticky dough, then the salt. Do not stir. Let the sponge sit for approximately 30 minutes, until the flour begins to crack and the sponge seeps upward.

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

After 30 minutes, crack the eggs and add them to the sponge. Put the bowl onto the mixer with the hook attachment and mix on low until the flour is incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Watch the dough to see if it’s sticking to the sides. If it is, add additional allpurpose flour, 1 Tbs. at a time—it may take as much as 1/2 cup until the dough is pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Once the dough has formed a cohesive mass and is pulling away from the sides, turn the mixer to medium and set a 5-minute timer. The dough will be moister than many bread doughs and will mostly cohere around the hook, occasionally letting off a tail of dough. Listen for the slapping noises as the dough goes around and around, releasing and incorporating the tail of dough. Halfway through the mixing time, stop the mixer and scrape the dough thoroughly from the hook. Mix the dough for 5 minutes more, making sure to set a timer.

After 10 minutes the dough should be a supple, elastic mass. Add the butter 1 Tbs. at a time and mix on medium speed, waiting to add the next piece until the first one is fully incorporated. The dough will come apart and back together again as the butter is incorporated into the dough. Once all the butter is added, the dough should be shiny and soft.

For the first rise, scrape the dough into a buttered bowl, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and leave to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. The dough is ready when a floured finger stuck into it leaves an impression. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough into itself and gather it back into a ball. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Finish the babka:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rub a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with butter, then lightly dust it with sugar. Toast the pecans in the pan until golden, about 15 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt.

Dust a work surface with flour. Remove the challah dough from the refrigerator, flour the top, and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll into a rectangle about 10 inches by 16 inches.

Rub the softened butter evenly over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the sugar mix over the butter, then break up the pecans a bit and sprinkle them on top of the sugar. Sprinkle the chocolate last. Starting at the 16-inch length, roll the dough into a tight log. Cut the log into 13 pieces, each about 1-1/4 inches thick.

Place the pieces in the pan in a haphazard way, so that as the dough proofs the odd-shaped spaces are filled in. Here is one way: Create the bottom layer by laying 4 circles at the bottom of the pan with the spirals facing up. Set a circle upright in between each of those circles. For the top layer, set 3 circles in areas that will create empty pockets. Slice the last 2 circles in half and fit them into the gaps that remain. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The babka should be a beautiful golden-brown on top and have risen to the top or slightly over the top of the pan. Let it cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before placing a rack on top of the pan and turning the pan upside down to get the babka out of its pan and onto the rack to cool.

Vegetarian Chopped Liver

This rich mushroom-walnut pâté is especially good with pumpernickel or rye bread.

• 
  
  2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced into half moons
  
  


• 
  
  2 fresh thyme sprigs
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, cut into medium dice (4-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps cut into medium dice (2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. dry sherry
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup walnuts, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1 small clove garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and roughly chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
  
  


• 
  
  Flaky sea salt, for garnish
  
  


• 
  
  Thinly sliced scallion greens or chives, for garnish
  
  

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is dark brown, 15 to 20 minutes—it should be darker than golden, but not black. Stir in the cremini and shiitake, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft and golden and the liquid they release has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the sherry and cook, scraping up the browned bits from the pan, until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.


Transfer half of the mushroom mixture to a food processor. Add the walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, zest, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Process until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the remaining mushroom mixture and the eggs. Pulse until coarsely chopped. Season to taste with more salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Serve in a crock or bowl or mounded on a platter, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with flaky sea salt and scallion greens or chives.

Cheese Blintzes with Macerated Strawberries

The light, eggy blintz is as much a part of traditional Jewish cooking as the crêpe is to the French. For this rendition, fresh strawberries steeped in orange juice are served over the cheese-filled crêpes, but you could also top with blueberries or caramelized apple slices.

For the crêpes

• 
  
  2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  4 large eggs, beaten
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. melted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. salt
  
  

For the macerated strawberries

• 
  
  1 lb. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. fresh orange juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. sugar
  
  

For the farmer cheese filling

• 
  
  1 large egg
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. farmer cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  
  

For cooking and assembly

• 
  
  2 Tbs. butter, more for the pan
  
  

Make the batter

Put the flour, eggs, milk, butter, and salt in a blender and blend on high speed until smooth, pausing once or twice to scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Macerate the strawberries

In a large bowl, combine the strawberries, orange juice, and sugar, and stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Make the cheese filling

In a large bowl, lightly beat the egg with a whisk. Add the cheese and whisk to combine. Add the sugar, flour, and lemon zest and whisk to combine.

Cook the crêpes

Heat a crêpe pan with an 8-inch base or a 10-inch nonstick frying pan with an 8-inch base over medium-high heat until it’s hot enough for a drop of water to sizzle. Using a folded paper towel, grease the pan with about 1 tsp. butter. The butter should sizzle upon contact but not instantly turn brown. If it does, reduce the heat as necessary.

Using a ladle or measuring cup, pour 1/4 cup of the batter into the center of the pan while simultaneously lifting the pan from the heat and tilting and turning it in all directions so the batter spreads evenly across the bottom in a thin circle. If the crêpe has any holes in it, quickly add a few drops of batter to fill them in.

Cook until the edges begin to dry and lift from the sides of the pan and the bottom is nicely browned (lift up an edge with a small silicone spatula or butter knife), about 1 minute. Use the spatula and your fingers to flip the crêpe over. Cook until the second side is browned, about 15 seconds more.

Slide the crêpe from the pan onto a large plate or cooling rack. Repeat
with the remaining batter, adjusting the heat and spreading more butter
in the pan every two or three crêpes, or whenever the pan begins to look
a bit dry. You can stack the crêpes on the plate as they’re done; they
won’t stick. The crêpes will soften as they cool. (Your first crêpes may
not turn out perfectly but will still be delicious!)

Assemble the crêpes

Choose the 12 best-looking crêpes (save any remaining for another use). Spoon a heaping Tbs. of the filling into the center of each crêpe. Fold one long edge in over the filling, followed by the two short edges, and finally, the second long edge (like a burrito). Arrange the blintzes seam side down on a large plate or baking sheet. (The blintzes can be prepared several hours ahead up to this point. Keep refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to heat and serve.)

Melt 2 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-low heat. Arrange half of the blintzes in the pan seam side up in a single layer and cook until light brown on the bottom, 2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until light brown on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray. Repeat with the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and blintzes. To serve, arrange two blintzes on each of six plates and top with the strawberries.

Boiceville Bialys

I spend a lot of time in New York City, selling bread at the Union Square Greenmarket®. Whenever I can, I make the trip a little farther downtown to the Lower East Side. First, I’ll stop at the Doughnut Plant at 379 Grand Street for one of the incredible yeasted doughnuts, and then I’ll move a few doors down, to 367, where Kossar’s Bialys has been producing superior bialys, bagels, bulkas, pletzels, and other kosher bread specialties for more than 65 years.
I enjoy watching Kossar’s bakers expertly pull each tagelach (the Yiddish word for “dough ball”) into the characteristic shape before filling all their indented centers with fresh onions and poppy seeds. Our production schedule at Bread Alone has never allowed me to make bialys, but this hasn’t stopped me from making them at home, attempting every time to achieve the same lightness and flavor that they achieve at Kossar’s. My recipe is pretty faithful to the original. The bialys come out light and bubbly, with a thin but wonderfully crisp crust. When you make them, don’t forget to prick the indented centers with a fork. If you don’t, they will bubble up.
If you want to serve these for breakfast, you can make the dough the night before, let it rise, and then refrigerate the shaped dough balls. While the oven heats the next morning, make the filling and make the wells in the balls. Bake and serve warm, with smoked salmon.

For the filling

• 
  
  2 tsp. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. poppy seeds
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Ground black pepper, to taste
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  1-1⁄2 cups room temperature water (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  1 package (2-1⁄4 tsp.) instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  17.63 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  

Make the filling

Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, poppy seeds, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent but hasn’t yet started to color, 5 to 7 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

Make the dough

Pour the water into the bowl of a standing mixer. Add the yeast, flour, and salt and stir with a rubber spatula just until all the water is absorbed and a rough dough forms. Attach the dough hook and knead the dough on medium speed until it is springy and smooth, 5 to 6 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

Line a baker’s peel or a rimless baking sheet with parchment paper. Set another piece of parchment paper on the counter.

Turn the dough out onto the parchment paper on the counter and use a bench scraper or sharp chef’s knife to divide it into 10 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a tight round.

Transfer half of the rounds, seam sides down, to the lined peel or baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches between each one. Transfer the other half to the other piece of parchment paper. Lightly dust with flour, drape with plastic wrap, and let stand until increased in size about 1-1⁄2 times, about 1-1⁄2 hours.

One hour before baking, place a baking stone on the middle rack of the oven. Heat the oven to 450°F.

Press both thumbs into the center of each bialy, creating a shallow well. Don’t make the center too thin—think about making a mini pizza. Pierce the wells with the tines of a fork to prevent them from bubbling up in the oven. When all of the bialys are shaped, fill each one with a heaping teaspoon of the filling.

Slide the first batch of bialys, the ones on the peel or baking sheet, onto the baking stone. Bake until golden brown, 7 to 9 minutes.

Slide the peel or the rimless baking sheet under the parchment paper to remove the bialys from the oven. Cool for about 5 minutes on a wire rack, and then peel them off the parchment paper. Repeat with the second batch of bialys, sliding them, still on the parchment, onto the peel or baking sheet, and then sliding them, still on the parchment, onto the baking stone. Bialys are best eaten on the day they are baked. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for 15 to 30 minutes, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Goat Cheese Blintzes

For the crepes:

• 
  
  2 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup regular or low-fat goat milk (or cow milk, if you must)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  Goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must), for greasing the skillet
  
  

For the filling:

• 
  
  8 ounces fresh chevre or soft goat cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg yolk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)
  
  

Make the crepes:

Whir the two eggs and the milk in a blender (preferably) or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until creamy. Add the flour and salt; blend or process until smooth.

Lightly grease an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little butter on some wadded up paper towel. Set the skillet over medium heat, let it warm up a bit, then pour in 2 Tbs. of the flour batter. Swirl and shake the skillet so that the batter evenly covers its bottom. Cook until set, about 30 seconds. Flip the crepe, then cook for another 30 seconds or so, just until firm. Transfer the crepe from the skillet to a plate or cutting board; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Butter the skillet again, add 2 more Tbs. of batter, and keep going, repeating ad nauseam, until you have 16 crepes.

Fill and cook the blintzes

For the filling, stir the fresh chèvre or soft goat cheese, egg yolk, sugar, and vanilla in a big bowl until creamy. Set one of the crepes on your work surface, mound 2 tsp. of this cheese mixture in the middle of the crepe, flatten the filling a little, fold the two sides of the crepe to your left and right over the filling, fold up the bottom, the part nearest you. Now roll the crepe away from you so that it folds up into a little packet. Set aside under a clean kitchen towel and continue filling all the crepes.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the butter and about half the blintzes. Fry them on both sides until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes in all, turning once. Transfer these to a serving platter, add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter to the skillet, and fry the rest of them.

Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots

As an organic baker specializing in whole grain breads, I often wondered what challah would taste like if made with stone-ground whole wheat flour. This may sound outlandish, considering that challah is the whitest of white breads. But it makes sense if you remember that observant Jews baked and ate this bread hundreds of years ago, before millers began to sift the bran from flour, and all flour was whole wheat. So I went ahead and developed this recipe. Since I was already bucking the norm, I decided to add some chopped apricots to temper the bite of the whole wheat.
Instead of braiding the dough, you may divide it and bake it in two greased 9 by 5-inch loaf pans or shape it into a round and bake it on a baking stone. Loaf pan challah is wonderful sliced and battered to make French toast. 

• 
  
  8.47 oz. (2 cups) whole wheat flour, preferably stone-ground
  
  


• 
  
  7.23 oz. (1-3⁄4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2-1⁄4 tsp. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  1-1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3⁄4 cup room temperature water (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup honey
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄4 cup finely chopped dried apricots
  
  

Combine the whole wheat flour, all-purpose flour, yeast, sea salt, water, 2 of the eggs, olive oil, and honey in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook. Give the mixture a few turns with a rubber spatula to moisten all of the ingredients, and then knead on medium-high speed until your dough is smooth, 4 to 6 minutes. It will cling to the hook and clear the sides of the bowl. Add the apricots and knead until they’re just incorporated, another minute or two.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until it has doubled in volume, 1-1⁄2 to 2 hours.

Gently press on the dough while it’s still in the bowl to deflate it, and then turn it onto a lightly floured countertop. Divide it into 3 equal portions and, with the palms of your hands, roll each portion into a 15-inch-long rope, just the way you used to roll clay into ropes when you were a kid.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the 3 dough ropes side by side on the sheet. Pinch the ropes together at one end, tucking them under the loaf. Braid the ropes together, right over center and then left over center, as tightly as you can, until the ropes are too short to braid. Pinch the ends of the braid together and tuck them under the loaf as you did with the other end.

Dust the loaf lightly with flour, drape with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in volume, 1 to 2 hours (alternatively, refrigerate the covered loaf overnight and bring it to room temperature before letting it rise completely).

Heat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the remaining egg and brush it all over the top of the loaf. Bake the challah until the top is deep golden brown and the bottom makes a hollow sound when tapped, about 40 minutes. Transfer the bread to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing and serving. Whole Wheat Challah with Apricots will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days. For longer storage, freeze in a zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for an hour or two, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 5 minutes before serving.

Breakfast Casserole

Lightly sweet, egg-rich challah makes this creamy egg casserole even more full-flavored. Baking it in a hot-water bath allows it to cook gently and retain its moistness. The recipe, adapted from our TV show Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, has been simplified for the home cook.

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed; sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  4 cups packed baby spinach, long stems removed (about 3 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup finely chopped whole scallions (about 5)
  
  


• 
  
  4
  stalks green garlic (root ends trimmed and any tough green parts
  discarded), cut into 1/4-inch pieces, or 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 3
  more whole scallions, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. brioche or challah bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (from five to six 3/4-inch slices)
  
  


• 
  
  8 large eggs, preferably organic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh marjoram, chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Butter a 2-1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 2 inches deep; preferably with handles) and set aside.

Have a kettle of hot water ready, and a larger baking pan in which the baking dish fits comfortably with enough room to remove the dish easily with silicone oven mitts.

In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat, add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking up the meat into small pieces, until cooked through, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove to a large bowl and set aside.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs. butter. Add all the vegetables and 1/4 tsp. salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and bright green, about 5 minutes. Add the vegetable mixture and the cubed bread to the bowl with the sausage and mix well.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, marjoram, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper.

Add the egg mixture to the bowl with the sausage-vegetable mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until all the ingredients are combined. Set the buttered baking dish inside the larger baking pan and pour the contents of the bowl into the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with a piece of foil cut slightly larger than the size of the dish.

Place the baking pan in the oven, then pour enough hot water from the kettle to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish to create a water bath.

Bake for 1 hour. If the mixture is still loose, remove the foil from the baking dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the center is firm.

Remove the pan from the oven and carefully remove the dish from the water bath using silicone oven mitts.

Let the casserole cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Black and White Cookies

Like New York City, the spiritual home to these cookies, my sources and inspiration for them are the ultimate melting pot: a Seinfeld episode, an email from food maven Arthur Schwartz, a recipe from the legendary Zabar's, and George Greenstein's comprehensive tome, Secrets of a Jewish Baker.

For the cookies:

• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup cake flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. baking powder
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. table salt
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. whole or low-fat milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  Grated zest of 1/2 lemon, preferably organic
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  

For the icings:

• 
  
  2 cups plus 2 Tbs. powdered sugar, or more if needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. light corn syrup
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
  
  

To make the cookies:

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

In a small bowl, whisk together the all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, and salt. In another small bowl, mix together the milk, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and lemon zest.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until completely smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Stir in half of the flour mixture, followed by the milk mixture, then stir in the remaining flour mixture and beat until the batter is smooth.

Drop 2 Tbs. batter in mounds spaced 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway through baking, until the cookies feel just set in the centers, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on the baking sheets.

To make the icings:

In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 cups confectioners' sugar with 2 tsp. of the corn syrup, the lemon juice, the vanilla, and 3 Tbs. water until smooth.

Transfer half of the mixture to a small bowl and whisk in the cocoa and remaining 2 tsp. corn syrup to make the "black" icing. Add up to 2 teaspoons more water, if necessary, to make the icing spreadable; it should not be too thin, so begin by adding 1 teaspoon and add another teaspoon only if needed. Whisk the remaining 2 Tbs. confectioners' sugar into the white icing. The two icings should have the same consistency: thick, but spreadable. (If the white icing is too thin, add a bit more confectioners' sugar.)

With a small icing spatula or a butter knife, spread white icing over one half of the flat (bottom) side of each cookie. Spread black icing over the other half. Let the icing set for a few minutes before serving.

Chocolate Babka with Mascarpone

Babka is an Old World Jewish favorite that has become an almost mythical bakery item because it is so difficult to find these days. Daniel Leader's grandmother was a great baker who regularly turned out rugelach, mandelbrot, macaroons, and honey cake. She made a fabulous chocolate babka that he remembers with a mixture of nostalgia and regret, since he enjoyed it so much but never asked her to teach him how to make it. When he finally got around to coming up with his own babka recipe, he tried to make it just as wonderfully chocolatey and crumbly as hers. Babka is often made with cream cheese, but Daniel likes mascarpone for the hint of nutty flavor that it gives to the dough, but you may use regular cream cheese in its place if it’s more convenient.

• 
  
  2⁄3 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. mascarpone cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sugar
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄2 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  20 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. (1-1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened and cut into bits
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  

Tip:

Best-quality European chocolate, such as Callebaut, is essential for this babka.

Combine the milk, mascarpone cheese, 1⁄2 cup of the sugar, eggs, 1 of the egg yolks, vanilla, and salt in the bowl of a standing mixer. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the flour and yeast and stir a few times until a rough dough forms. Mix on low speed for a few minutes with the dough hook.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the butter, 1 piece at a time, until it is all incorporated. Turn the mixer to medium speed and knead until it comes together in a sticky but cohesive mass, 4 to 5 minutes.

Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan. Combine the chocolate and the remaining 1⁄2 cup sugar in a medium bowl.

Deflate the dough by gently pressing down on it with your palms. Turn it onto a lightly floured countertop and roll it into a rough 16 by 8-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you.

Sprinkle the chocolate and sugar mixture over the dough. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll the dough into a snug log. Pinch the outside edges to seal.

Fold the log in half and twist it once in the center (giving it a shape like an awareness ribbon). Gently place the folded and twisted dough into the prepared pan. Lightly drape with plastic wrap and let rise until increased in volume by 50 percent, 1 to 2 hours (alter-natively, refrigerate the dough overnight and bring to room temperature before letting it rise and baking it).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly beat the cream and the remaining egg yolk together in a small bowl. Brush the top of the babka with the egg wash. Bake until the top of the babka is deep golden brown and baked through, about 40 minutes. Overturn the loaf onto a wire rack, and re-invert. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Chocolate Babka will keep at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 days. For longer storage, wrap in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil for up to 1 month. To defrost, place on the countertop for several hours, and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 10 minutes before serving.