Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade

This modern update on homey beef Stroganoff elevates it to a restaurant-worthy steak dinner: grilled flatiron steak on a bed of spaetzle with caramelized shallots and earthy, fragrant black trumpet mushrooms, topped with a drizzle of crème fraîche

For the shallot marmalade:

• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. shallots, sliced 1/8 inch thick (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup granulated sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup sherry vinegar
  
  

For the spaetzle:

• 
  
  1 cup sour cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup whole milk
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  4 tsp. kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. freshly cracked black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
  
  

For the mushrooms:

• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5-1/4 oz. black trumpet mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced (3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. finely chopped shallots
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. sherry vinegar; more to taste
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 tsp. white truffle oil (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  

For the cooking the steaks and serving:

• 
  
  4 6-oz. beef flatiron steaks
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream, whisked to to loosen
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Dill sprigs, for garnish
  
  

Make the shallot marmalade:

Melt the butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Make the spaetzle:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Have ready a large bowl of ice water.

Purée the sour cream, milk, eggs, salt, and cracked pepper in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into large bowl and fold in the flour.

To cook the spaetzle, place a spaetzle maker over the boiling water. Push the dough through the holes, letting it fall into the water below. (If you don’t have a spaetzle maker, use a rubber spatula to push the dough through the holes of a colander set over the pot of water.) The dough will form small dumplings as it drops into the water. Allow the spaetzle to rise to the surface and float for about 30 seconds before transferring it to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Let cool completely, about 5 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a large bowl, toss with the oil, and reserve.

Cook the mushrooms:

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and continue to cook until the pan is almost dry, about 1 minute.

Take the pan off the heat and drizzle in the truffle oil (if using). Season to taste with salt and pepper, and a touch of vinegar, if necessary. Keep warm.

Grill the steaks and serve:

Season the steak generously with salt and pepper. Heat a grill pan (or a large cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat until very hot. Working in batches if necessary, grill the beef until medium rare (130°F to 135°F on an instant-read thermometer), 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the
shallot marmalade and cook until heated through and thinned, about 2
minutes. Add the spaetzle and the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until
heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.

Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve the steak over the
spaetzle, drizzled with the crème fraîche and garnished with the dill
sprigs.

Beef Short Rib Pierogi (Pierogi z Miesem)

You can serve these hearty pierogi either boiled or fried. Boiled,  they're nice and chewy, while frying them in butter makes them crisp and puffed, delicious with a strong Polish beer. Serve with a salad or roasted vegetables for a hearty supper.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium carrot, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh curly parsley
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
  
  


• 
  
  1 small stale dinner roll or piece of white bread (about 1 oz.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Heat the oil in a 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add half of the onion, the carrot, parsley, and 1/4 tsp. salt; cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 2/3 cup water and the short ribs, bring to a simmer, cover, and braise in the oven until the short ribs are tender, about 1-1/2 hours.

Let the short ribs cool briefly; meanwhile, soak the roll in enough water to cover for 5 minutes, and then squeeze dry. Remove and discard the short rib bones and any cartilage. Cut the meat into 1-1/2- to 2-inch chunks. Stir the soaked bread into the pot to soak up the thick gravy and stir the meat back into the pot.

Fit a meat grinder with a 1/4-inch grinding plate according to manufacturer’s directions. Grind the meat mixture into a large bowl. (Alternatively, pulse the meat mixture in a food processor until finely ground, 5 or 6 one-second pulses. Don’t overgrind or it will turn into a paste.)

Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining onion and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the ground meat mixture, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/4 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring often, until heated through and the onion is soft, about 5 minutes; the mixture will be moist but not wet. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Creamy Rotini with Zucchini, Tomato, and Red Pepper

The season’s most plentiful vegetables come together in this satisfying pasta dish. To make it even heartier, try adding diced grilled chicken.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 small white onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  4 ripe Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1-3/4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano finely grated with a rasp (3/4 cup); more for serving
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. rotini, or other short corkscrew pasta
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, zucchini, bell pepper, garlic, 2 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are barely tender, about 7 minutes. Pour in the heavy cream and simmer until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 7 minutes. Stir in the cheese, basil, and lemon zest.

Meanwhile, boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente.

Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Pour in the sauce and toss until the pasta is evenly coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with additional cheese, and serve.

Pasta with Clams, Broccoli Raab, and Chile

Sweet Manila clams balance slightly bitter broccoli raab in this satisfying dish. Boiling the pasta and broccoli raab together saves time and makes the pasta itself more flavorful.

• 
  
  12 oz. thin spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  1 large bunch broccoli raab, trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1-in. pieces
  
  


• 
  
  5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup bottled clam juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 lb. Manila clams, well-rinsed
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  

In an 8-quart pot, bring about 5-1/2 quarts of well-salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until almost tender, about 3 minutes. Add the broccoli raab and cook until the pasta is al dente and the broccoli raab is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a heavy-duty 6-quart pot, heat 2 Tbs. of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the clam juice and clams. Cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams open, about 5 minutes (discard any that don’t open).

Reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, drain the pasta and broccoli raab and add them to the clam pot. Toss well and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the remaining 3 Tbs. of oil and add pasta water to moisten, if needed. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Spaghetti and Meatballs

Plenty of oregano and a touch of fennel makes these tender meatballs super flavorful. This recipe uses a higher proportion of pork than beef or veal in the meatballs because it gives the best texture, but meatloaf mix—equal parts beef, veal, and pork—is an easy-to-find substitute.

For the sauce

• 
  
  1/2 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 large yellow onion, chopped (1-1/2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium cloves garlic, crushed
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1 bay leaf
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. tomato paste
  
  


• 
  
  2 26- to 28-oz. containers diced tomatoes, preferably Pomì brand
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the meatballs

• 
  
  1 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  8 oz. ground pork
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. 80% lean ground beef
  
  


• 
  
  6 oz. ground veal
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup coarse fresh white breadcrumbs
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano or 1-1/2 tsp. dry oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. freshly ground fennel seed
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

For the pasta

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  

Make the sauce

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano, and bay leaf. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft, 6 to 10 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until darkened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice and 1 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil and then simmer over low heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce has reduced by about a third, 40 to 60 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and season to taste with salt. Keep warm, covered. (The sauce can also be refrigerated for up to 5 days, or frozen for 1 month.)

Make the meatballs

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 450°F. Coat the bottom and sides of an 8x8-inch baking dish with the olive oil. Set aside.

Combine the ground meats, breadcrumbs, ricotta, eggs, parsley, oregano, fennel seed, red pepper flakes, and 2 tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix gently but thoroughly with your hands.

Divide the meat into 16 golf-ball-size portions using a 2-oz., 2-inch-diameter ice cream scoop or your hands; roll with wet hands to make them round. Arrange the balls snugly in the baking dish.

Bake the meatballs until they register about 90°F on an instant-read thermometer and are firm to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes. (If you’ve made the tomato sauce ahead, heat it while the meatballs are cooking.)

Remove the meatballs from the oven and drain excess fat, if there is any, from the pan. Ladle half of the sauce over them, return them to the oven, and continue to bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted into one reads 165°F, about 15 minutes. (The meatballs can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 2 weeks.)

Cook the pasta

Bring a large covered pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil.

Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes less than package timing for al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the pasta water and drain.

Return the pasta to the pot and mix with the remaining sauce. Add 1 cup pasta water to thin the sauce and cook over medium heat until the pasta is al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Add more pasta water if necessary, and season to taste with salt.

Transfer the spaghetti to a large heated serving bowl. Top with the meatballs and their sauce and serve.

Mushroom Ragoût over Creamy Polenta

A mix of mushrooms contributes deep, earthy flavor to this vegetarian main dish. Instant polenta, with a flavor boost from mascarpone and Parmigiano-Reggiano, helps keep the cooking time short.

• 
  
  1/2 oz. dried porcini (about 1/2 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium shallots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 lb. mixed fresh mushrooms (shiitake, oyster, cremini, hen of the woods), trimmed and coarsely chopped (10 to 12 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup dry vermouth
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. heavy cream
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as tarragon, parsley, thyme, chives, and sage
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup instant polenta
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup mascarpone
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  

In a small bowl, soak the porcini in 1-1/2 cups warm water until softened, about 10 minutes. Lift the mushrooms out and reserve 1 cup of the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms.

Meanwhile, in an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 1 Tbs. of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms and 1 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms start to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the porcini and cook until the mushrooms are very tender and release their liquid, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the vermouth and cook until all the liquid is evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved cup of porcini liquid, leaving any sediment behind in the measuring cup, and cook until reduced to about 3/4 cup, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream and 3 Tbs. of the herbs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Bring 3-1/2 cups of water to a boil in a 4-quart heavy-duty saucepan over medium-high heat. Add 1-1/2 tsp. salt and then gradually whisk in the polenta. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the polenta absorbs the water and thickens, about 3 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 Tbs. butter and the mascarpone. Add the Parmigiano and stir until combined. Serve the polenta topped with the mushroom ragoût and sprinkled with the remaining 1 Tbs. herbs.

Spaghetti with Brussels Sprouts, Pancetta, and Hazelnuts

With every bite, this soothing pasta becomes more and more interesting as the heat from the crushed red pepper and the sweetness from the hazelnuts comes through. A sharp chef’s knife makes quick work of slicing Brussels sprouts.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  5 oz. pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  10 oz. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced; some whole leaves are fine (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 lb. dried spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup coarsely chopped, toasted hazelnuts, preferably peeled
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a paper-towel-lined plate. Add the garlic to the skillet and cook, swirling the pan, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Remove and discard the garlic. Add the red pepper flakes, Brussels sprouts, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cook, tossing with tongs, until the sprouts are crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in half of the Parmigiano and the lemon juice and remove from the heat.

Boil the pasta according to package directions until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, drain the pasta, and then add it to the skillet along with 1/4 cup of the reserved water.

Cook over medium-high heat, tossing and adding more water as needed, until the Brussels sprouts are tender, about 1 minute. Stir in the pancetta and season generously with black pepper. Taste and season with additional salt and lemon juice, if you like. Serve topped with the hazelnuts and the remaining Parmigiano.

Goat Cheese Gnocchi and Zasugo (Pork & Short Rib Braise)

Sugo is a long-simmered Italian sauce that often includes meats, such as pork or beef. Chef Estes's delicious version is aptly called "zasugo," after her Sonoma county-based restaurant Zazu. This rich, tender meat sauce ladled over feathery-light goat cheese gnocchi will satisfy your innermost desires for warmth and comfort.

For the zasugo

• 
  
  5 lb. meaty bone-in beef short ribs
  
  


• 
  
  3 lb. bone-in pork shoulder
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium onions, chopped (about 2 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium carrots, chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  3 medium stalks celery, chopped (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  6 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped (about 2 Tbs.)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup dry red wine
  
  


• 
  
  2 (28 oz.) cans diced tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups lower-sodium chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. chile oil, preferably Calabrian (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  2 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  

For the gnocchi

• 
  
  1 lb. fresh goat cheese, crumbled
  
  


• 
  
  2 large eggs, lightly beaten
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, more for the work surface and baking sheet
  
  


• 
  
  Extra-virgin olive oil, for the cooked gnocchi
  
  

For serving

• 
  
  12 oz. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  
  


• 
  
  7 oz. (7 packed cups) baby arugula
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated  (1/2 cup on a rasp grater)
  
  

Make the zasagu

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Season the meat generously with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a 7-quart Dutch oven or heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat until it's shimmering hot. Sear the pork shoulder on all sides until browned and caramelized, about 6 minutes. Remove the meat to a large plate. Sear the beef short ribs, in batches if necessary, on all sides until browned and caramelized, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer the ribs to the plate.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions, carrots, and celery to the pot and cook, stirring often, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine, stirring to scrape up any browned bits, and cook until reduced by half. Return the meat to the pot, add the tomatoes, chicken broth, chile oil, bay leaves, oregano, and red pepper flakes.  Cover and bake until the meat is very tender and pulls away from bone easily, 3- to 3-1/2 hours.

Make the gnocchi

Combine the goat cheese, eggs, and a pinch of salt and pepper in a medium bowl, Using an electric mixer, beat on medium speed until blended, scraping down sides of the bowl as necessary.  Add the flour, 2 to 3 tablespoons at a time, beating on low speed between additions, until it is absorbed and a soft, pliable dough begins to form. You may not need all the flour. The dough should be moist and slightly sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and form it into a ball. Cut the ball into quarters. Cover three of the dough pieces in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Roll the remaining piece of dough into a 1-inch thick rope, about 20 to 24 inches long, dusting with flour as needed. Using a sharp knife, cut the rope into 3/4-inch pieces and transfer them to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces. If desired, roll each piece over a gnocchi paddle to make ridges. Lightly dust the gnocchi with flour and let rest at room temperature for about 10 minutes.

Shred the zasagu

Remove the pot from the oven. Transfer the meat to a large bowl, and using tongs, pull off and discard the skin, fat, cartilage, and bones. Separate the meat into medium-size chunks with the tongs.

Skim the fat from the top of the liquid in the pot and return the meat to the pot. Add the butter and swirl the pot until the butter is melted and blended with the braising liquid. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, cover, and keep warm over low heat.

Cook the gnocchi

Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of well-salted water to a boil.

Set aside a large bowl for the gnocchi. Drop as many gnocchi into the boiling water as will fit without crowding. When the gnocchi rise to the top, continue cooking until tender, for another 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the reserved bowl. Drizzle with a little olive oil and gently stir with a rubber spatula to coat. Repeat this procedure with the remaining gnocchi.

To serve

Using tongs, transfer the meat to a deep serving dish. Spoon some of the braising liquid over the gnocchi and toss to coat. Spoon the gnocchi over the meat, and pour the remaining braising liquid over the top.

Toss the arugula with the olive oil in a large bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Arrange the arugula on top of the meat and gnocchi and garnish with the cheese.

Sesame Noodles with Chicken

This Chinese-restaurant favorite becomes a main dish with the addition of browned chicken tenders. For more color and flavor, add some thinly sliced red pepper or grated carrots.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. dried plain or whole-grain spaghetti
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. Asian sesame oil
  
  


• 
  
  4 medium cloves garlic, peeled
  
  


• 
  
  2/3 cup creamy peanut butter
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup less-sodium ginger-flavored soy sauce
  
  


• 
  
  6 Tbs. rice vinegar
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup light or dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 lb. chicken tenders
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. peanut oil
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  6 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
  
  

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti and cook according to package directions until the pasta is al dente. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water until cool. Transfer the pasta to a large bowl, and toss with 1 Tbs. of the sesame oil.

In a food processor, pulse the garlic until roughly chopped. Add the remaining 5 Tbs. sesame oil, and the peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar, brown sugar, and 1-1/2 tsp. salt. Process until smooth, stopping as necessary to scrape down the bowl, about 30 seconds. Set aside.

Trim off any exposed tendon ends from the wide tips of the tenders, if necessary. Season the tenders with 3/4 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Heat the peanut oil in a in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Cook the tenders until well browned on both sides and just cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces. Add the chicken to the spaghetti along with half of the scallions.

Pour about 1-1/4 cups of the dressing over the pasta and chicken and toss to coat. Add more dressing to taste—you may not need to use it all. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with the remaining scallions, and serve.

Fusilli with Peas and Feta

Flavored with a good dose of dill and tangy feta, this bright green pasta is a delicious way to celebrate spring.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. fresh or frozen peas (about 3 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried fusilli pasta
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. feta, finely crumbled (about 1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Lemon wedges for serving
  
  

Tip:

If starting with peas in the pod, you’ll need about 3 lb. before shelling.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat.

In a 3-quart saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil over high heat. Add the peas and cook until crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, remove and reserve 1 cup of the peas. Transfer the broth and the remaining peas to a blender. Add the olive oil, all but 1 tsp. of the dill, 1-1/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and blend until smooth. It’s fine if the sauce looks thin at this point.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Toss the pasta with the sauce, the reserved peas, and 3/4 cup of the feta. Serve garnished with the remaining 1/4 cup feta and 1 tsp. dill, with lemon wedges on the side.

Swiss Chard and Ricotta Dumplings

Don’t let the Swiss chard fool you; there’s very little that’s healthy about this dish from Portland, Oregon, chef Christopher Israel. But who cares about healthy? What you get if you make this is a bowlful of green-flecked, cheesy dumplings swimming in a pool of butter. It’s also a fun dish to make because so much of it is based on your own sense of touch. Be sure to drain the ricotta cheese overnight before you start the dumplings (if you don’t, the dumplings will require more flour, and they’ll be heavier).

• 
  
  2 cups ricotta cheese, set over a strainer lined with cheesecloth and drained overnight in the refrigerator
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup blanched Swiss chard, squeezed dry and chopped
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
  
  


• 
  
  2 eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
  
  


• 
  
  3 to 4 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  

In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, chard, Parmesan, 2 Tbs. salt, the nutmeg, eggs, and yolks with a large rubber spatula. Mix as thoroughly as possible before adding the flour: once you add the flour you want to mix it as little as possible or the dumplings will be tough and gluey.

Add the flour 1/4 cup at a time and work it in gently with the rubber spatula. Study the dough as you go: is it very sticky? You don’t want it super dry but you want to be able to roll it later to form the dumplings. Stop adding flour when the dough reaches a rollable texture.

Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (during which time it will continue to stiffen).

When you’re ready to roll the dumplings, flour a board and your hands. Remove the dough to the board and sprinkle some flour on it. Roll the dough into a long rod, approximately 1/2 inch thick. Cut the rod into 1-inch-long dumplings.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season lightly with salt. Drop the dumplings in and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until they float.

Melt the butter in a medium-size pan and lift the dumplings from the boiling water into the pan to finish, tossing them gently. Serve immediately.

Corned Beef

For a classic St. Patrick's Day dinner, serve the corned beef with mashed potatoes and buttered cabbage. The thickness of your cut of beef will determine how long it needs to stay in the brine: A fat whole top round roast will take up to 2 weeks, but a relatively thin brisket will take only 4 days.

For the brine:

• 
  
  2-1/2 lb. sea salt
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups packed dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup coriander seeds
  
  


• 
  
  24 juniper berries
  
  


• 
  
  12 black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  12 allspice berries
  
  


• 
  
  4 whole cloves
  
  


• 
  
  2 cardamom pods
  
  


• 
  
  6 bay leaves
  
  

To cook the beef:

• 
  
  6-1/2- to 81/2-lb. piece boneless brisket, top round, or bottom round, trimmed of any fat
  
  


• 
  
  2 large onions, peeled and halved
  
  


• 
  
  2 large carrots, peeled and halved
  
  


• 
  
  1 celery rib
  
  


• 
  
  12 black peppercorns
  
  


• 
  
  2 bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  2 parsley stems
  
  

Brine the beef:

In a large, lidded pot, bring 4-1/2 quarts of water to a boil. Add the salt and sugar and bring back to a boil.

Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan until almost smoking and throw in the coriander, juniper, peppecorns, allspice, cloves and cardamom. Take off the heat and let the spices toast, shaking the pan a few times so they toast evenly. Tie the spices in a piece of cheesecloth or a clean dishtowel, then drop into the boiling water. Keep the water boiling for 15 minutes to dissolve the salt and sugar and make the liquid very salty. Then remove from the heat, pour in 6 cups ice-cold water, and let cool.

Add the meat and bay leaves to the brine, making sure the meat is completely immersed, and cover tightly. Refrigerate, turning the meat every so often, until the meat is fully cured, about 4 days for brisket or up to 2 weeks for a whole top round roast.

Cook the beef:

When you're ready to serve the beef, remove it from its brine. Put it in a large pot with the onions, carrots, celery, peppercorns, bay leaves, and parsely stems. Add enough water to cover and bring to a rolling simmer. Cook for 2 hours, adding more water if needed to keep the beef submerged. Drain the corned beef, and slice across the grain.

Cabbage and Mushroom Pierogi (Pierogi z Kapusta i Grzybami)

These meatless pierogi are a Christmas tradition but they're delicious on any cold night; they can be served either boiled or fried.

For the filling

• 
  
  1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1 2-lb. bag refrigerated sauerkraut
  
  


• 
  
  1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped (1 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

For the dough

• 
  
  2 lb. (7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups warm water
  
  

Make the filling

Put the mushrooms in a small saucepan with 2 cups water and a pinch of salt; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook the mushrooms until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, lift the mushrooms out of the liquid, transfer to a cutting board, and chop them. Strain the liquid though a fine sieve lined with a damp paper towel set over a small bowl. Rinse and drain the sauerkraut in a colander, pressing on it to release as much liquid as possible.

Melt 1 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sauerkraut, mushrooms, and the mushroom cooking liquid. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has evaporated and the sauerkraut is dry, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and cook, stirring often, until the flavors are blended, about 2 minutes more. Let cool to room temperature before using.

Make the dough

Put the flour in a large bowl. Add the butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour until the mixture has the texture of coarse meal. Still using your fingers, add 1-3/4 cups of the warm water, stirring until the mixture begins to come together. If the mixture is dry, you can add up to 1/4 cup more warm water, a tablespoon at a time, until it forms a cohesive yet shaggy mass. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface, and then gently knead it just until soft and elastic; the dough will not be completely smooth, but it should be easy to shape, with a Play-Doh like consistency. Avoid overkneading, or the dough will become tough. (At this point you can proceed with the recipe or let the dough rest on a floured surface, covered with a clean dishtowel, for up to 1 hour.)

Roll and cut the dough

Divide the dough into 6 grapefruit-size balls (about 8 oz. each). Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured work surface, and keeping the others covered so they don’t dry out, roll the dough into a 10- to 11-inch wide, 1/8-inch-thick circle. Using a floured 3-inch round cookie cutter or inverted glass, cut out circles of dough. Transfer the dough circles to a large parchment-lined baking sheet dusted with flour. Dust with a little more flour and top with another sheet of parchment so they don’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the circles between sheets of floured parchment and re-rolling the scraps until all of the dough is used.

Fill the dough

Working with 1 dough circle at a time, brush off any excess flour and hold the circle in your palm. Spoon a scant 1 Tbs. of the filling into the center of the circle and fold it in half. Using your fingers, tightly pinch the edges together to seal and create a 1/2-inch border. Arrange the filled pierogi on a lightly floured surface or large rimmed baking sheet and dust very lightly with flour; loosely cover with plastic wrap or a clean dishtowel. Repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Cook the pierogi

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 175°F. Bring a 6- to 8-quart pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, drop the pierogi into the boiling water and give them a gentle stir so they don’t stick together or to the sides of the pot. When they float to the top 5 (after 1 to 2 minutes for room temperature pierogi, 3 to 4 minutes for refrigerated, and 7 to 10 minutes for frozen), use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a platter and keep warm in the oven while cooking the remaining batches.

Serve the pierogi

You can serve the pierogi either boiled or fried. For boiled pierogi, melt the butter in a 1- to 2-quart saucepan. Drizzle the pierogi with the melted butter. Serve hot with the sour cream on the side. For fried pierogi, melt 4 Tbs. of the butter in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 10 to 12, cook the boiled pierogi, flipping once, until golden-brown and crusty on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to another platter and keep warm in the oven. Repeat, adding more butter as needed. Serve the pierogi with sour cream on the side.

Shell Pasta with Green Beans and Cherry Tomatoes (Tofe con Fagiolini e Pomodorini)

What a great vegetarian dish—full of flavors, colors, and of course, most importantly, very simple to prepare. Even someone who loves meat will like this. Substitute the cherry tomatoes with sundried tomatoes, if you like, but make sure you don’t use buffalo mozzarella because it will break down and become too runny. 

• 
  
  4 quarts water
  
  


• 
  
  Salt and pepper to taste
  
  


• 
  
  18 oz. medium pasta shells (look for tofe, which are about the right size)
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/4 cups trimmed green snap beans, cut into quarters
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup fresh peas (if not in season use frozen ones)
  
  


• 
  
  8 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  
  


• 
  
  1-2/3 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
  
  


• 
  
  2 shallots, peeled and sliced into rings
  
  


• 
  
  2 fresh mozzarella balls, drained and cut into small cubes
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh marjoram or oregano leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino cheese
  
  

Measure the water into a large pot and bring to a boil with 2 Tbs. salt.

Cook the pasta with the beans and peas in the salted boiling water until al dente.

Drain the pasta, beans, and peas through a colander and rinse under cold running water immediately, to stop the pasta cooking. Once cold, let drain for 5 minutes. Drizzle with a little olive oil and give the pasta a good shake every minute or so.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, place the tomatoes, shallots, mozzarella, and marjoram or oregano. Pour over the extra virgin olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and mix together.
 

Add the pasta, beans, and peas to the bowl, sprinkle with the Pecorino cheese, and gently mix everything together to allow the flavors to combine.

Cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 15 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes.

Serve immediately or keep in a sealed container in the refrigerator for the day after. Don’t keep longer than 48 hours and always eat at room temperature.

Classic Pasta Carbonara

A great carbonara is about balancing the cheese, eggs, pork, and pasta. Because there are so few ingredients, it’s important that they be high quality to make this dish a stunner. The secret is tossing beaten eggs with hot pasta off the heat so that the eggs thicken into a velvety sauce without scrambling. Eat the pasta very hot, while the sauce is still smooth and creamy.

• 
  
  1 lb. dried spaghetti, linguine, or bucatini (preferably imported from Italy)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 lb. guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  3 large eggs, at room temperature
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 3-1/2 cups using a rasp grater)
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  

Bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 Tbs. salt and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directions, stirring often to prevent sticking. Reserve 1 cup of the water and then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, put the guanciale or pancetta and olive oil in a 12-inch heavy-duty skillet (not cast iron), and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown but not yet crisp, 3 to 5 minutes for guanciale; 5 to 7 minutes for pancetta (you don’t want to render all the fat). Remove the skillet from the heat. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs, Parmigiano, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper until well combined. Slowly whisk in 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water.

Immediately after draining the pasta, add it to the skillet and then quickly pour in the egg mixture, tossing continuously with tongs, until the pasta is well coated, 15 to 30 seconds. Add more of the reserved pasta cooking water if needed to achieve a creamy consistency.

Serve hot, sprinkled with additional black pepper to taste.

Quick Skillet Mac and Cheese

Who says you can’t have indulgent comfort food on a weeknight? Be sure to use a broiler-safe skillet, such as a cast-iron one.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  12 oz. dried spiral pasta, such as cavatappi, rotini, or double elbows
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
  
  


• 
  
  2 cups low-fat (2%) milk
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. grated Emmentaler (1-1/4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  4 oz. grated Gruyère (1-1/4 cups)
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Dijon mustard
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. dried thyme
  
  


• 
  
  Freshly ground black pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (3 cups)
  
  

Position a rack about 4 inches from the broiler and heat the broiler on high.


Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just tender. Drain well and set aside.


Meanwhile, melt the butter in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and continue whisking until well combined, about 15 seconds. Whisk in the milk and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the Emmentaler, Gruyère, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and thyme and whisk until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth, 2 minutes. Stir in the pasta to coat with the sauce. Off the heat, season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano evenly over the pasta.


Broil until the top is browned, 3 to 4 minutes, and serve.

Bangladeshi-Style Kitchri

Kitchri (also known as khichuri or kitcheree) is a homey, comforting, lightly spiced rice and lentil dish originally from India. The lentils—or dal—tend to melt into the rice, thickening the dish and adding wonderful earthy flavor. You can substitute yellow split peas for the lentils, if you like.

• 
  
  10 oz. (1-1/2 cups) brown basmati rice
  
  


• 
  
  5-1/2 oz. yellow or orange lentils (3/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  2 dried or fresh bay leaves
  
  


• 
  
  1 cinnamon stick
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 tsp. ground turmeric
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. unsalted butter
  
  


• 
  
  1-1/2 cups diced seedless cucumber
  
  


• 
  
  2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh mint
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped shallots plus 1 Tbs. minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
  
  


• 
  
  3 Tbs. peanut or vegetable oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 tsp. panch phoran (Bengali five-spice mix)
  
  


• 
  
  2 tsp. minced garlic
  
  


• 
  
  1 fresh serrano chile with seeds, minced
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
  
  

Put the rice in a medium bowl with enough cold water to cover by at least 1 inch. Set aside to soak at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.

While the rice is soaking, put the lentils in a bowl of cold water. Swish the lentils with your fingers, then pour the water off; repeat 2 more times to wash it well. Transfer the lentils to a 3-quart saucepan, add 1 quart of water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Skim off any foam, and then lower the heat to maintain a simmer. Add the bay leaves, cinnamon, and half of the turmeric and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender and the mixture is thick yet soupy, 25 to 35 minutes. If it seems dry, add a little hot water. Remove the bay leaves and cinnamon, and stir in 1 tsp. salt. Remove from the heat; set aside.

Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven (or other wide, heavy-duty pot). Stir in 2 tsp. salt and return to a boil. Drain the rice and sprinkle it into the pot. Return to a boil and cook until al dente, about 17 minutes. Drain, return the rice to the pot, and over low heat, stir in the butter. When melted, cover and cook until the rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, for about 15 minutes.

While the rice is cooking, in a medium bowl, stir together the cucumber, mint, minced shallot, lime juice, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Season to taste; set aside.

In a 14-inch wok or wide, heavy-duty 6-quart pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the remaining turmeric and the panch phoran and cook, stirring, until the mustard seeds in it have popped, about 30 seconds. Add the chopped shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned at the edges, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic, chile, and ginger and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Stir in the rice, breaking up any lumps so that the grains are coated in the flavored oil. Using a silicone spatula, gently fold the lentils, half of the cilantro, and 1 tsp. salt into the rice mixture until well blended. Gently stir until the mixture is heated through and any liquid from the lentils has been absorbed by the rice, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt, if necessary. Transfer to a large serving platter or a wide shallow bowl. Garnish with the remaining cilantro and serve with the cucumber salad.

Tamarind Date Chutney

Chutneys run the gamut from thin and smooth to thick and chunky. This smooth chutney, which balances the tartness of tamarind with the sweetness of dates, is a delicious accompaniment to the Salmon, Lentil, and Rice Kedgeree.

• 
  
  6 oz. tamarind pulp (from a block or shelled pods), cut into chunks
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups boiling water
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup chopped dates
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup dark brown sugar
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. finely grated fresh ginger
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. chili powder
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. cumin seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 tsp. coriander seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 tsp. fennel seeds, toasted and ground
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  

In a medium, nonreactive bowl, soak the tamarind pulp in the boiling water for about 20 minutes, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it becomes more pliable. Once softened, pour it into a medium-mesh sieve set over a 4-quart, nonreactive saucepan. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the pulp through the sieve until only seeds and fiber are left behind. Be sure to scrape any strained tamarind from the underside of the sieve into the pan. Discard the solids left in the sieve.


Add the dates and sugar to the tamarind and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and stir in the ginger, chili powder, cumin, coriander, and fennel. Simmer until the mixture has thickened slightly and the dates are soft, 15 to 20 minutes.


In a blender, purée the chutney until smooth. Let cool and then season to taste with salt (you may not need any, depending on the tamarind). Store the chutney in a jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature.

Pasta with Chickpeas, Sweet Peppers, and Rosemary

While the exact recipe changes with the region, this classic dish of chickpeas, pasta, and rosemary is served throughout central and southern Italy; a drizzle of aromatic rosemary-chile oil finishes the dish to delicious effect. If you don’t have a Parmigiano-Reggiano rind for making the sauce, shave some cheese over the pasta before serving.

• 
  
  6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  
  


• 
  
  1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary
  
  


• 
  
  1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  
  


• 
  
  2 medium cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium yellow bell pepper, cut into small dice (3/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  1 medium red bell pepper, cut into small dice (3/4 cup)
  
  


• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
  2-1/2 cups Chickpeas with Bay Leaves and Herbs, plus 1-1/4 cups reserved cooking liquid
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes
  
  


• 
  
  1 3- to 4-inch piece Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional)
  
  


• 
  
  1 lb. dried tubetti lisci, tubetti rigati, or pennette
  
  


• 
  
  Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings (optional)
  
  

Heat 3 Tbs. of the oil with the rosemary and red pepper flakes in a 1-quart saucepan over medium heat until shimmering, 1 to 2 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

Heat the remaining 3 Tbs. oil and the garlic in a 6-quart pot over medium heat, turning the garlic occasionally, until golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes; discard the garlic. Add the peppers and 1/2 tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and brown in spots, 6 to 8 minutes.

Add the chickpeas and, using the back of a spoon, gently mash some of them against the side of the pot. Stir in 3/4 cup of the cooking liquid, the tomatoes, cheese rind, if using, and 1/2 cup water. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the flavors have melded, about 20 minutes. (The sauce should be thin but have body. Add the remaining 1/2 cup cooking liquid as needed.)

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions. Reserve 2 cups of the pasta water and drain the pasta.

Add the pasta to the chickpea sauce and cook, tossing gently, until the flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Add pasta water as needed to keep the consistency loose. Season to taste with salt. Discard the cheese rind, if used. Serve drizzled with the rosemary oil and topped with Parmigiano shavings, if you like.

Orzo with Cherry Tomatoes, Gorgonzola, and Chives

The sweet tomatoes in this simple pasta salad are juxtaposed against pungent Gorgonzola cheese. Make it extra gorgeous by mixing several colors and shapes of cherry tomatoes.

• 
  
  Kosher salt
  
  


• 
  
   2-1/4 cups orzo
  
  


• 
  
  1/2 cup plus 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  1/3 cup sherry vinegar, more as needed
  
  


• 
  
  freshly ground pepper
  
  


• 
  
  3 cups halved cherry tomatoes (preferably a mix of colors and shapes)
  
  


• 
  
  1 cup crumbled Gorgonzola
  
  


• 
  
  3/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
  
  


• 
  
  1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
  
  

• 
  
  
  
  
  

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the orzo and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta and toss it immediately with 1 Tbs. of the olive oil. Let the pasta cool completely in the refrigerator.

Put the sherry vinegar in a small bowl and gradually whisk in the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil. Taste and season with salt, pepper, and additional sherry vinegar or olive oil as needed.

Put the cooked, cooled orzo in a large serving bowl. Add the cherry tomatoes, Gorgonzola, pine nuts, chives, and the vinaigrette and toss. Taste and season as needed with more salt and pepper. Serve within an hour or two of making.