Showing posts with label Stewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stewing. Show all posts

Monday, December 9, 2013

Spicy Pork Stew with Peppers and Potatoes

Chipotles and roasted sweet peppers give this zesty pork stew a Southwestern flavor.



  • 3 lb. boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. chipotles in adobo, minced




  • 1 tsp. cumin




  • 1/2 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1 cup beer (any kind)




  • 2-/12 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth




  • 2 cups peeled diced white potatoes (1-inch dice)




  • 2 cups halved or quartered shallots (leave whole if small)




  • 2 cups chopped roasted, peeled red peppers (1-inch pieces)




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the pork on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of pork with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the pork to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the pork, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the pork is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chipotles, cumin, and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the beer, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the pork to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 30 minutes of stewing, add the potatoes and shallots to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the peppers. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the pork is fork-tender, 1/2 to 1 hour more.


Stir in the cilantro. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Pet Pha Lo (Stewed Duck) with Chile Dipping Sauce

Thai soy sauces have a flavor that’s distinct from Chinese or Japanese sauces, and are an important element in this slow-cooked duck dish. Chef Ricker uses both thin or “white” soy sauce, which is light and transparent, and the thicker, stronger black variety.
For the pet pha lo




  • 1 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms




  • 1 cup Thai thin white soy sauce




  • Scant 1/3 cup Thai black soy sauce




  • 2 oz. rock sugar or granulated sugar (scant 1/3 cup)




  • 4 stalks lemongrass, bottoms and top 4 inches trimmed, outer layers discarded, and smashed with side of a chef's knife






  • 1 stalk celery, trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths




  • 1 oz. ginger, peeled and thinly sliced




  • 1 Tbs. cilantro stems, smashed with side of a chef's knife




  • 1 Tbs. black peppercorns




  • 1-1/2-inch piece cinnamon




  • 1 star anise




  • 4 bay leaves




  • 2 lb. duck legs (about 4), skin removed; rinsed in cold water



For the chile dipping sauce




  • 3 oz. mild fresh yellow chiles, such as Fresnos, gueros, or Hungarian wax peppers, seeded and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices (about 1 cup)




  • 1 tsp. thinly sliced cilantro stems




  • Kosher salt




  • 5 cloves garlic, peeled and halved lengthwise




  • 1 cup white vinegar




  • 2 Tbs. granulated sugar




Make the pet pha lo

Put the shiitakes in a medium heatproof bowl and cover with 2 cups of boiling water. Soak until very soft, about 1 hour. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mushrooms to a 5-1/2- to 6-quart pot. Slowly pour the soaking liquid through a fine sieve into the pot leaving any silt in the bowl.


Add 5 cups water, both soy sauces, the sugar, lemongrass, celery, ginger, cilantro, peppercorns, cinnamon, star anise, and bay leaves to the pot and stir to blend. Add the duck legs and bring to a simmer. Lower the heat, cover, and cook until the meat comes off the bone very easily with a tug of tongs but isn’t dry or falling off the bone, about 2 hours.



Make the chile dipping sauce

Have ready a medium bowl of ice and water. Bring a 3-quart pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chiles and cook just until they have lost their raw texture and flavor, about 45 seconds. Drain, transfer to the ice water to cool completely, and drain again.


Pound the cilantro stems and 1-1/2 tsp. salt in a mortar and pestle to a coarse paste, about 15 seconds. Add the garlic and pound until blended, and then add the chiles and pound until you have a coarse paste, about 1 minute. Stir in the vinegar and sugar until the sugar is fully dissolved. (Alternatively, you can make the sauce in a food processor.) Transfer the sauce to a medium bowl and set aside.


Remove the duck legs from the pot. Reserve the cooking liquid, if desired, for another use. Serve the duck legs with the dipping sauce.


Irish Stew

I've eaten Irish stew in private homes and public eating places all over Ireland, north and south, probably twenty-five or thirty examples in all, and no two have been alike. Along the way, I've come to believe that the construction of this dish should adhere to a few simple guidelines: 1. Use the best quality lamb you can find, but use the less expensive, more flavorful cuts. 2. Keep it simple: the world won't end if you add carrots or fresh thyme, but don't throw too many different things in the pot. 3. Cook it very slowly; an old adage has it that "a stew boiled is a stew spoiled." 4. Always make the stew the day before you serve it; a night in the refrigerator really will improve it. 5. The finished product should be thick enough that you can stand a spoon in it.



  • 3 lb. mutton or lamb from the neck or shoulder, trimmed and cut into cubes




  • 2 lb. russet potatoes, thickly sliced




  • 1/2 bunch parsley, trimmed and finely chopped




  • 1 lb. onions, thinly sliced




  • Salt and pepper




Preheat the oven to 250°F.


Put the lamb, potatoes, parsley, and onions into a heavy casserole with a lid and season with salt and pepper. (Or layer the ingredients, starting and ending with a layer of potatoes, and seasoning each layer to taste).


Add 2 cups of water or enough to barely cover the ingredients. Bring to a simmer over low heat (do not boil), then cover and put into the oven. Cook for 2-1/2 to 3 hours or until the meat is very tender and the stew is thick, adding a little water if the stew dries out too much.







Beef Stew with Root Vegetables and Horseradish

This classic beef stew is loaded with carrots, parsnips, and potatoes, and gets a little zing from horseradish and parsley.



  • 3 lb. boneless beef shoulder roast, chuck roast, or top blade, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces




  • 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 3 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. minced fresh sage




  • 1 cup dry red wine




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth




  • 2 cups parsnip pieces (halve lengthwise, core, and cut into 1-inch pieces)




  • 2 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)




  • 2 cups halved small red potatoes




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • 2 Tbs. drained prepared horseradish




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the beef on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.


Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the beef with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the beef to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the beef, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the beef is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sage and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.


Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes.


Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the beef to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the parsnips, carrot pieces, and potatoes to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the beef is fork-tender, 1 to 2 hours more. (Shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts.)


Stir in the parsley and horseradish. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.



  • 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces




  • 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme




  • 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram




  • 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest




  • 2 dried bay leaves




  • 1 cup sweet vermouth




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth




  • 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)




  • 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)




  • 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.


Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.


Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).


Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Goat Mole Rojo

Red mole is not necessarily as complex as the black stuff--no chocolate and no blend of chiles--but it's also made with oregano and thyme for a more herbaceous finish.



  • 6 ancho or dried New Mexico red chiles, stemmed and seeded




  • Boiling water




  • 1/4 cup rendered bacon fat




  • 1 small yellow onion, chopped




  • 4 medium garlic cloves, chopped




  • 1-1/2 lb. boneless goat stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes




  • 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce




  • 1 tsp. dried thyme




  • 1 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1/2 tsp. ground cloves




  • 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper




  • 1 bay leaf




  • 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth




  • 1 Tbs. red wine vinegar




  • 2 ripe plantains, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces





Tear the chiles into large pieces, then cook them in a dry skillet set over medium heat until lightly browned and very aromatic. Transfer them to a large bowl, cover with boiling water, and set aside for 20 minutes.


Meanwhile, melt 2 Tbs. of the bacon fat in a large Dutch or French oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until wilted, about 3 minutes.


Push the onion and garlic to the sides of the pot, then add the meat chunks in batches, browning them well in the residual fat. As they brown, transfer them to a plate and add more until all are nicely done.


Take the pot off the heat. Scoop out the onion and garlic and place them in a blender or in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Drain the chiles in a colander set in the sink, then add them to the blender or food processor. Also add the Worcestershire sauce, thyme, oregano, cloves, pepper, and bay leaf. Blend or puree until smooth.


Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. bacon fat in the pot set back over medium heat. Scrape the chile paste into it and fry for 3 minutes, stirring almost constantly.


Return the meat and any juices on the plate to the pot. Also add the broth and vinegar. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally; then cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.


Add the plantains to the pot and continue cooking, stirring once in a while, until the meat is falling-apart tender, 1 to 1-1/2 additional hours.







Veal Stew with Bacon and Winter Vegetables

This hearty stew is the perfect dinner for a cold winter's night. Bacon adds a touch of smoky flavor to the mild, tender veal.



  • 3 lb. boneless veal shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 2 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces




  • 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme




  • 1 tsp. minced fresh marjoram




  • 2 1-inch wide strips orange zest




  • 2 dried bay leaves




  • 1 cup sweet vermouth




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth




  • 3 cups diced celery root (1-inch dice)




  • 3 cups carrot pieces (1-inch pieces)




  • 2 Tbs. coarse-grained mustard




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the veal on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the bacon in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.


Heat the bacon fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the veal with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the veal to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the veal, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the veal is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, marjoram, orange zest, and bay leaves and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the bacon to the pot.


Add the vermouth, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the veal to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 30 minutes of stewing, add the celery root and carrot pieces to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the veal is fork-tender, 1 to 1-1/2 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).


Stir in the mustard. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Brazilian Chicken & Shrimp Stew (Xim-Xim)

This is my take on xim-xim, a traditional stew from Brazil by way of West Africa. Xim-xim relies on a specific set of ingredients: dendê oil (the Brazilian name for palm oil), coconut milk, and nuts. You can substitute olive oil for the dendê oil. For more information on these authentic Brazilian ingredients, check out our ingredient profiles.



  • 3 cloves garlic




  • Kosher salt




  • 1 large white or yellow onion, coarsely chopped (3 cups)




  • 2 large ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (1 cup)




  • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves plus 1/2 cup whole leaves for garnish




  • 1/4 cup fresh lime juice




  • 4 fresh Thai bird chiles, coarsely chopped, or jarred malagueta peppers, drained




  • 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger




  • Freshly ground black pepper




  • 4 bone-in, skinless chicken thighs (1-1/2 lb.)




  • 1 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), shelled and deveined




  • 2 Tbs. plus 1/3 cup lightly salted cashews, toasted




  • 3 Tbs. olive oil or well-shaken dendê and soy oil blend




  • 3/4 cup well-stirred canned coconut milk




  • Hot cooked white rice for serving





Peel and chop the garlic. Sprinkle with 1 tsp. salt, and with the side of a heavy chef’s knife, mash to a paste. Transfer to a food processor and add the onion, tomatoes, chopped cilantro stems and leaves, lime juice, chiles, ginger, and 1/4 tsp. black pepper. Pulse until finely chopped and almost smooth. Put the chicken and shrimp in a large bowl, add the onion mixture, and turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.


Meanwhile, pulse 2 Tbs. of the cashews in a spice grinder just until finely ground; do not let them form a paste.


Remove the chicken from the marinade, brushing excess marinade back into the bowl. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Season on both sides with 1/4 tsp. salt. Heat 2 Tbs. of the olive or dendê oil in a 5- to 6-quart Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning once, until very lightly browned on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the thighs to a plate as they are browned.


Remove the shrimp from the marinade and set them aside. Put the marinade in the Dutch oven, add the coconut milk and ground cashews, and cook over medium heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan, for 3 minutes to cook off the raw onion flavor.


Return the chicken to the Dutch oven, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally and turning the chicken halfway through cooking, until the chicken is tender and cooked through, about 25 minutes total.


Increase the heat to medium, stir in the shrimp, and cook, stirring constantly, just until the shrimp are bright pink and nearly opaque throughout, 2 to 3 minutes; they will continue to cook after they’re removed from the heat. Off the heat, stir in half the remaining cashews and half the whole cilantro leaves. Season to taste with salt.


Transfer the chicken to a large deep platter and pour the shrimp and sauce over it. Drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. dendê or olive oil, top with the remaining cashews and cilantro leaves, and serve hot with the white rice.


Spicy Pork Stew with Peppers and Potatoes

Chipotles and roasted sweet peppers give this zesty pork stew a Southwestern flavor.



  • 3 lb. boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. chipotles in adobo, minced




  • 1 tsp. cumin




  • 1/2 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1 cup beer (any kind)




  • 2-/12 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought chicken broth




  • 2 cups peeled diced white potatoes (1-inch dice)




  • 2 cups halved or quartered shallots (leave whole if small)




  • 2 cups chopped roasted, peeled red peppers (1-inch pieces)




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the pork on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of pork with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the pork to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the pork, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the pork is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chipotles, cumin, and oregano and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the beer, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the pork to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 30 minutes of stewing, add the potatoes and shallots to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the peppers. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the pork is fork-tender, 1/2 to 1 hour more.


Stir in the cilantro. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Moroccan Lamb Stew

Green olives and preserved lemon give this Moroccan-influenced stew a tart-salty counterpoint to the sweet chunks of butternut squash.



  • 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 1 tsp. caraway seeds




  • 1/4 tsp. cayenne




  • 1 cup dry white wine




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth




  • 2 cups onion wedges (3/4-inch wedges)




  • 2 cups diced butternut squash (1-inch dice)




  • 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed




  • 1/2 cup halved pitted green olives




  • 1/4 cup chopped preserved lemon




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 3 Tbs. oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, caraway, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the onion wedges to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the squash. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hours more. (Shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts.)


Stir in the chickpeas. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. Stir in the olives, preserved lemon, and parsley. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.
For the poached drumsticks




  • 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed




  • 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves




  • 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic




  • 6 whole allspice berries




  • 4 fresh or dried bay leaves




  • 2 tsp. cumin seeds




  • 2 tsp. black peppercorns




  • 2 tsp. coriander seeds




  • 2 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1 tsp. fennel or aniseed




  • One 4-inch cinnamon stick




  • 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)



For the mole sauce




  • 3 ancho chiles




  • 3 mulato chiles




  • 3 guajillo chiles




  • 1/3 cup raisins




  • 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds




  • 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen




  • 2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips




  • 1 cup chopped yellow onion




  • 2 medium cloves garlic




  • 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican




  • 1/2 tsp. ground cumin




  • 1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed




  • 1/8 tsp. ground allspice




  • 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon




  • Pinch of ground cloves




  • 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds




Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.



Make the mole sauce


Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.


Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.


Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.


Goat Mole Rojo

Red mole is not necessarily as complex as the black stuff--no chocolate and no blend of chiles--but it's also made with oregano and thyme for a more herbaceous finish.



  • 6 ancho or dried New Mexico red chiles, stemmed and seeded




  • Boiling water




  • 1/4 cup rendered bacon fat




  • 1 small yellow onion, chopped




  • 4 medium garlic cloves, chopped




  • 1-1/2 lb. boneless goat stew meat, cut into 1-inch cubes




  • 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce




  • 1 tsp. dried thyme




  • 1 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1/2 tsp. ground cloves




  • 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper




  • 1 bay leaf




  • 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth




  • 1 Tbs. red wine vinegar




  • 2 ripe plantains, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces





Tear the chiles into large pieces, then cook them in a dry skillet set over medium heat until lightly browned and very aromatic. Transfer them to a large bowl, cover with boiling water, and set aside for 20 minutes.


Meanwhile, melt 2 Tbs. of the bacon fat in a large Dutch or French oven over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until wilted, about 3 minutes.


Push the onion and garlic to the sides of the pot, then add the meat chunks in batches, browning them well in the residual fat. As they brown, transfer them to a plate and add more until all are nicely done.


Take the pot off the heat. Scoop out the onion and garlic and place them in a blender or in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Drain the chiles in a colander set in the sink, then add them to the blender or food processor. Also add the Worcestershire sauce, thyme, oregano, cloves, pepper, and bay leaf. Blend or puree until smooth.


Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. bacon fat in the pot set back over medium heat. Scrape the chile paste into it and fry for 3 minutes, stirring almost constantly.


Return the meat and any juices on the plate to the pot. Also add the broth and vinegar. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally; then cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.


Add the plantains to the pot and continue cooking, stirring once in a while, until the meat is falling-apart tender, 1 to 1-1/2 additional hours.







Lamb and Prune Stew

Prunes and carrots lend sweetness to this stew, enhanced by warm spices like ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric which make it reminiscent of North African tagines.



  • 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 1 to 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger




  • 1 tsp. ground cumin




  • 1 tsp. ground turmeric




  • 1 tsp. ground cinnamon




  • 1 cup hard cider




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth




  • 2-1/2 cups peeled pearl onions




  • 2-1/2 cups 1-inch carrot pieces




  • 1 cup prunes, cut into bite-size pieces




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the yellow onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the ginger, cumin, turmeric, and cinnamon and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the cider, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the pearl onions, carrot pieces, and prunes to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).


Stir in the parsley and lemon juice. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Italian-Style Beef and Porcini Stew

The mushroom-infused broth from soaking dried porcini is incorporated into this hearty beef stew for more of that earthy flavor. Serve with crusty Italian bread for mopping up every last bit of broth.



  • 3 lb. boneless beef shoulder roast, chuck roast, or top blade, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 2 oz. thick-cut pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces




  • 1 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 4 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 2-1/2 cups warm water until soft, then chopped, soaking liquid reserved and strained




  • 1 Tbs. minced fresh rosemary




  • 1 dried bay leaf




  • 1 cup dry red wine




  • 3 cups peeled pearl onions




  • 1 28-oz. can whole tomatoes, drained and chopped (discard juice)




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the beef on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, cook the pancetta in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned but not crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the pan.


Heat the pancetta fat over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the beef with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the beef to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the beef, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the beef is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the yellow onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, soaked porcini, rosemary, and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Return the pancetta to the pot.


Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom soaking liquid. Bring to a boil.


Return the beef to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the pearl onions to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the tomatoes. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the beef is fork-tender.


Stir in the basil. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Lamb and Prune Stew

Prunes and carrots lend sweetness to this stew, enhanced by warm spices like ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric which make it reminiscent of North African tagines.



  • 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 1 to 2 Tbs. minced fresh ginger




  • 1 tsp. ground cumin




  • 1 tsp. ground turmeric




  • 1 tsp. ground cinnamon




  • 1 cup hard cider




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth




  • 2-1/2 cups peeled pearl onions




  • 2-1/2 cups 1-inch carrot pieces




  • 1 cup prunes, cut into bite-size pieces




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




  • 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of the lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the yellow onion, celery, and coarsely chopped carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the ginger, cumin, turmeric, and cinnamon and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the cider, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the pearl onions, carrot pieces, and prunes to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hours more (shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts).


Stir in the parsley and lemon juice. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Moroccan Lamb Stew

Green olives and preserved lemon give this Moroccan-influenced stew a tart-salty counterpoint to the sweet chunks of butternut squash.



  • 3 lb. boneless lamb shoulder or leg, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-1/2- to 2-inch pieces




  • 3 Tbs. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil; more as needed




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper




  • 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)




  • 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)




  • 2 medium cloves garlic, minced




  • 1 Tbs. tomato paste




  • 1 tsp. caraway seeds




  • 1/4 tsp. cayenne




  • 1 cup dry white wine




  • 2-1/2 cups homemade or lower-salt store-bought beef broth




  • 2 cups onion wedges (3/4-inch wedges)




  • 2 cups diced butternut squash (1-inch dice)




  • 1 15-oz. can chickpeas, drained and rinsed




  • 1/2 cup halved pitted green olives




  • 1/4 cup chopped preserved lemon




  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley




Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F.


Spread the lamb on paper towels to dry for 10 to 20 minutes before browning. (You can use this time to chop the onion, celery, and carrot). If the meat is very wet, pat it dry.


In a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat 3 Tbs. oil over medium to medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Season about one-third of lamb with salt and pepper and arrange it in a single layer in the pot (there should be at least 1/2 inch of space between the pieces). Brown well on at least 4 sides, adjusting the heat as necessary; each batch should take about 10 minutes to brown. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl or rimmed baking sheet as it browns and repeat with the rest of the lamb, seasoning with salt and pepper before browning. Once all of the lamb is browned, remove the pot from the heat to let it cool for a few minutes.


Pour all but 2 Tbs. of the fat from the pot. (If there is not enough, add oil to equal 2 Tbs.) Return the pot to medium heat, then add the onion, celery, and carrot. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often and scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spatula, until the vegetables begin to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, caraway, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.


Add the wine, stirring with the wooden spatula to dissolve any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and boil to reduce by about half, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the beef broth and 1-1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil.


Return the lamb to the pot along with any accumulated juice. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer.


Crumple a 12x16-inch piece of parchment, then flatten it out. (Crumpling makes for easy handling.) Place the parchment directly on the surface of the stew, allowing the ends to come up the sides of the pot. Cover and put in the oven.


After 1 hour of stewing, add the onion wedges to the pot. Cover with the parchment and lid, return to the oven. After another 30 minutes, add the squash. Cover with the parchment and lid, return the pot to the oven, and cook until the lamb is fork-tender, 3/4 to 1-1/4 hours more. (Shoulder cuts will take longer than leg cuts.)


Stir in the chickpeas. Return to the oven for 5 minutes. Stir in the olives, preserved lemon, and parsley. Degrease the stew by laying a clean paper towel over the surface of the stew and gently pushing it into all the bumps and dips, then quickly peeling it off. Repeat as necessary with more paper towels. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Mexican Turkey Drumstick Mole

In this classic Mexican stew, turkey legs are poached until falling-apart tender, then the meat is teased off the bones and simmered in the rich, spicy sauce flavored with bittersweet chocolate, ground almonds, and three varieties of dried Mexican chiles.
For the poached drumsticks




  • 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth; more as needed




  • 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and each studded with 4 whole cloves




  • 6 medium unpeeled cloves garlic




  • 6 whole allspice berries




  • 4 fresh or dried bay leaves




  • 2 tsp. cumin seeds




  • 2 tsp. black peppercorns




  • 2 tsp. coriander seeds




  • 2 tsp. dried oregano




  • 1 tsp. fennel or aniseed




  • One 4-inch cinnamon stick




  • 4 large turkey drumsticks (about 3 lb. total)



For the mole sauce




  • 3 ancho chiles




  • 3 mulato chiles




  • 3 guajillo chiles




  • 1/3 cup raisins




  • 3/4 cup whole toasted almonds




  • 2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped (about 1/2 cup)




  • 3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded (about 1 cup), or 1 cup canned seeded tomatoes, preferably Muir Glen




  • 2 corn tortillas, cut into 6-inch strips




  • 1 cup chopped yellow onion




  • 2 medium cloves garlic




  • 1 tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican




  • 1/2 tsp. ground cumin




  • 1/2 tsp. ground fennel or aniseed




  • 1/8 tsp. ground allspice




  • 1/8 tsp. ground cinnamon




  • Pinch of ground cloves




  • 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil




  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds




Poach the drumsticks

In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, combine the broth, onions, garlic, and spices. Add the drumsticks and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the meat is tender, about 1-1/2 hours. During cooking, add broth as needed to keep the drumsticks submerged, and turn them over from time to time. Transfer the drumsticks to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Strain the broth and save. Discard any solids.


When the legs are cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat from the bones and remove any sinews. Leave the meat in the largest chunks possible and set aside in a large bowl.



Make the mole sauce


Tear the chiles into large pieces, discarding the stems and seeds.


In a large (12-inch), dry, heavy-duty skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles, turning them frequently, for 10 to 15 seconds. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, add the raisins, cover with 3 cups boiling water, and soak for at least 30 minutes or until soft.


Drain the chiles and raisins. Set aside 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid and combine the remaining liquid with the turkey broth.


Put the almonds and chocolate in a food processor and pulse several times to finely grind them. Add the chiles and raisins, the reserved 1/2 cup of chile liquid, and the tomatoes, tortillas, onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, fennel, allspice, cinnamon, and cloves. Process until smooth.


In a large (8-quart) Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until it darkens and becomes quite thick, about 8 minutes. Add 4 cups of the turkey broth and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick but still pourable, about 40 minutes. Add more turkey broth if it becomes too thick.


Stir in the turkey meat and cook for 10 minutes over low heat so the turkey can absorb the flavors of the mole sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the turkey and sauce into a shallow serving bowl and sprinkle with the toasted sesame seeds.


Cane Vinegar Chicken Stew with Pearl Onions, Oranges, and Spinach

Hugh Acheson likes to combine classic French techniques with all things southern. Cane vinegar, which is made from sugar cane, is one of his favorite pantry ingredients for adding a malty, sweet-and-sour tang. If you can’t find cane vinegar, you can substitute malt or cider vinegar.



  • 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (2-1/2 to 3 lb. total)




  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper




  • 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter




  • 3/4 lb. fresh pearl onions, peeled 




  • 6 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced




  • 1/2 tsp. smoked sweet paprika (pimentón)




  • 1-1/2 cups cane vinegar




  • 1-1/2 cups lower-salt chicken broth




  • 4 large navel oranges




  • 6 oz. fresh spinach, stemmed (4 cups)




  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint




Season the chicken on both sides with 1-1/2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper.


Melt the butter in an 8-quart Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot over medium heat. Working in 2 batches, cook the thighs until golden on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.


Add the onions, garlic, and paprika to the pot and cook until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium high and simmer until the vinegar is reduced by half, 7 to 10 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the broth. When the liquid comes to a boil, add the chicken to the pot skin side up, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 30 minutes.


Meanwhile, slice the peel off the oranges. Working over a medium bowl to catch the juice, cut the segments free from the membranes. Squeeze any remaining juice from the membranes into the bowl.


When the chicken is done, add the orange segments and juice, spinach, and mint to the pot, gently stirring them into the sauce. Divide the chicken and sauce among 4 bowls. Serve immediately.