Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sherry vinegar
  
  

For the spaetzle:

• 
  
  1 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  

For the mushrooms:

• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 
  
  4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Dill sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Beef Short Rib Pierogi (Pierogi z Miesem)

You can serve these hearty pierogi either boiled or fried. Boiled,  they're nice and chewy, while frying them in butter makes them crisp and puffed, delicious with a strong Polish beer. Serve with a salad or roasted vegetables for a hearty supper.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh curly parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
  
  


• 
  
  1 small stale dinner roll or piece of white bread (about 1 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Heat the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add half of the onion, the carrot, parsley, and 1/4 tsp. salt; cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 2/3 cup water and the short ribs, bring to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven until the short ribs are tender, about 1-1/2 hours.

Let the short ribs cool briefly; meanwhile, soak the roll in enough water to cover for 5 minutes, and then squeeze dry. Remove and discard the short rib bones and any cartilage. Cut the meat into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks. Stir the soaked bread into the pot to soak up the thick gravy and stir the meat back into the pot.

Fit a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch grinding plate according to manufacturer’s directions. Grind the meat mixture into a large bowl. (Alternatively, pulse the meat mixture in a food processor until finely ground, 5 or 6 one-second pulses. Don’t overgrind or it will turn into a paste.)

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining onion and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the ground meat mixture, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until heated through and the onion is soft, about 5 minutes; the mixture will be moist but not wet. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Beer-Braised Bratwursts with Pickle Juice Slaw

A tangy cabbage and carrot slaw is a knockout topping for juicy bratwursts. Long pretzel rolls make an unexpected substitute for the hoagie rolls, if you can find them.

For the slaw

• 
  
  1 cup very thinly sliced red cabbage
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. pickle brine (from a jar of pickles, preferably dill)
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. cider vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups very thinly sliced green cabbage
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup grated carrots
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup finely chopped white onion
  
  

For the bratwursts

• 
  
  2 12-oz. bottles lager beer, such as Budweiser
  
  


• 
  
  4 uncooked bratwursts
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped white onion
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. spicy brown mustard, such as Gulden’s
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil for brushing
  
  


• 
  
  4 hoagie rolls, split but not all the way through
  
  

Make the slaw

Soak the red cabbage in a bowl of ice water for 15 minutes to prevent its color from bleeding. Drain and pat dry. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, pickle brine, vinegar, sugar, 1/4 tsp. salt, and a grind of pepper. Add the red and green cabbage, carrot, and onion and toss well to combine. Refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.

Make the bratwursts

In a 10- to 11-inch skillet, combine the beer, bratwursts, and onion. Add enough water to barely cover the bratwursts and bring just to a simmer over medium heat. Cover, remove from the heat, and let sit for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, position a rack about 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high.

In a small bowl, combine the butter, mustard, and 4 tsp. of the bratwurst-cooking liquid; set aside.

Arrange the bratwursts on a broiler pan and lightly brush them with oil. Broil until goldenbrown, turning once, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Put the buns on a baking sheet cut sides up and broil until lightly toasted, about 30 seconds.

Spread the insides of the buns with the butter mixture and put the bratwursts in the rolls. Top with the slaw and serve.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sweet vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Pretzel-Crusted Chicken Breasts with Mustard-Dill Dipping Sauce

Ground pretzels not only make a great crunchy-salty coating for chicken, they also make this dish a family-friendly favorite you'll get plenty of requests for.

• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups pretzels (not low-sodium)
  
  


• 
  
  3 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup vegetable oil
  
  

Put the flour in a wide, shallow bowl. In another wide, shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs and 1 Tbs. of the mustard. Process the pretzels in a food processor until a coarse flour forms, about 30 seconds. Transfer the pretzel flour to a third wide, shallow bowl. Line up the flour, egg, and pretzel bowls in that order.


Put the chicken on a cutting board, and holding your knife parallel to the board, split each breast in half horizontally. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken lightly with pepper. Dredge both sides of the chicken in the flour, then the egg, and then the pretzel flour, coating well and shaking off the excess. Transfer to a baking sheet and refrigerate for 5 minutes.


Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the remaining 1/4 cup mustard with the mayonnaise, dill, honey, and 1/8 tsp. black pepper; set aside.


Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add three of the chicken breast pieces. Cook until the first side is dark brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the second side is golden-brown, about 2 minutes more; if the chicken seems to be browning too fast, reduce the heat to medium. Transfer to a clean cutting board and cover to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining chicken.


Slice the chicken on the diagonal. Divide the slices among four dinner plates and serve with the dipping sauce.

Cabbage and Mushroom Pierogi (Pierogi z Kapusta i Grzybami)

These meatless pierogi are a Christmas tradition but they're delicious on any cold night; they can be served either boiled or fried.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 2-lb. bag refrigerated sauerkraut
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan with 2 cups water and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the mushrooms until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms out of the liquid, transfer to a cutting board, and chop them. Strain the liquid though a fine sieve lined with a damp paper towel set over a small bowl. Rinse and drain the sauerkraut in a colander, pressing on it to release as much liquid as possible.

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sauerkraut, mushrooms, and the mushroom cooking liquid. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has evaporated and the sauerkraut is dry, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and cook, stirring often, until the flavors are blended, about 2 minutes more. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Cheesehead Brats

Inspired by Green Bay Packers fans, these bratwursts are simmered in beer and onions, then grilled and served with sauerkraut and mustard. 

• 
  
  2 12-oz. cans beer, preferably the cheap stuff
  
  


• 
  
  2 large onions, thinly sliced
  
  


• 
  
  6 uncooked bratwursts (if you have big eaters, you might want to double this number)
  
  


• 
  
  6 good-quality hot dog buns or small submarine rolls (again, for big eaters, see above) 
  
  


• 
  
  Brown mustard
  
  


• 
  
  One 1-lb. bag refrigerated sauerkraut, drained
  
  

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

Combine the beer, onions, and brats in a large saucepan. If your grill has a side burner, feel free to do this process there. Otherwise, place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the brats are just cooked through, usually about 8 minutes. Remember, we’re going to continue cooking these brats on the grill.

Remove the brats from the pot and place them on the grill. Grill the brats for 8 to 10 minutes, turning them frequently to brown them evenly on all sides. When they are done, slide them into your buns and top with mustard and sauerkraut.

Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.

• 
  
  3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram
  
  


• 
  
  2 1-inch wide strips orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup sweet vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard
  
  

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.

Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.

In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.

Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.

Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.

Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.

Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.

Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.

After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).

Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

German Potato Salad

Sure, the Classic Potato Salad recipe is a winner, but for your next cookout, turn up the tangy dial and impress your guests with another classic: German Potato Salad, or create your own potato salad recipe with our new Potato Salad Recipe Maker.

For the dressing

• 
  
  1/4 cup white wine vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. grainy mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. caraway seeds, lightly toasted and ground
  
  

For the salad

• 
  
  1/4 cup plain rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3-1/2 lb. medium waxy potatoes, such as Yukon Gold or red, scrubbed clean
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. bacon, cooked and crumbled
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup small-diced sweet onion
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup small-diced dill pickles
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

Make the dressing

Whisk the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the oil until combined. Whisk in the caraway seeds.

Make the salad

Combine the rice vinegar and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Let sit to dissolve the salt. Put the potatoes and 2 Tbs. salt in a 6-quart pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook the potatoes until barely tender when poked with a fork or skewer, 20 to 25 minutes. If the potatoes aren't all the same size, remove them as they are cooked.

Gently drain the potatoes in a colander and set aside until just cool enough to handle. Using a paring knife, peel the potatoes by scraping off the skin. Cut the potatoes into 3/4-inch chunks. Add the potatoes to the bowl with the rice vinegar and gently stir with a spatula to coat. With your fingers, pull apart any pieces that are stuck together.

Gently fold the bacon, onions, pickles and parsley into the potatoes. Whisk the vinaigrette back together and fold enough of it into the potatoes to generously coat them (you may not need all of the dressing). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve while still slightly warm, or at room temperature.

Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sherry vinegar
  
  

For the spaetzle:

• 
  
  1 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  

For the mushrooms:

• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 
  
  4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Dill sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Beef Short Rib Pierogi (Pierogi z Miesem)

You can serve these hearty pierogi either boiled or fried. Boiled,  they're nice and chewy, while frying them in butter makes them crisp and puffed, delicious with a strong Polish beer. Serve with a salad or roasted vegetables for a hearty supper.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh curly parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
  
  


• 
  
  1 small stale dinner roll or piece of white bread (about 1 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Heat the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add half of the onion, the carrot, parsley, and 1/4 tsp. salt; cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 2/3 cup water and the short ribs, bring to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven until the short ribs are tender, about 1-1/2 hours.

Let the short ribs cool briefly; meanwhile, soak the roll in enough water to cover for 5 minutes, and then squeeze dry. Remove and discard the short rib bones and any cartilage. Cut the meat into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks. Stir the soaked bread into the pot to soak up the thick gravy and stir the meat back into the pot.

Fit a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch grinding plate according to manufacturer’s directions. Grind the meat mixture into a large bowl. (Alternatively, pulse the meat mixture in a food processor until finely ground, 5 or 6 one-second pulses. Don’t overgrind or it will turn into a paste.)

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining onion and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the ground meat mixture, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until heated through and the onion is soft, about 5 minutes; the mixture will be moist but not wet. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Pretzel-Crusted Chicken Breasts with Mustard-Dill Dipping Sauce

Ground pretzels not only make a great crunchy-salty coating for chicken, they also make this dish a family-friendly favorite you'll get plenty of requests for.

• 
  
  1/2 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup plus 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups pretzels (not low-sodium)
  
  


• 
  
  3 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1-1/2 lb.)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup mayonnaise
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup vegetable oil
  
  

Put the flour in a wide, shallow bowl. In another wide, shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs and 1 Tbs. of the mustard. Process the pretzels in a food processor until a coarse flour forms, about 30 seconds. Transfer the pretzel flour to a third wide, shallow bowl. Line up the flour, egg, and pretzel bowls in that order.


Put the chicken on a cutting board, and holding your knife parallel to the board, split each breast in half horizontally. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken lightly with pepper. Dredge both sides of the chicken in the flour, then the egg, and then the pretzel flour, coating well and shaking off the excess. Transfer to a baking sheet and refrigerate for 5 minutes.


Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the remaining 1/4 cup mustard with the mayonnaise, dill, honey, and 1/8 tsp. black pepper; set aside.


Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add three of the chicken breast pieces. Cook until the first side is dark brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the second side is golden-brown, about 2 minutes more; if the chicken seems to be browning too fast, reduce the heat to medium. Transfer to a clean cutting board and cover to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining chicken.


Slice the chicken on the diagonal. Divide the slices among four dinner plates and serve with the dipping sauce.

Bavarian-Style Soft Pretzels

And an oil mister comes in handy because it releases less oil than a can of cooking spray does. Whichever you use, mist only as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking or drying out; too much will make the pretzels greasy.

• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. active dry yeast
  
  


• 
  
  19-1/2 oz. (4-1/2 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  Oil mister filled with vegetable oil (or cooking spray)
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 Tbs. food-grade lye microbeads, or 3 Tbs. baking soda
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg, lightly beaten (only if using baking soda instead of lye)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. pretzel or coarse salt
  
  

Tip:

A few key ingredients will help you make excellent pretzels at home. Food-grade lye microbeads are essential for a flavorful, mahogany-brown crust (you can also use baking soda, but the results won’t be the same). Pretzel salt is a bright white compressed salt that adheres well to the unbaked dough; kosher or coarse sea salt is a good substitution.

Make the dough

Tip:

An oil mister comes in handy for making pretzels because it releases less oil than a can of cooking spray does. Whichever you use, mist only as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking or drying out; too much will make the pretzels greasy.

In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or in a large mixing bowl with a whisk), combine the yeast and 1-1/2 cups lukewarm (90°F to 95°F) water and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. (The mixture should smell yeasty. If it doesn’t, start over with a fresh batch of active dry yeast.) Add the flour, sugar, oil, and salt. Mix on low speed (or with a wooden spoon) until the ingredients are hydrated and form a coarse ball of dough, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more water as needed, 1 tsp. at a time, if all of the flour is not incorporated into the dough.

Increase the speed to medium low and mix (or transfer the dough to a work surface misted with oil and knead by hand) until the dough becomes smooth, supple, and elastic, about 3 minutes. The dough should be soft but only slightly tacky; if it seems sticky or very tacky, sprinkle in more flour, as needed. If using a stand mixer, transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface and knead by hand for a few more seconds. Form the dough into a ball, transfer to a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until it’s about 1-1/2 times its original size, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Lightly mist a work surface with oil and transfer the dough to it. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces (about 6 oz. each). Form each piece into a smooth, round ball, lightly mist with oil, and cover with plastic wrap; let rest on the work surface at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.

Shape the pretzels

Line a large baking sheet with lightly oiled parchment or a silicone baking mat and set aside.

Lightly mist a work surface and, using your palms and fingers, roll each piece of dough on the work surface into a rope that’s about 30 inches long and 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick. If the dough resists or shrinks back, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on other pieces; short rests will let the gluten relax enough to allow for the full rollout.

Working with 1 dough rope at a time, shape it into a large U that’s 5 to 7 inches across with the curve closest to you. Take the 2 ends of the rope in your fingers and cross one over the other so the ends overhang the cross by about 3 inches. Twist the ends of the rope, shortening the overhang to about 2 inches. Next, pull the twisted end section toward you and fold it down over the bottom curve of the U so the ends are a couple of inches apart and overhang the bottom by about 1/4 inch.

Carefully transfer the pretzels to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them evenly and reshaping as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours and up to 3 weeks.

Dip the pretzels

If using lye, put on protective gloves. Pour 2 cups cool water into a small stainless-steel bowl just wide enough to hold one pretzel.

Add the lye and stir with a stainless-steel whisk or spoon until completely dissolved.

If using baking soda, bring 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the baking soda, and stir until completely dissolved. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to lukewarm, about 30 minutes.

Using stainless-steel tongs or a stainless-steel slotted spoon, dip one pretzel at a time in the lye (or baking soda) bath and soak for 5 seconds. If the liquid doesn’t completely cover the pretzel, turn it over and submerge the other side for 5 seconds. Remove the pretzel from the liquid, allowing the excess to drip off, and return it to the baking sheet. To discard the lye bath, slowly pour it down the sink drain and flush with cool running water for a few seconds. If you wore non-disposable gloves, wash them in cool soapy water and rinse well. If you used a baking soda bath, brush the tops and sides of the pretzels with some of the beaten egg.

Let the pretzels thaw and rise at room temperature until they are soft and puffy, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

Bake the pretzels

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Brush baking-soda-dipped pretzels once more with egg.

Lightly sprinkle the pretzels with the salt. Set the baking sheet of pretzels on another baking sheet (double-pan them) to prevent the bottoms of the pretzels from browning too quickly. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until rich, deep mahogany-brown for lye-dipped pretzels or dark golden-brown for baking-soda-dipped pretzels, 20 to 22 minutes. Transfer the pretzels to a rack and cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Oven-Roasted Sausages with Riesling, Apples, and Pears

Preparing this dish will fill your home with the most intoxicating aroma ever. The smell alone may be enough to inspire the occasional home cook to prepare dinner on a regular basis. A mixture of orange juice and wine is infused with ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and anise seed, then poured over sautéed apples, pears, and sweet Italian sausage and baked. The meal tastes just as wonderful as it smells.

• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  3 Bosc pears, peeled, halved, and cored
  
  


• 
  
  3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, halved, and cored
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice, from about 2 to 3 oranges, or store-bought prepared orange juice
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup late-harvest wine, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. grated orange zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 slices fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  2 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄8 tsp. anise seed, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  9 sweet Italian pork sausages, pricked with a fork
  
  

Heat the oven to 375°F.

Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and cook until it is melted. Add the pears and apples, cut side down, in a single layer, and cook until they are golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and place the pears and apples in a large baking dish in a single layer. Season with salt.

In the meantime, add the orange juice, late-harvest wine, orange zest, ginger, cloves, cinnamon stick, and anise seed to the frying pan over high heat. Bring to a boil and immediately remove from the heat. Discard the ginger, cinnamon stick, and cloves.

Add the sausages to the baking dish with the pears and apples. Pour the orange juice and wine mixture over the pears, apples, and sausages and season with salt. Cover loosely with foil and bake until the sausages are cooked and the pears and apples are tender but still hold their shape, 25 to 35 minutes.

To serve, cut each sausage in half on the diagonal. Place 3 pieces of sausage and half of a pear and apple on each plate. Drizzle with the pan juices and serve immediately.

Jelly-Filled Doughnuts

This recipe uses a leaner, less sugary dough than your typical American jelly doughnut. For the best results, use either homemade preserves or best-quality local jam you can find. If your jam is very chunky, purée it in a blender or small food processor so that it will pass without effort through the tip of a pastry bag and into the doughnut.

• 
  
  17.62 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄3 cup sugar, plus more for coating the doughnuts
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. plus 1-1⁄2 tsp. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  3⁄4 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. raspberry jam
  
  

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, milk, butter, eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, and vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (the hook is not needed here, since this is a rather loose batter) and mix on low speed until smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Brush a thin layer of vegetable oil on the paper. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and divide into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a round and then flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Place the rounds seam side down on the oiled paper. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Place a few of the doughnuts in the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them in the pot.

Fry until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another minute or two. Don’t worry that there is a line of light-colored dough around the perimeter of each doughnut. This will be the “soft spot” where you will insert the tip of a pastry bag to pipe in some jam. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, roll them in sugar, and repeat with the remaining dough, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

To fill the doughnuts, place the jam in a bowl and stir it thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Scrape it into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Insert the tip into the soft spot of each doughnut and squeeze about 1 tsp. of the jam into the center. Serve immediately.

Chocolate Babka

This is the ultimate in yeasted coffee cakes. Eastern European in origin, it's made with a yeasted dough enriched with butter and eggs. The dough is left to rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next morning, it's rolled out, slathered with more butter, and dusted with sugar, chocolate, and nuts. The adorned dough is rolled into a log, cut into spirals, and fitted, free-form, into a tube or Bundt pan. After baking, those spirals give the babka its delicious nooks and crannies filled with melting chocolate and crunchy nuts, which make for an amazing breakfast cake.

For the sponge:

• 
  
  1 package active dry yeast
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup Kamut flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup millet flour
  
  

For the dough:

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

To finish the babka:

• 
  
  Butter and sugar for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pecan halves
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

Make the sponge:

Pour the yeast into the bowl of a standing mixer. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat to a temperature that is warm to the touch, about 100°F, and pour it over the yeast. Stir together with a spoon to combine. Add the honey, Kamut flour, and millet flour and stir again. Add the all-purpose flour to the top of the sticky dough, then the salt. Do not stir. Let the sponge sit for approximately 30 minutes, until the flour begins to crack and the sponge seeps upward.

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

After 30 minutes, crack the eggs and add them to the sponge. Put the bowl onto the mixer with the hook attachment and mix on low until the flour is incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Watch the dough to see if it’s sticking to the sides. If it is, add additional allpurpose flour, 1 Tbs. at a time—it may take as much as 1/2 cup until the dough is pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Once the dough has formed a cohesive mass and is pulling away from the sides, turn the mixer to medium and set a 5-minute timer. The dough will be moister than many bread doughs and will mostly cohere around the hook, occasionally letting off a tail of dough. Listen for the slapping noises as the dough goes around and around, releasing and incorporating the tail of dough. Halfway through the mixing time, stop the mixer and scrape the dough thoroughly from the hook. Mix the dough for 5 minutes more, making sure to set a timer.

After 10 minutes the dough should be a supple, elastic mass. Add the butter 1 Tbs. at a time and mix on medium speed, waiting to add the next piece until the first one is fully incorporated. The dough will come apart and back together again as the butter is incorporated into the dough. Once all the butter is added, the dough should be shiny and soft.

For the first rise, scrape the dough into a buttered bowl, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and leave to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. The dough is ready when a floured finger stuck into it leaves an impression. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough into itself and gather it back into a ball. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Finish the babka:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rub a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with butter, then lightly dust it with sugar. Toast the pecans in the pan until golden, about 15 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt.

Dust a work surface with flour. Remove the challah dough from the refrigerator, flour the top, and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll into a rectangle about 10 inches by 16 inches.

Rub the softened butter evenly over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the sugar mix over the butter, then break up the pecans a bit and sprinkle them on top of the sugar. Sprinkle the chocolate last. Starting at the 16-inch length, roll the dough into a tight log. Cut the log into 13 pieces, each about 1-1/4 inches thick.

Place the pieces in the pan in a haphazard way, so that as the dough proofs the odd-shaped spaces are filled in. Here is one way: Create the bottom layer by laying 4 circles at the bottom of the pan with the spirals facing up. Set a circle upright in between each of those circles. For the top layer, set 3 circles in areas that will create empty pockets. Slice the last 2 circles in half and fit them into the gaps that remain. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The babka should be a beautiful golden-brown on top and have risen to the top or slightly over the top of the pan. Let it cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before placing a rack on top of the pan and turning the pan upside down to get the babka out of its pan and onto the rack to cool.

Chocolate Babka

This is the ultimate in yeasted coffee cakes. Eastern European in origin, it's made with a yeasted dough enriched with butter and eggs. The dough is left to rise overnight in the refrigerator. The next morning, it's rolled out, slathered with more butter, and dusted with sugar, chocolate, and nuts. The adorned dough is rolled into a log, cut into spirals, and fitted, free-form, into a tube or Bundt pan. After baking, those spirals give the babka its delicious nooks and crannies filled with melting chocolate and crunchy nuts, which make for an amazing breakfast cake.

For the sponge:

• 
  
  1 package active dry yeast
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. honey
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup Kamut flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup millet flour
  
  

For the dough:

• 
  
  2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for mixing
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 eggs
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

To finish the babka:

• 
  
  Butter and sugar for the pan
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup pecan halves
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped into 1/4- and 1/2-inch pieces
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 oz. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  
  

Make the sponge:

Pour the yeast into the bowl of a standing mixer. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over low heat to a temperature that is warm to the touch, about 100°F, and pour it over the yeast. Stir together with a spoon to combine. Add the honey, Kamut flour, and millet flour and stir again. Add the all-purpose flour to the top of the sticky dough, then the salt. Do not stir. Let the sponge sit for approximately 30 minutes, until the flour begins to crack and the sponge seeps upward.

Make the dough:

While the sponge sits, set the eggs, in their shells, into a bowl of hot water to bring them to room temperature.

After 30 minutes, crack the eggs and add them to the sponge. Put the bowl onto the mixer with the hook attachment and mix on low until the flour is incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Watch the dough to see if it’s sticking to the sides. If it is, add additional allpurpose flour, 1 Tbs. at a time—it may take as much as 1/2 cup until the dough is pulling away from the sides of the bowl. Once the dough has formed a cohesive mass and is pulling away from the sides, turn the mixer to medium and set a 5-minute timer. The dough will be moister than many bread doughs and will mostly cohere around the hook, occasionally letting off a tail of dough. Listen for the slapping noises as the dough goes around and around, releasing and incorporating the tail of dough. Halfway through the mixing time, stop the mixer and scrape the dough thoroughly from the hook. Mix the dough for 5 minutes more, making sure to set a timer.

After 10 minutes the dough should be a supple, elastic mass. Add the butter 1 Tbs. at a time and mix on medium speed, waiting to add the next piece until the first one is fully incorporated. The dough will come apart and back together again as the butter is incorporated into the dough. Once all the butter is added, the dough should be shiny and soft.

For the first rise, scrape the dough into a buttered bowl, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and leave to rise for 2 hours, or until doubled in size. The dough is ready when a floured finger stuck into it leaves an impression. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently fold the dough into itself and gather it back into a ball. Cover the bowl with a towel or plastic wrap and chill overnight.

Finish the babka:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Rub a 10-inch tube or Bundt pan with butter, then lightly dust it with sugar. Toast the pecans in the pan until golden, about 15 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and salt.

Dust a work surface with flour. Remove the challah dough from the refrigerator, flour the top, and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll into a rectangle about 10 inches by 16 inches.

Rub the softened butter evenly over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the sugar mix over the butter, then break up the pecans a bit and sprinkle them on top of the sugar. Sprinkle the chocolate last. Starting at the 16-inch length, roll the dough into a tight log. Cut the log into 13 pieces, each about 1-1/4 inches thick.

Place the pieces in the pan in a haphazard way, so that as the dough proofs the odd-shaped spaces are filled in. Here is one way: Create the bottom layer by laying 4 circles at the bottom of the pan with the spirals facing up. Set a circle upright in between each of those circles. For the top layer, set 3 circles in areas that will create empty pockets. Slice the last 2 circles in half and fit them into the gaps that remain. Cover the pan with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The babka should be a beautiful golden-brown on top and have risen to the top or slightly over the top of the pan. Let it cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before placing a rack on top of the pan and turning the pan upside down to get the babka out of its pan and onto the rack to cool.

Jelly-Filled Doughnuts

This recipe uses a leaner, less sugary dough than your typical American jelly doughnut. For the best results, use either homemade preserves or best-quality local jam you can find. If your jam is very chunky, purée it in a blender or small food processor so that it will pass without effort through the tip of a pastry bag and into the doughnut.

• 
  
  17.62 oz. (4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1⁄3 cup sugar, plus more for coating the doughnuts
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. plus 1-1⁄2 tsp. instant yeast
  
  


• 
  
  3⁄4 tsp. fine sea salt or kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup room temperature milk (70°F to 78°F)
  
  


• 
  
  2.5 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 large egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. grated lemon zest
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  Vegetable oil, for frying
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. raspberry jam
  
  

Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, salt, milk, butter, eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, and vanilla in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (the hook is not needed here, since this is a rather loose batter) and mix on low speed until smooth, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl or dough-rising container, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Brush a thin layer of vegetable oil on the paper. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured countertop and divide into 16 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a round and then flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Place the rounds seam side down on the oiled paper. Let stand uncovered at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Add 3 inches of oil to a deep pot. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot and heat the oil over medium heat until it reaches 350°F. Line a large platter or baking sheet with several layers of paper towels.

Place a few of the doughnuts in the hot oil, being careful not to crowd them in the pot.

Fry until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Turn and continue to fry until golden on both sides, another minute or two. Don’t worry that there is a line of light-colored dough around the perimeter of each doughnut. This will be the “soft spot” where you will insert the tip of a pastry bag to pipe in some jam. Drain the cooked doughnuts on the paper towels, roll them in sugar, and repeat with the remaining dough, keeping an eye on the thermometer to make sure the oil stays at a steady 350°F and adjusting the heat as necessary.

To fill the doughnuts, place the jam in a bowl and stir it thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Scrape it into a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip. Insert the tip into the soft spot of each doughnut and squeeze about 1 tsp. of the jam into the center. Serve immediately.

Goat Cheese Blintzes

For the crepes:

• 
  
  2 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup regular or low-fat goat milk (or cow milk, if you must)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. salt
  
  


• 
  
  Goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must), for greasing the skillet
  
  

For the filling:

• 
  
  8 ounces fresh chevre or soft goat cheese
  
  


• 
  
  1 large egg yolk
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  
  


• 
  
  4 Tbs. goat butter (or unsalted cow butter, if you must)
  
  

Make the crepes:

Whir the two eggs and the milk in a blender (preferably) or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until creamy. Add the flour and salt; blend or process until smooth.

Lightly grease an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little butter on some wadded up paper towel. Set the skillet over medium heat, let it warm up a bit, then pour in 2 Tbs. of the flour batter. Swirl and shake the skillet so that the batter evenly covers its bottom. Cook until set, about 30 seconds. Flip the crepe, then cook for another 30 seconds or so, just until firm. Transfer the crepe from the skillet to a plate or cutting board; cover with a clean kitchen towel. Butter the skillet again, add 2 more Tbs. of batter, and keep going, repeating ad nauseam, until you have 16 crepes.

Fill and cook the blintzes

For the filling, stir the fresh chèvre or soft goat cheese, egg yolk, sugar, and vanilla in a big bowl until creamy. Set one of the crepes on your work surface, mound 2 tsp. of this cheese mixture in the middle of the crepe, flatten the filling a little, fold the two sides of the crepe to your left and right over the filling, fold up the bottom, the part nearest you. Now roll the crepe away from you so that it folds up into a little packet. Set aside under a clean kitchen towel and continue filling all the crepes.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add 2 Tbs. of the butter and about half the blintzes. Fry them on both sides until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes in all, turning once. Transfer these to a serving platter, add the remaining 2 Tbs. butter to the skillet, and fry the rest of them.